Genre: Floral Oriental
Bertrand Duchaufour has been venturing beyond the incense-heavy style he’s been associated with in the wake of Avignon, Timbuktu, Dzongkha, Jubilation XXV, and the early releases in the Eau d’Italie line. I’ve been taken with some of the resultant floral compositions, including Amaranthine, Magnolia Romana, and Fleur de Liane, so it was with much pleasure that I looked forward to Nuit de Tubéreuse. I was particularly curious to see how Duchaufour would handle this most lush, heady, and voluptuous of white flowers, especially after his success with the grand tropical bouquet of Amaranthine.
I expected the treatment of tuberose to be novel, and my expectations were borne out by Nuit de Tubéreuse’s dusty cardamom, pepper and angelica, which associate in an unprecedented way with the tuberose that wells up to join them. The result renders tuberose soapy rather than fleshy, and much drier and leaner than I am accustomed to. It’s only after this promising introduction has had time to settle and dissipate that disappointment first sets in. The curiously dry tuberose persists as spices recede, but what slides in to replace then is a harsh, overtly chemical artificial wood note that feels like sawdust being shoved up my nose. It’s an effect that’s ruined many a masculine drydown for me, and while it’s novel and unexpected in a white floral context, it’s no more pleasant. As a background element, the pseudo-wood might have effectively reinforced the dry austerity that Duchaufour plays against his tuberose, but set to the fore, as here, it overwhelms the entire composition.
On a hopeful note, I may well be oversensitive to Nuit de Tubéreuse’s woody aromachemical. In that case, less sensitive noses may not object to it here. If you enjoy tuberose or admire Duchaufour’s work, I recommend trying Nuit de Tubéreuse. It’s a new and interesting approach to a familiar ingredient, though your regard for it may depend on how you perceive its woody base note.
I used to live in Florida. Anyone who's spent some time there might have been present during one of the major citrus flowerings.
Certain months bring the celestial fragrance of the flowers wafting in the breeze. In its natural form, orange blossom is gorgeous. It's also very easy to ruin a frag with too much. Even worse, is one of those awful, nasty fake orange blossom fragrance that makes you instantly ill.
The same is true for the tuberose flower. Heavy and sweet, it can easily overpower a scent, or be bloated to artificial proportions.
Furthermore, tuberose is like a beautiful alcoholic. Off the booze, she's fun to be around, but let her too close to the liquor cabinet, and she'll start knocking over tables and starting brawls.
Having said that, Nuit De Tubereuse is dominated by the scent. It smells true to the flower to me, although I've only smelled it in essential oil form. Tuberose has had a drink or two this Nuit, but she hasn't lost control...barely. She's getting loud, but she's still laughing and the life of the party. Her jokes are a little off-color, not to everyone's taste. It's getting a little warm, and the guests are sweating lightly under gaudy outfits. No one can take their eyes off of her.
But if you're up to it, tuberose is throwing one hell of a party here.
Full and rich it starts off, citrus, a dash of dark spice, cardamom and tuberose with a whiff of rose on the distant horizon. Ylang-ylang is present in the drydown, a wood note and some styrax in the base - overall on the lighter side; this is a very balanced warm weather day scent. Silage and projection are not great, but the longevity is superb at eight hours. A very nice tuberose creation in which much more is going on than just the tuberose.
Elegant, spicy tuberose
On me, Nuit de Tuberose is a lovely combination of spice and creamy tuberose - which can be a bit of an odd juxtoposition, but happily works nicely on my skin. I can see how it might be redundant to those who own Dzonka and/or Timbuktu, but while I love many L'Artisan fragrances, I found both of those to be a bit too harsh/bitter on my skin, though it's probably time for me to try Dzonka again.
The word that comes to mind with Nuit de Tuberose is "windblown" - It feels like I'm wearing a scent that might waft through a window or on a breeze somewhere with luscious late spring weather.
Timbuktu + Dzongkha + Tuberose
Nuit de Tubereuse is a combination of accords from Dzongkha & Timbuktu with tuberose added in.
Take the cardamom , pink pepper and mango from Timbuktu, add to it the white tea and incense from Dzonka and finally some plastic'y tuberose. That is Nuit de Tubereuse.
But tuberose is dense and concentrated. Not loud by any means but solid in structure. It's as if the tuberose essential oil was left on a Petri dish for a few days. And the dense tuberose oil that hadn't evaporated was used in Nuit de Tubereuse.
Now that's not a bad thing if you don't already own either Timbuktu or Dzongkha.
But , if like me, you do , then Nuit de Tubereuse feels redundant. The tuberose note in NdT does not carry the perfume alone. The two borrowed accords are as prominent, if not more prominent,than the tuberose note.
A good perfume but blatant accord borrowing is frowned upon. Especially from the skilled Mr.Duchafour.
Cons: Redundant "