Urban Musk (2009)
by Tom Ford

I lay out my opinion from the start: Urban Musk smells like a base rather than a fully worked-out fragrance. Do I find the intensely animalic notes intriguing? Yes. Am I surprised that, despite the smack-you-in-the-face barnyard notes, UM is still very wearable? Yes. Is a fragrance that is clearly meant to be layered worth almost $200 for a small bottle? No.

UM is fascinating to me primarily as a study on what a niche brand thinks perfumistos/as want to smell. It certainly delivers some of the raunchy, barnyard notes that I miss in contemporary fragrances. That said, it really doesn't deliver much more. The top notes are deliciously raunchy, and as things mellow out there is still a notable animalic tone. Eventually, however, it dries down to a comfortable musk that smells remarkably of baked goods. There's not much more to it than that.

If this were $40 for 50ml, I would buy up a case of it and layer it with virtually everything I own. But for nearly five times that amount, I'm a lot less inclined to make the commitment.

19th October, 2011.

The problem with the musk note in niche brands is that it's legit musk. Legit musk, smells like sh*t. When I say legit, I mean not as synthetic smelling, not as chemically induced. Musk in a more natural way. You may ask yourself, "who wants to smell like poo?". Well, natural musks in fragrances are rather upper class. Now, I'm not saying that - if you wear Jovan Musk, you're trailer trash.. no; wear what you like - of course! I'm saying that I associate the more natural musks with the more affluent crowd, kings, queens, and royalty. This is just my opinion though.

Now.. with all that said, let's talk about Urban Musk. Well.. myself, not being a big musk fan, you can imagine me bashing this fragrance. However, the musk in the opening of Urban Musk, although very raw and natural smelling, is toned down. Ya, it still smells like poo.. but hang in there a little while. 10,20,30 minutes tops, and you'll see this fragrance transform into a different smokey blend, with some sort of deep dark fruit note(s), amber, some spices (very subdued), and a little something sweet.. but I can't quite pinpoint it. The overall dry down though is very very smokey, I'm talking like Tea for Two smokey. It's not bad, but not really my flavor.

On the upside of things, it lasts forever, but I didn't get much projection.. this could also be because I was expecting a natural musk smell, which isn't my thing, so I feared it would project, and I did a rather small application every time I wore this. Now knowing more about it, I may wear this fully soon, and revise this part of the review if needed.

6th February, 2011.

I am winging it here, without peeking at the notes or other reviews, so bear with me...Mint, dry horse poo, vanilla & spice. At first, all these notes compete-they do not synthesize until later on, at which point Urban Musk becomes fresh, pleasant, and comforting. In no way should this be compared to the horsey quality of animalic scents like La Nuit by Rabanne, where the animal scent is of warm skin and fur. This is definitely fecal, too much so for me, but luckily the indolic note fades after about 15 minutes, leaving only a soft, dry hay in its wake. The mint persists throughout but lessens in sweetness and takes on more of a Basil feel as some powdery florals show up in the heart. This fragrance should have some type of country-farm-in-the spring moniker instead of Urban Musk, which implies a sleek & metallic aroma. Sillage is discreet, longevity good. Easily unisex. While I am not sure if I would wear it, I give it thumbs up for originality and a well-constructed drydown.

5th January, 2010.

Tom Ford Private Blend Urban Musk

Those who read my reviews know I frequently kvetch about the name of perfumes that don't match the juice in the bottle. Hold on here we go again. Tom Ford released four new Private Blends in 2009 as the White Musk Collection. White Suede smells like leather and musk, Jamine Musk smells like jasmine and musk, and Pure Musk while not as strong as I might want smells like musk. What would you think Urban Musk should smell like? Does a barnyard conjure up images of a concrete jungle to you? Apparently to Tom Ford it does as the central accord here is akin to that same barnyard accord that is found in L'Artisan Dzing! and if you like that accord you should try Urban Musk because it is enough different than Dzing! to be worth giving a sniff. The top of Urban Musk starts with a jasmine and pepper zing. This gives way to a combination of ambrette, cumin and musk which puts me right in the center of the urban barnyard. I find this accord pleasant in small doses and the first few times I tried Urban Musk I over-sprayed and it lasted too long for my taste. With a little lighter application I found the barnyard to be a shorter lasting trip and thus more pleasant, to me. The base finishes with a mix of honey, benzoin and incense which gives off a light and airy sweetness overall at the end. Urban Musk has slightly below average longevity when sprayed with restraint and slightly above average longevity when sprayed with normal abandon. although as mentioned above I found the experience to be very different for me depending on the number of sprays I used. The sillage on Urban Musk is modest, as well. When properly applied I like Urban Musk but from now on I'm referring to it as Rural Musk.

16th November, 2009.