The combination of benzoin and a light leathery whiff is pairing a certain brightness with substance, and the letter is enhanced in the drydown by the addition of light ambery undertone. Later on a pleasant incense is added, which is gently spicy and never cloying or heavy. At times a light rose hint is present towards the latter stages of this creation's development.
The sillage is moderate, the projection very good and the longevity outstanding - eleven hour on my skin.
This autumnal honeyed spicy fragrance is nice and never heavy- just the right measure, albeit not super-original. The blending is very well done. 3.25/5
Soft, sensuous and sweet. Spiced honey and rose with a hint of animalic carnality. It's a gourmand for adults... Like a dessert with liqueur. Delicious with good longevity and (luckily) very close sillage. Recommended for those with a bent for dark oriental fragrances with a hint of skank!
Cologne pour le Soir has a feel that reminds me of the MiN New York scents I have sampled.
I see it as a playful experiment. It's powdery.
This has started me off on a bad foot with Maison Francis Kurkdjian (MFK).
Intriguing scent – unique. Apparently it’s a skin-scent variation on the cologne concept. And instead of citrus and fresh green, it builds itself around incense absolute, benzoin, honey and rose – obviously it is an evening scent. I was thrown off-track with the first spray when for a couple of seconds it reminded me of an ‘80s powerhouse but then it settled down in a minute or two to the subtle incense absolute which smelled like an incense odor that doesn’t have a resinous emanation. By five or ten minutes into it, Cologne pour le Soir had settled into its skin scent persona, and stayed there for an two or three hours: It is a gentle infusion of benzoin, rose, and incense; it is airy and stays close to the skin; and every once in a while I think I smell a bit of civet or indoles floating off the skin. Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s Cologne pour le Soir is sophisticated, subtle and incredibly sensual.
Among things Francis Kurkdjian is exceptionally good at is the evocation of skin. Tender, soft, warm, discretely musky, and in this case, thinly veiled in sweet powder, this is fantasy skin of course – no one really smells like this naturally, but the suggestion that such physical grace may be available to some is part of Cologne pour le Soir’s charm.
Your guess is as good as mine about why it’s called a cologne when it has none of the citruses or herbals associated with that category. Maybe because it wears light and gauzy. I’d suggest the second half of the name is an important qualifier – if colognes are bright and breezy scents with a sunny disposition, this is perhaps Kurkdjian’s take of an after dark version, quieter, wearing chiffon, relaxing on a lounger. More mundanely, this is fine any time of the day, really.
Cologne pour le Soir’s notes are pretty abstracted: the rose here is a bit like the rose in Parfum Sacre, the benzoin (if the minuscule amounts permitted by IFRA can be evident in a composition) lending a slight vanillic tone to the generally balsamic feel of this perfume, the honey is again reminiscent of skin. What matters is the statement it makes is direct and it says something like: Come here, let me hold you close, let me sniff the back of your neck.