This creation struck me as odd, as I was left wondering why anyone would try to stick juicy tuberose in the middle of a desert of crisp spices, when all of a sudden it hit me - this isn't just tuberose; it's tuberose potpourri! I get a lot of the pepper and cardamom, as well as the telltale yellow-green angelica I love so much. It's all been dried up, crumbled, and dropped into a bowl. Truth be told tuberose-centric fragrances that I honestly enjoy are pretty few and far between, and not since sampling l'Arte di Gucci have I felt so highly of one. Fans of the usual floral bouquet will be taken aback here, but this sweet yet dry composition is a whole new facet in this flower's personality and a refreshing new take on the matter altogether. The fact that it has staying power far superior to that of most l'Artisan releases is a pleasant bonus.
When I find a tubereuse fragrance I love, (which happens rarely) I embrace it fully. Perhaps it is because this isn't the "chubby" tuberose (aka Carnal Flower) that I love it so very much. The spicy wood aspect of this is fantastic on my skin.
As far as "blatant accord borrowing", Nuit de Tubereuse was created by Bertrand Duchaufour as was Timbuktu & Dzongkha. How is this improper if he is putting together bits & bobs of his other creations to make something new?
I love it.
It smells great on me.
I get lots of compliments.
Thumbs up from me.
Genre: Floral Oriental
Bertrand Duchaufour has been venturing beyond the incense-heavy style he’s been associated with in the wake of Avignon, Timbuktu, Dzongkha, Jubilation XXV, and the early releases in the Eau d’Italie line. I’ve been taken with some of the resultant floral compositions, including Amaranthine, Magnolia Romana, and Fleur de Liane, so it was with much pleasure that I looked forward to Nuit de Tubéreuse. I was particularly curious to see how Duchaufour would handle this most lush, heady, and voluptuous of white flowers, especially after his success with the grand tropical bouquet of Amaranthine.
I expected the treatment of tuberose to be novel, and my expectations were borne out by Nuit de Tubéreuse’s dusty cardamom, pepper and angelica, which associate in an unprecedented way with the tuberose that wells up to join them. The result renders tuberose soapy rather than fleshy, and much drier and leaner than I am accustomed to. It’s only after this promising introduction has had time to settle and dissipate that disappointment first sets in. The curiously dry tuberose persists as spices recede, but what slides in to replace then is a harsh, overtly chemical artificial wood note that feels like sawdust being shoved up my nose. It’s an effect that’s ruined many a masculine drydown for me, and while it’s novel and unexpected in a white floral context, it’s no more pleasant. As a background element, the pseudo-wood might have effectively reinforced the dry austerity that Duchaufour plays against his tuberose, but set to the fore, as here, it overwhelms the entire composition.
On a hopeful note, I may well be oversensitive to Nuit de Tubéreuse’s woody aromachemical. In that case, less sensitive noses may not object to it here. If you enjoy tuberose or admire Duchaufour’s work, I recommend trying Nuit de Tubéreuse. It’s a new and interesting approach to a familiar ingredient, though your regard for it may depend on how you perceive its woody base note.
I used to live in Florida. Anyone who's spent some time there might have been present during one of the major citrus flowerings.
Certain months bring the celestial fragrance of the flowers wafting in the breeze. In its natural form, orange blossom is gorgeous. It's also very easy to ruin a frag with too much. Even worse, is one of those awful, nasty fake orange blossom fragrance that makes you instantly ill.
The same is true for the tuberose flower. Heavy and sweet, it can easily overpower a scent, or be bloated to artificial proportions.
Furthermore, tuberose is like a beautiful alcoholic. Off the booze, she's fun to be around, but let her too close to the liquor cabinet, and she'll start knocking over tables and starting brawls.
Having said that, Nuit De Tubereuse is dominated by the scent. It smells true to the flower to me, although I've only smelled it in essential oil form. Tuberose has had a drink or two this Nuit, but she hasn't lost control...barely. She's getting loud, but she's still laughing and the life of the party. Her jokes are a little off-color, not to everyone's taste. It's getting a little warm, and the guests are sweating lightly under gaudy outfits. No one can take their eyes off of her.
But if you're up to it, tuberose is throwing one hell of a party here.
Full and rich it starts off, citrus, a dash of dark spice, cardamom and tuberose with a whiff of rose on the distant horizon. Ylang-ylang is present in the drydown, a wood note and some styrax in the base - overall on the lighter side; this is a very balanced warm weather day scent. Silage and projection are not great, but the longevity is superb at eight hours. A very nice tuberose creation in which much more is going on than just the tuberose.