Genre: Woody Oriental
They needed to have come up with a better name than “Turkey Wood.” I guess “Thunder Wood” was already taken. (See under “French Lover.”) On second thought, maybe the French ought to give up on “Bois” for a while altogether…
Bois de Turquie opens on the same sort of brusque, acidulous citrus top notes that initially put me off of other fine scents from Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, including Parfum d’Habit and Route du Vétiver. Their piercing onslaught is ephemeral, however, and what follows is in dramatic contrast. Some of the citrus does endure, but the company of a dusty, austere frankincense note alters its character from raucous to contemplative. With the frankincense come soft woods and a mélange of dry herbs and spices, among which I can distinguish bay and coriander. The resulting accord grows increasingly astringent and medicinal as the citrus gives way to a conspicuous note of myrrh. The influence of Bertrand Duchaufour’s work for Comme des Garçons, Eau d’Italie, and L’Artisan Parfumeur is evident in the severe, parched impression Bois de Turquie makes. It is close in both style and content to several of his woody incense compositions, not least among them Dzongkha, with its parallel iris and incense construction.
Though dry and dusty, Bois de Turquie is also bright and pellucid in a way that suggests an arid, scrubby landscape in bright sun – all baked earth and straw colors. Those accustomed to the blunt, assertive style that Maître Parfumeur et Gantier established with Route du Vétiver, Eau des Îles, and Parfum d’Habit may be surprised at Bois de Turquie’s reticence. Coming from this house it is an uncharacteristically quiet scent. Like Buzzlepuff before me, I find that it wears close to the skin and fades fairly quickly. The central wood, spice, and incense accord is relatively linear once established, and fades after a very few hours into an ethereal drydown of sandalwood and myrrh. Eschewing the overt exoticism of a Dzongkha, a Timbuktu, or an Ourzazate, Bois de Turquie is instead a dignified, yet remote and meditative scent. I happen to prefer a helping of pungent exotica with my incense, but anyone who wants the otherworldly sensation of frankincense and myrrh in a more restrained style should give Bois de Turquie a try.
Bois de Turquie by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier is a gorgeous iris/sandalwood composition and one of my favorite scents for every day wear. It starts out sweet with notes of iris, mandarin orange, and orange blossom and quickly develops on the skin to expose sandalwood and bay leaf while a hint of myrrh lurks in the background. The iris note is beautiful and it never becomes too powdery because it is tamed by the sandalwood and perky bay. BdT makes me feel beautiful, approachable, and feminine; I could wear this everywhere and feel comfortable and appropriate. Longevity is mediocre, so I apply it to my undergarments. Projection is interesting because some of the notes sit very close to the skin, while the floral component leaves a decent trail. Overall, BdT is quite lovely and high quality.
One of the best takes on orris-root.
Great scent !! a relatively unknown perfume with a fruity-iris accord really estimable. good iris smell , not powdery or harsh , but a fruity/almondy and slighty creamy iris, swayed by a breeze of orange blossom, very wearable indeed and also with good longevity; although included in the pyramid of notes, I personally don´t notice the role of incense here.
big thumbs up for MPG!!
As said before this is a light scent. There is nothing that jumps out at you in Bois de Turquie. However, that does not mean it is a bad scent at all. It lacks the overall greatness of Santal Noble, but it is a very nice in its own right. It starts with a distinct but not overpowering orange scent due to the Mandarin, Orange blossom, Bergamot
notes. from there is moves smoothy in the floral and base notes while retaining the subtle orangeness. This has the distinct MPG smell and feel to it.
I am not sure what it has to do with woods and the name is somewhat misleading IMHO because it is not a woody scent at all. Even though it has a citrus opening it is not an aquadic scent either. I am not sure how to classify it, but it is pleasing.
If you are expecting a dramatic scent like Santal Noble, Parfum D'Habit or Ambre Précieux then you will be disappointed, but if you can accept it for what it is then you will be pleased. It is more subtle and lighter than the other three, but crafted just as nicely. MPG has another winner that I shall gladly wear for years.
At first sniff I get a combination of bay leaf and orange blossom – the opening reminds me a tiny bit of Iris Bleu Gris, but I find the very first notes of the opening much more likable that IBG; it is very enjoyable and interesting, but the enjoyment simply doesn’t last. The pyramid of Bois de Turquie lists a few floral notes – orange blossom, bergamot, and jasmine – but I don’t pick up on them even after the opening has disappeared. Rather, the opening morphs into the same violet-like off-note (I strongly dislike violet notes) that I get from Iris Bleu Gris, and I’m ready to scrub the fragrance from my skin. I understand that several orris notes give a violet-like emanation, and I believe that I’ve discovered the truth of that in Iris Bleu Gris and Bois de Turquie. I must admit, though, that BdT is a much milder form of my dislike. I do manage to lose the offending note without having to scrub, and I get a soft, attractive, resinous skin scent of myrrh and incense and wood for the drydown.
I don’t quite understand the position of Bois de Turkuie in the scheme of things from MPG. It hints at daring rather than actually being daring. “Daring” has been MPG’s forte for years. Ordinarily I would rate BdT as a neutral because the problem with the iris is mine, not theirs, but in BdT’s case, It is weak in sillage and longevity… and “weak” is the right word to use because it does not exhibit any of that hauntingly beautiful translucency such as MPG achieved with Sanguine Muskissime and some other of their scents. Considering this recent offering along with the reformulations of the original fragrances, I’m afraid that MPG is a company caught in a downward transition, and that is sad.
16th July, 2010 (last edited: 04th October, 2010)