Lumière Noire pour Femme (2009)
    by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

    Average Rating: 4

    Based on 53 ratings
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    Lumière Noire pour Femme Fragrance notes

    Spiced rose, Patchouli, Narcissus

    Lumière Noire pour Femme information

    Lumière Noire pour Femme is a women's fragrance by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. The scent was launched in 2009

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    70ml EdP

    Reviews of Lumière Noire pour Femme

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    Showing 1 to 6 of 11 reviews.

    gimmegreen's avatar

    Netherlands Netherlands

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    Lumiere Noire initially promises something rich and sumptuous in the Amouage mode which is a new place for Kurkdjian to be going – his perfumes are, if nothing else, sleek as whippets. It’s the central theme of a rose ripened by patchouli paired with the greasy fullness of a quite natural smelling narcissus. Rose and narcissus aren’t blooms that pair particularly well if both are quite strong in the mix, and here it’s that central oddness of their attempted union that is beguiling. At times the juxtaposition inflects the scent towards a ripe berry smell.
    However, with a little time the initial sumptuousness thins out considerably. If one were to unfairly compare the setting of the narcissus here to the many layered bed it is lain upon in a creation such as Chamade, it’s a bit like a flickering candle beside a blazing sun. Underlying the florals, is the familiar skin-like odour that is a Kurkdjian signature along with a modest sprinkle of cumin.
    Ultimately, while Lumiere Noire pour homme plays up its rose-on-aldehydic-roller-skates central theme to divine effect, Lumiere Noir pour femme dwindles somewhat in the wear after a bold opening fanfare. It’s still a pleasing perfume, just not Lumiere Noir pour homme’s equal.

    07th August, 2014

    Way Off Scenter's avatar

    United States United States

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    Genre: Chypre

    Like its companion scent Lumière Noire pour Homme, his work for Parfums MDCI, and Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile, Lumière Noire pour Femme shows off perfumer Francis Kurkdjian’s talent for crafting ambitious, classically inspired compositions without slipping into historical pastiche. In this case the stylistic landmark is a grand, spicy, aldehydic rose against a gamy animalic chypre background, making Lumière Noire a distant cousin to rose chypres like Knowing and Paris - perhaps by way of the more fruity and obviously animalic Amouage Lyric Woman.

    Like its forebears, Lumière Noire pour Elle is an elaborate and generously scaled composition, but it displays none of the dense, opaque quality that makes the roses of the 1980s so challenging to wear today. Instead it feels as if a lantern has been set inside the old rose chypre structure, lending a diffuse brightness and revealing internal contrasts against its soft glow. How Kurkdjian accomplishes this I do not know, but I will say that here, as in Enlévement au Sérail and Promesse de l’Aube, this treatment rejuvenates and revitalizes a long-established genre.

    Lumière Noire’s rich, sweet-tart fruity top notes possess a wine-like overtone that persists into its rose centered heart. The rose is redolent not only of fermenting fruit, but spice and wood as well, in a manner reminiscent of the woody, fruity rose in Femenité du Bois, with which it shares a paradoxical sense of translucency and darkness. Prominent but unobtrusive cumin contributes the same kind of knowing, animalic sensuality it does in scents like Eau d’Hermès, Rochas Femme, and Gucci Eau de Parfum, though its subtle, unobtrusive application Lunière Noire is more in accord with the Gucci than the Hermès or Rochas. The animalic overtone finds reinforcement in an earthy, green narcissus note that sidles up next to the central rose, then extends into the warm patchouli-laden drydown. Lumière Noire is potent and lasting, though again without the often overwhelming power of a Knowing or a Paris. A beautifully constructed, noble, yet suggestive scent that can stand proudly beside the masculine version.

    19th June, 2014

    Colin Maillard's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Aldehydes, rose, woods, a slightly animalic base with vanilla and a castoreum-like note. All the richness and the dark, "opulently French" sensuality of Kurkdjian are here, a stereo triumph of sweet, musky and powdery notes. Basically Lumière Noire Pour Femme is a great contemporary chypre that harmonically blends a metallic transparent dustiness with the classic dark/animalic structure of the golden age of Germaine Cellier and Guerlain. Woody notes and perhaps a hint leather (or maybe oud). I did like Lumière Noire Pour Homme and I like this feminine version as well, but I share here the same feeling I had for the masculine counterpart: the feeling of something which "may have been" better than this, of some true goodness "on a leash", restrained, with a glossy layer of inoffensiveness and wearability enough to make this appealing to a broader audience. It's gloomy and sensual just like a glossy, well-designed fashion photoshooting. Civilized and forced to behave straight like rebel rockstars at official galas and ceremonies. This scent is undoubtedly well composed and well made, all smells great, and it has Kurkdjian's signature baroque "richness", a great blend of musky dark notes with powdery/creamy ones which smells quite like nothing else, or better said, like a tribute to French classic perfumery still with something contemporary (perhaps it's just the materials). Still you feel that this smells like the civilized, washed-down and "refined" version of something which must probably smell far more better than this. And as I wrote for the masculine one, I'd love to hear that – an "uncensored" version of it. Well however apart from that, which may be just my fantasy, this is a very good half crowd-pleasing half-niche scent.


    30th May, 2014

    flathorn's avatar

    United States United States

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    I smell the vestiges and promise of a sexy patchouli rose with an earthy narcissus, but it is all edged with a slight dark berry fruit note that turns kind of burnt. I'm familiar with this note, as I often run afoul of it. In the case of Lumiere Noire it's influence is small, probably because it's not a large component, but it still renders the fragrance unwearable.

    05th January, 2014

    cheryl's avatar

    Canada Canada

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    romantic rose

    I forgot I had a sample of this, but when I discovered this I was enraptured. It's a gorgeous uplifting rose...and I have been on a rose quest for years now. A smite of patchouli opens it and anchors it down..and then there is an overlay of fresh dewiness..of petals or warm clean skin. A very human rose.

    I don't really know how this would play on a man's skin..but I'd certainly be interested in that figure. This evokes a poet type...waves and curls in his hair, billowy white get the idea.....the scent is somehow pure and complex. I'm very besotted with this one.

    Pros: beautiful rose, light muskiness

    25th August, 2013

    Darvant's avatar

    Italy Italy

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    Few components for a great new classic floral with a plenty of mystery and balance. The rose is austere and well combined with a nocturnal note of narcissus that spaces out the austerity of the rose with more indolic/penetrating floral sparks. The note of patchouli is the spicy backbone of the composition around which the spicy/floral components circulate in a cryptic valzer of classicism and refinement. The spices are pungent and sweet while some secret ripe fruity component is possibly hidden somewhere. A great, deep, rich, full bodied rose coming out articulated, spicy/floral, dusty (pepper, ambergris?), more than vaguely baroque, slightly soapy/waxy and adumbrated (by rooty/spicy elements).

    Lumiere Noir Pour Femme is a recent revisitation (in to a modern, brighter, more musky, finally somewhat minimalistic key) of an ultra-classic aldehydic (slightly animalic) floral chypre formula proudly represented in the past by creations a la Mitsouko, L'Air du Temps, La Perla, Narcisse Noir, First, Knowing, Miss Dior or Rive Gauche. F. Kurkdjian manages in its creation to "depurate" a basic classic structure by several "reduntant" notes (probably just in accordance with the current "exigences") in order to perform a perfectly measured and dynamic musky-animalic radiant floral full of chic radiancy and sensuality. At the beginning (yes so aldehydic, freshly spicy-fruity, slightly angular, soon decidedly rosey, earthy, hesperidic and in a while such almost freshly creamy-spicy) is so easy to detect the Montale Black Aoud-Malle Portrait of a Lady's musky-spicy-resinous intoxicating rose/patchouli accord which appears so soon decidedly classic and articulated (yes, angular, dusty, hesperidic, vaguely stuffy-floral/retro and woody). The rose in this case appears dominant but surrounded by undiscerned velvety floral intense patterns and by a valzer of ephemeral classic-vintage (animalic chypre) molecules. Anyway this aldehydic heady rose is never effectively too much solitary, typical, Victorian and neutral appearing by soon enriched "and coloured" by spices (cloves, cinnamon, may be cumin), may be neroli and fruits I suppose. Along the evolution the rose-patchouli slightly recedes (just a touch in intensity) while a wonderful cleaner (yes perfectly civilized) narcissus-musk supreme accord takes the leadership in all its sensual dynamic floral glamour which preserves anyway a creamy carnal chypre background (surely with a plain woody presence, a touch of resins, vanilla, faint animalic accents and far far less thick stuffy mossy-ambery labdanum or classic rich-spicy-incensey rootiness). The dry down is indeed a subtle and modern representation of sensual floral dark muskiness. In this final trait is almost impossible for me not recalling in the olfactory memory another Francis Kurkdjian's relatively recent and succesful creation, namely that Narciso Rodriguez for Her which is in the current preference of so many young urban teenagers all around the world. A determined thumbs up by me. Recommended.

    26th February, 2013 (Last Edited: 06th December, 2014)

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