While most certainly not what its label would lead one to believe, Pure Oud does enter on a rather enjoyable oudh reconstruction. In its general style the opening parallels Francis Kurkdjian’s fine Oud Cashmere Mood and Oud Velvet Mood, with which Pure Oud shares several listed notes. The oudh accord here is initially complex – both medicinal and animalic. Saffron and cypriol emphasize the smoky, medicinal aspect of the oudh, while myrrh adds depth and roundness.
Where Pure Oud falls down is in what I tend to think of as the “mechanics”: sillage and projection are both limited, and lasting power is only moderate. I can see the resentment at having to reapply a scent in this one’s price range after only a few hours. The drydown, I must admit, is also something of a disappointment: the oudh accord unravels into a relatively bare ensemble of woody notes.
To its credit, and unlike so many current oudh-themed fragrances, Pure Oud does not lean heavily on rose, and thus has a more individual profile than a number of its niche competitors. Still, at these prices, one has the right to expect more - and can get it, too, from Kurkdjian’s aforementioned Oud Cashmere Mood and Oud Velvet Mood, both of which trump Pure Oud in terms of projection, tenacity, and sustained compositional depth.
A pure "representation" of oud, where "pure" means the fact this oud-like main accord is linear and straigthtforward. Of course there is no literal purity as regards of the materials – this stands to pure oud oils like PU leather stands to cows. Anyway, a dry and solitary oud note, a material I do not love that much especially when used in a "prominent" way, mostly because it smells a bit boring to me. The smell here is that canonical burnt-tires rubbery feel of agar wood, rounded by vanilla and amber and softened by a subtle yet detectable floral accord, with a slight earthy/balsamic base and a leathery feel. A crowdpleaser for me, as it smells quite pleasant and refined, no obscure decadence, rotting notes or other "pure oud" notes. This does not mean Pure Oud is a bad scent, just perhaps a bit dull and trendy: it is austere, soft, elegant, and delivers just a hint of "fashion magazines-inspired" oud mysticism and darkness without smelling unpleasant or challenging - that sort of glossy, trendy, safe "elegance" that links together most of Kilian scents in my opinion. Mellow drydown. A bit light and pretentious as all other Kilian scents, which to me lack quite much in depth, taste, projection and persistence. One of those scents which may be a nice purchase in case of hard bargains/last-chance sales.
Horrible. Smelled like a tar oud combo. Made me gag.
Sawdust and oud, this is warmer than some ouds, and not medicinal. There is a peppery note that helps, but this is rather forgettable among a large assortment of ouds.
It's like someone sat down with a pad and pencil, wrote down that they wanted 25% of this and 25% of that and 25% of something else, got somehow distracted elsewhere, mailed away the formula, and never realized that the numbers didn't all add up to 100!
Even though this is called "Pure Oud," don't let that deceive you into expecting Oud. Although you're expected to pay through the nose, your friend in the middle of your face will never be particularly exhilarated by this pleasant but painless fragrance...
At the end of the day, I just can't get over the name. It's deceiving. I will repeat, it's deceptive. Manipulating and disappointing. All because of the name. It is neither Pure nor Oud. There is no purity. There is no Oud. There is, however, attention spent toward placing a focus on Oud, but it is not prominent, and it doesn't justify the hefty expense.
If you're a salesperson and someone who has never smelt Oud (but has read lots of reviews) approaches you asking for a recommendation -- I can imagine endorsing this if you work on commission, but I would never suggest this to a friend, and I would never pay full-price on a bottle for myself, and even if I received it as a gift, I would never wear it often enough to justify keeping it amongst my few preferred possessions.