opens with bubble gum/white flowers accented by spicy/dark citrus/fruit-sweet/deep/rich/opulent-bordering on being over the top-enormous projection-a floral cornucopia/bouquet-very sweet-get the smell of different flower smells kind of drifting around, swirling around each other-the spice/fruit/citrus kind of just hangs in the background-a presence of wood starts making itself known-mainly a sweet flowery thing-beautiful-brings to mind flower fragrances of days gone by-smooth very well blended and rich-woody drydown with just the faintest touch of incense-barely there to me-stays sweet and flowery throughout , but gets drier, sort of arrid-very smooth and well blended-I hate to gender fragrances but this does lean more toward the feminine side-I would keep this to wearing around the house or just on the back of the hand for sniffing enjoyment...
IMHO decant/split worthy Spicy Woody Floriental
Ahhhhh Amouage . . . . . Opus I is indeed sweet, floral and fruity, but it is also resinous and deep. I can understand some not liking its sweetness, I don't usually go for sweet fragrances but this is another beast altogether. I notice a lot of the reviewers for this are men and I do find this decidedly feminine despite its unisex rating. When I first applied this my brain had one of those explosive moments of instantly transporting to years past and I assumed I was zeroing in on one of my mother's many lovely fragrances. But this morning it hit me, this is Must de Cartier from the early 80's, way back when it was fabulous before it was reformulated. I used to visit the nearest department store on my lunch hour and spritz it. I seem to remember it in the $80 range for 1.7 oz. of EdT. Pretty much Amouage pricing for back then. I couldn't afford it then and now it's gone. I bought the one ounce of extrait having heard it was close to the original, but found it strangely flat and uninspiring. But Opus I! It is now some 32 years later and I must pay dearly still for this stunning fragrance, but pay I will in case it disappears as did Must. I should mention too that the sillage is pretty much perfect and lasting power very, very good at about 8 hours on my scent eating skin. Much longer lasting than Must. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous!
Genre: Floral Oriental
Opus I’s gorgeous, opulent, and weighty spiced citrus and animalic opening evolves quickly into a sweet, tropical white blossom accord centered on indolic tuberose and lush, fruity ylang-ylang. It is far more evocative of “island paradise” than Amouage’s accustomed Arabian-market-meets-French-salon aesthetic.
Nevertheless, the tropical flowers bloom on oriental soil, nourished by sweet tonka and a mélange of creamy woods. Indeed, Opus I’s overall style recalls tuberose-enriched floral orientals from the 1980s and 1990s – scents like Byzance, Jaïpur Saphir, and Ysatis. The tone grows increasingly sweet over time, to the point, two hours in, where the whole floral-oriental apparatus begins to cloy. At this stage I would have welcomed some internal contrast in the form of frankincense, moss, vetiver, green notes, or leather: anything with a bitter edge to cut the prevailing syrup.
It’s only after a few more hours’ wear that the sweet, sweet fruity florals calm down enough the reveal the full panoply of resinous and woody base notes, which once perceived contribute much needed balance to the composition. As with most of the Amouage floral scents I’ve worn, sillage and projection are substantial, and endure for hours before Opus I dries down to a plush sandalwood and tonka skin scent with a touch of vetiver. Unfortunately, Opus I doesn’t do as much for me as Amouage Gold (either one), Dia (either one again), or Ubar, the last of which most closely resembles Opus I in overall texture. (Lots of sandalwood.) In fact, in the tuberose floral oriental style, I still much prefer Byzance to this. If the rest of the scent fulfilled the promise of its beautiful top notes, Opus I would be really special, but the two hours of unbalanced sweet, fruity, floral notes that follow are a deal breaker for me.
A bored oriental babe
OPUS I struck me as a floral oriental that confounds more than it pleases. The sections are all there: soapy mildly indolic florals, warm spices, sweet-ambery/powdery basenotes. They weave in and out of centerstage as the scent progresses but the harmony seems 'off' as though they don't play well together. Or is this a deliberate orchestration on the perfumer's part?
As far as florals or orientals go, I won't describe her as 'pretty' but she's far from unattractive, with a certain elusiveness that could either draw you in or repel you with her cool emotional detachment. I suppose if you wish to get her number, be prepared to spend a little more time getting to know her. But with so many attractive belles around, why bother?
Pros: Not your typical Amouage oriental
Cons: Not good at first impressions
Opus I is a feminine fragrance in my opinion too much powdery, sweet, soapy and finally onedimentional to be considered a rich or opulent one. It's not so devastating (effectively smells anyway unbalanced) but it must be evalued as a mediocre fruity/floral experiment, especially being an Amouage one, namely coming straight out a glorious (though still modern) exotic tradition. All i detect is a "white/yellow" mélange of creamy rose/tuberose over a white-powdery woody/musky base. Some ripe fruits (yes plums or may be apricots) and a touch of frankincense (the incensey/peppery touch of dust) and sweet tonka complete the fatigue. The outcome is too much salty/sweet (or better really sweet with much sweeter dissonant undertones smelling more acute and so ostensibly almost salty), yummy, floral in a balmy way, talky (powdery woods) and youthful to be vaguely enclosed in the ring of the most famous opulent feminine creations around.
16th March, 2013 (last edited: 28th May, 2014)