De Bachmakov (2010)
by Different Company

I agree with the Redneck Perfumisto's point of view about the existence of a certain resemblance about this luminous fragrance and the airy,  immaculate and  citric-laundry traditional feel exuding by fragrances as Sel de Vetiver and  Divine bergamote. The chord of orange, greens and bergamot is an Ellena's fabric mark. The element that links these fragrances is that citric laundry Victorian factor made of bergamot, cedar and hesperides together with green aromatic notes as coriander for instance that  is present in De Bachmakov. The note of nutmeg here is linked with mandarin and bergamot in order to produce a citric-aquatic orangy and spicy effect. There is a sort of aquatic floral accord made of freesia and shiso leaves that imprints a watery and transparent vibe to the all whole composition and that is present till a middle stage of the development after which a sort of almost anosmic  and neutral cloudy white feel takes the scene with its slightly woodsy vibe, turning the juice out too linear and flat (probably the effect exuded by craie reminds the woodsy soft whitness of musk). I don't smell a structured woody base in here while is in the air a certain level of greeness and spiciness on the side of the starring citrus. The final smell is a citric and a bit detergent mossy scent that lasts few hours close on my skin.

16th December, 2011. (Last Edited: 17th December, 2011.)

Tarragon. That's what I thought that I was detecting upon initial application of The Different Company DE BACHMAKOV. Shiso leaves appear to be the note which imparts wafts of that particular, familiar greenish scent to this fine perfume.

I am reminded vaguely of Isabella Rossellini MANIFESTO, which has a similar overall aesthetic, but unfortunately is fatally marred by its probably entirely synthetic--and to me poisonous--components. I owned MANIFESTO for about a decade and finally swapped it away because I found it utterly unwearable. DE BACHMAKOV offers an excellent example of why people turn to niche perfume: no poison here whatsoever, just a pleasing blend of green notes, wood, light spices and light woods, which conspire to produce a truly enjoyable composition perfect for summer and spring.

I recommend this composition to guys and gals alike who appreciate a very natural-smelling clean and green cologne. Simple yet satisfying.

4th September, 2011.

After an invigorating and realistic bergamot top note, De Bachmakov settles into a transparent, understated arrangement of crisp herbs (especially the shiso listed in the pyramid), cedar, citrus and nutmeg that wears very close to the skin. I agree with rickbr’s observation that De Bachmakov smells much like the work of nose Celine Éllena’s celebrated father, Jean-Claude. As common with many of Éllena Père’s compositions, De Bachmakov’s overall contours read like a gloss on his magnificent Déclaration (itself closely allied with Edmond Roudnitska’s Eau d’Hermès).

De Bachmakov’s cedar/citrus axis owes much to Déclaration, but De Bachmakov disposes with Déclaration’s leather and animalic cumin, relying on nutmeg for its spicy facet and on a clean musk for warmth. The result is very sheer and luminous but conspicuously lacks the ambiguous animal pungency that enlivens Déclaration and the more successful of its offspring. De Bachmakov winds up smelling strangely anemic, especially as the citrus and shiso fall away.

The drydown accord of cedar and white musk isn’t just vanishingly faint, but also disappointingly hollow – more like a trace of shampoo or body wash than the late stages of a fully realized fragrance. De Bachmakov’s opening is persuasive, but the composition would have to last much longer and wind up someplace more interesting to make me want to wear it often.

11th July, 2011.

If someone used to Jean Claude Ellena tried this unlalebeled, this person would think it's one of his fragrances. Celina seems either to have the fondness for the same style and aromas or to be heavy influentiated by his dad's works. De Bachmakov reminds me of some elements that Ellena the dad worked in Kelly Caleche and Terre d'Hermés. Here you get the floral spring nuances of kelly caleche and the iris notes wrapped in what seems to be a fruity opening reminiscent of green apples. As the fragrance develops, the green floral aspects fades to give space for a cedar and musk base similar to the one of Terre d'Hermés, but with more focus on the dry woodiness of cedar and less focus in the mineral musky aspect of Terre. De Bachmakov seems to tie very well the two parts, altough it fails to produce a scent with an intense sillage and longevity. If you don't mind to apply a lot or reapply, it's an interesting fragrance.

5th February, 2011.

Tried a sample today and found the first hour incredibly crisp and invigorating - a wonderful mixture of green, citrus and "cold", building upon the usual note of freshness you get in ctirus. It evokes a bracing morning walk in the woods in late winter. During the middle notes the "cold" evaporates leaving the pine-citrus combination. It doesn't project much, and longevity was about 3-4 hours overall, but the smell is intoxicating throughout.

18th December, 2010.

This is certainly one of TDC's best. Similarities to Sel de Vétiver, Un Parfum de Charmes et Feuilles, Un Parfum de Alleurs et Fleurs, and Divine Bergamote are all palpable, yet the fragrance stands on its own as a novel creation. It has an immaculately clean and fresh feel, which is completely natural and pure. The fragrance opens with an impressive mix of cool, green, and herbal accords, which evokes fir trees, cold water, and brisk air. If Chanel no. 19 is somehow an herbal counterpart to no. 5, then this is the analogus light, citrusy, modern counterpart in relation to no. 5 Eau Première. In some ways, I find de Bachmakov to be a lighter and more feminine version of Fou d'Absinthe. Notably, there are no off-notes that I can detect.

My only complaint could possibly be that the longevity isn't particularly good, and the projection only moderate except at the beginning. There are wisps of fragrance for several hours, but never a substantial sillage. For many, this may not be a problem at all. The drydown is pleasant but faint. On the other hand, it is magnificently clean and clear, leaving no unpleasant residues behind. If longevity was the price, then I say it's a worthy tradeoff.

Quite unisex, there is no reason not to wear this at any time of the year, or under any circumstances. It has the versatility of a sport fragrance, but the sensibility of a niche feminine or high-end designer citrus masculine.

It's a glorious fragrance, and very hard for me to stop spraying and stop sniffing. The only reason I'm not giving it 5/5 is that the longevity is likely to bother those who don't like carrying a bottle around to refresh. Those who are used to things with a bit more oomph may find it a bit quiet. But I think it's perfect in that sense - a cool and gentle mountain breeze on a clear day.

6th September, 2010.