The opening combines a spicy rose with citrus-orangey background that gives the rose a somewhat fresh entrée. The rose is gently spicy, with the spiciness being gentle; more with with light elegance than with heavy darkness. Interestingly, although a distinctly floral entity, the rose is not really sweet on my skin.
The development showcases a number of permutations of the rose theme, adding whiffs of cinnamon, later cumin and at times ambery whiffs, all contributing to the spicy side to various degrees. Herbal undertones come and go, and eventually the spicy rose is slowly fading away.
I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and eight hours of longevity, with the last couple of hours being close to my skin.
A spring rose with gentle spice, neither heavy nor ceremonial; a rose for those otherwise not inclined to like floral scents. 3.25/5.
A high watermark of male perfumery. There is no need for me to add to some of the brilliant detail reviews below, just wanted to express my love for this brilliant fragrance that makes rose so right for men.
28th March, 2016 (last edited: 11th April, 2016)
Lumiere Noire Pour Homme is first I've tried of Maison Francis Kurkdjian and it definitely does not disappoint. It does more to intrigue me than it does to thrill me but sometimes that can be a very good thing. At the core of the fragrance is a very hearty rose (it smells like a few different types of roses, in fact) and pretty much all of the other notes take a back seat to it. In fact, I might detect a little bit of the cinnamon but hardly anything non-rose at all.
LNPH comes off as a semi-fresh rose that is slightly sweet and slightly dark but not remotely a gourmand. It comes off as natural and with a lot of depth---each smell reveals a lot. Despite the spicy and earthy note list, it doesn't come off very much as either.
As some other reviewers have pointed out, LNPH comes off wholly unisex, not being specifically masculine or feminine in any particular respect. I enjoy it on my skin but it could work just as well on women's. It's also versatile with respect to use, though it probably leans formal rather than casual, and definitely it works for both cold and warm weather scenarios.
Great on projection and longevity for an EDT, this is certainly a promising introduction to the line as far as value, as well as the abovementioned craftsmanship.
I'm not sure I'd opt for a bottle of this because there are other roses that I prefer, and that work a little bit better on my skin as a man, but I'm certainly intrigued and will come back to this. A deep and fascinating composition.
7 out of 10
The first thing I smell is a combination of cumin and cinnamon – a rather unusual combination that I would have a difficult time getting used to if it remained for very long, but no problem there. Then the Artemisia enters in along with the patchouli and the accord becomes downright enjoyable: and this turns out to be primary accord.
Five notes – cumin, artemisia, rose, cinnamon, and patchouli – dominate an accord that holds elements of each in an excellent balance. To me one of the sides of the aromatic pentagon is lesser that the other four – I find the rose side lacking in intensity, it is hit and miss in performance on my skin. The other four form a shimmering interplay that unfortunately doesn’t last very long.
The projection of the middle accord is a little shallow and the fragrance has longevity problems: Lumiere Noire PH simply doesn’t last very long before it’s a skin scent which lasts a couple of hours. It is an intriguing accord… translucent, warm, sensual, and a bit mysterious. It is the thumbs-up kind of aroma I would be able to enjoy over an extended period… too bad its longevity is so it's a neutral for me.
From my understanding, this has been reformulated. In that case it's no wonder I was disappointed when I recently purchased a bottle of Lumiere Noire. The opening accord used to be one of the best around. It was bright and ethereal...a beautiful watery rose with elements of white light and natural greenery. But I didn't buy a bottle because I found the mid and base too feminine. A few years later, I thought, "Why not?" and ordered a bottle online. But when I sprayed it, that beautiful opening was nowhere in sight. It's still a nice beginning, but it's nothing like it was, and what was once the best part of this fragrance is now a shell of its former self. It's flatter and seems to have lost some of it's "lumiere." Too bad, because the most recent formulation is actually a bit darker and more masculine in the middle, the cinnamon/patchouli/cumin notes on equal par with the rose. However, it's a shame they messed around with the opening, and for that I'm going 'neutral' on Lumiere Noire.
11th October, 2014 (last edited: 02nd November, 2014)