Has a very promising start of lovely white florals. gets a bit soapy. Pretty and sweet. Though at times earthy and apricot-like. Quickly gets cloying and tiresome, even in micro-doses.
And there is nothing (and I mean NOTHING) remarkable or interesting here.
Love & Tears - Aptly Named
So many things to say: We got a dabber! It's loud and proud! I can see this causing tears if applied too liberally to the wearer or by those in the vicinity. Lord knows the potential for a migraine sized headache is here. All that being said; in moderation I find this beautiful and charming.
The jasmine is fresh and dewy and at the peak of their bloom. Orange blossom and lily of the valley faithfully support their leading lady and are detectable once you become used to the jasmine. It turns a touch green from the narcissus, galbunum and petitgrain about 45 minutes in. Then I get a stong licorice note that sticks around thanks to the lavender. And that's about where it stays on me. I'm not a huge licorice fan, but it balances out the jasmine quite nicely and gives it a clean quality. Not soapy, just kind of after a shower clean, a touch medicinal clean. Make no mistake; this is jasmine through and through, but I do not find it to be linear by any means. And I don't get any of the cedar or oak moss.
Will I buy a bottle, no. Do I think it is a well done perfume, absolutely. It is well-blended, well-rounded, well-balanced. It's a big floral! And by big I mean HUGE!
Cons: Huge floral with potential for a mega-sized headache"
Because the jasmine and orange blossom in L&T are surrounded by the sharp greenery of petitgrain, bergamot, galbanum, and ylang, I actually missed the jasmine all together and thought that I was smelling an accord of tuberose and orange blossom. In any event, the white florals here (no matter what tricks they play on your nose) are crisp and natural, not heady and piercing. Still, a light application would be wise.
Another gorgeous soliflore from By Kilian, and I may love this more than Beyond Love. It is definitely a fragrance I could surrender to, except Love and Tears is perhaps a little more masculine with the woody drydown and petitgrain opening. The galbanum in the top is wonderfully bold, and the oakmoss punctuates it firmly in the classic chypre tradition. For a jasmine lover, this could be a holy grail. It smells exactly like southern California or the Mediterranean (or I would imagine India) where the vines climb wildly and saturate the balmy evening air with their exotic smell. It also avoids the tea notes of many jasmine fragrances and smells vibrant and alive. The honey of orange blossom and creamy warmth of ylang ylang extend the floral heart infinitely. It has great sillage and lasts forever.
I simply just fell in love. I didn't think I'd love any jasmine other than beloved No.5, but this one is tempered by the ylang ylang. Just gorgeous. It's just so feminine and surprisingly more Love than Tears. Besides, Kilian himself sold it to me during a visit--even wrote me a little card saying something very sweet. No one says no to Kilian. He's pretty hot actually. No chest hair though (he does the french thing of wearing a nice suit paired with a nice shirt unbuttoned all the way to the pec area). Oh well, they can't ALL look like Tom Selleck!