Finally a good Etat Libre d’Orange under my nose. The opening is beautiful, lively, pleasant and solid: a sugary heart, orange-neroli zesty head notes, quite sweet but not “gourmand”; a rather natural, and slightly boozy kind of tart-sweet (think of Frapin’s Passion Boisée) with resins, honey, also tobacco to me, which overall kind of reminds me of a sort of child nephew of Fumerie Turque; less tobacco, more woody and more sweet – “less cigars and more candies”, shortly. Bright spices (ginger) melt with the citrus-woody accord. Finally, initially I get only a hint of immortelle, which however quickly takes the main stage and becomes the prominent note, with its peculiar earthy-boozy-floral personality, quite rich and “dirty” here – and other immortelle-based scents come to mind. What I really enjoy here is the citrus-floral silky breeze which provides a touch of grace and colour, a thin crystalline breezy-sweet accord which blends well with woods (a restrained, clean, yet slightly “dark” vetiver) to create a “spring”, joyful frame to the earthy smokiness of immortelle. I think the contrast between smoky-earthy, spicy-zesty and floral-sweet notes is perfect here, graceful and restrained enough to smell perfectly solid and utterly pleasant to wear; it kind of quotes and alludes to several other scents, blending them in something new and unique – from mainstream fruity-floral scents (like J’adore, just the first that came to mind) to spicy-citrus/neroli ones (Fendi Theorema) to the quite unrelated realm of earthy-tobacco-immortelle fragrances, from Histoires de Parfums 1740 to Huitième Art Fareb or Lutens’ Fumerie Turque. Not saying it is similar to any of these in particular; rather that like in a “collage” painting, it kind of takes bits and echoes of them, juxtaposing them here to create something new. Like a portrait made with bits of other portraits. On the drydown, though, one of those scents becomes more than an “echo” and comes quite more closer – Fendi Theorema (for women), mostly for the same interplay among citrus-orange notes and spices-woods. Other names and “quotes” aside, is a really well-made scent: it’s bright, pleasant, playful yet shady and smoky, tamed down enough to be safe and versatile, effortlessly elegant and velvety. Nice!
Genre: Woody Oriental
Etat Libre d’Orange is a frustrating outfit. Their marketing is adolescent inanity masquerading as avant garde, and their products promise clever eccentricity but often wind up smelling slapdash (Rien, Je Suis un Homme), derivative (Eloge du Traitre, Nombril Immense), or simply unpleasant (Sécrétions Magnifiques). Like This joins the recent Fat Electrician as one of the most gratifying fragrances I’ve smelled from this house, and their sequential release leaves me hoping that the company may be moving in the right direction.
The ginger and pumpkin top notes are at once peculiar and pleasant. They avoid the gourmand parody of pumpkin pie through association with a rooty vetiver and an elusive, dusty, incense-like note that I can’t manage to identify. Besides vetiver, the heart includes a refreshing green neroli, a sprinkling of immortelle, and occasional echoes of the spiced pumpkin. I’d like to commend perfumer Mathilde Bijaoui on her use of immortelle in Like This. Immortelle has a tendency to overwhelm all other company, and it’s rare that I’ve experienced this note so well balanced and blended in a composition. In fact, only Bertrand Duchaufour’s Jubilation XXV for Amouage comes to mind at the moment.
The immortelle and vetiver stick around for the drydown, which relies mostly on a quiet, clean white musk that at times evokes clean laundry or shampoo. Like This is neither faint nor extremely potent, but radiates a comfortable aura of scent around its wearer. Longevity is reasonable, though I can’t help wishing that the drydown which is the scent’s least inspired or original phase, did not set in quite so soon. Still, Like This successfully navigates the narrow path between novelty and congeniality, and remains one of the handful of Etat Libre d’Orange scents I actually enjoy wearing.
The notes, listed for "Like This" are: mandarin, ginger, pumpkin, Immortelle, neroli, rose, vetiver, heliotrope, musks. The fragrance smells just like all these warm and skin friendly aromas, but it takes a little walk down a pathway to develop from one thing and then to the next. At first I am put off by the the warm smell of cosmetics although I don't see iris in the notes list I thought I smelled a lipstick iris scent at first. Then some spices of ginger pumpkin waft forward. Quickly though these spices and transparent warm florals seem to blend into the skin with a warm skin smell that reminds me of osmanthus flower - don't see that one either. At the end of it all is a warm very civilized clean skin smell that if I don't enjoy wearing myself I would love to smell on the lady in my life. Its nice Like This.
I love Tilda Swinton’s striking beauty, I love the idea of woman she conveys. I’ve seen most of her films, from the ones directed by Derek Jarman to the slightly embarassing, except for a few moments,“Io sono l’ amore”- set in my hometown, Milan. I love her deep, sensual voice reading the poem from which the fragrance is named (you can listen to it on the ELDO site, in case you haven’t found it yet). I love he story behind the creation of this fragrance.
Do I love the juice itself? Well, no.
The notes listed and perceived are definitely in my register: heliotrope, ginger, orange blossoms, pumpkin, burnt sugar.. but on my skin the scent stays flat and sweet- sourish. Too bad. It must be because my hair is not red nor I am tall and skinny…
In any case, Like this is a beautiful, intimate and unconventional fragrance.
This smells to me almost exactly like Ginger by Lush/Gorilla Perfumes, but quieter. For most of its duration l get candied ginger in syrup, with the immortelle note giving it a dryness rather than a cloying sweetness. l don't know what pumpkin smells like, so l can't say that l smell it here. ln the base l get a little vetiver & some sandalwood, before it all fades out around four hours in.
l think this fragrance is very comforting, perfect for autumn, & it also makes me think of Christmas. lt's made me want to buy another bottle of Ginger, too!
By the way, if you want to experience gourmand heaven, try wearing this together with Ambre Narguile; the combination of the two produces a sweet, scrummy deliciousness, as well as a craving for naughty puddings!
Creamy and breezy, this opens with a flourish of old-school sophistication, all chiffon scarf and sunglasses. It has the pleasure of being like nothing else, incorporating the burnt sugar meatiness of immortelle perfectly in a beautifully foamy surround. The ginger is unobtrusive, the pumpkin mellow and a bit boozy – really this fragrance is not about the notes at all but the overall effect which is light yet lingering, and poised but also playful. Slight nuances (mere hints, really) of vegetal and earthy tones embellish its sweet mousse without distracting. When the perfume has settled, it seems like a notion of what a godlike person’s skin must smell like. (You know, the kind of radiant person who makes you inhale deeply as you pass them on the street just to experience their aura.) Confidence in a bottle, and subtle about it.
This drove at least one acquaintance mad with joy when she smelled it on me.
Disclaimer: About 8 hours in, most of the distinctiveness is gone and a somewhat mushy sweetness is left, but that’s pretty good going.