Arsene Lupin Dandy Eau de Parfum is another one in the Jean-Paul Guerlain's sons congeries, a really interesting and articulated cozy concoction (despite we are a step underneath the Habit Rouge/Derby/Mitsouko/Heritage/Jicky's "and more" grandeur). Distinguished, spicy, orangy, resinous, intellectual, tobacco/incense/moss/patchouli/sandalwood mastered and finally divinely leathery (despite the leather could not be considered as a really standout note in my humble opinion). Dandy is really seasoned and rounded (with its delicious tobacco-leather-spices modern accord) but with an hesperidic and mossy secret classic chypre (vaguely vintage) soul. I detect by soon the cardamom which is anyway in my opinion less influencing than in the Voyou's less mature version. The note of violet is perfectly joined to sweet spices (I suppose nutmeg, cinnamon and further), woods, hesperides and leather in a really interesting "yet classic" accord (Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur, Cuir Amethyste, for instance). Finally a touch of vanilla starts soothing the aroma with a whiff of balminess while the mossy sandawood becomes almost prominent. I see for sure the "spicy" connection with Amouage Dia but I think AL Dandy is also distant relative of Mazzolari Lui, Burberry for Men, Armani Cuir Amethyste and Canali Black Diamond. Anyway another great subtle spicy-floral leather to be enjoyed and another interesting concoction from an "Immense" maison.
04th November, 2014 (last edited: 07th January, 2015)
On the opening I'm getting strong notes of cardamom and citrus with pink peppers and powdery violets. This is surrounded by a soft ever-present sandalwood.
The opening is a little overbearing but it soon settles down to a powdery violets and woods accord with a dash of incense.
A rough opening that settles down to a very pleasant fragrance.
My first thought after sniffing Guerlain’s Arsène Lupin Dandy was “How marvelous.” My second was that it smelled vaguely and hauntingly familiar. It didn’t take me too long to figure out why, either. It turns out that Dandy is the only scent I’ve found so far that closely approaches Amouage’s subtly beautiful Dia for Men in style – and, to a lesser extent, in content. Like Dia, Dandy is a complex, sophisticated, and finely balanced composition centered on high quality labdanum (cistus), frankincense (olibanum), and iris root, with prominent cardamom, sandalwood, and bergamot accents.
How much alike do the two actually smell? Extended side-by-side comparison reveals many parallels, but the two are not close enough to be redundant. Dia is the spicier, sweeter, and more incense-forward composition, while Dandy, true to its name, is more powdery and more conspicuously floral, with a very potent rose note at its heart. I find it comically ironic that the only fragrance I know which in any way approximates Dia is both harder to come by and (did I ever think I’d say this) even more expensive.
All comparisons aside, Dandy is an impressive composition, and easily the most accomplished masculine fragrance Guerlain has released in some time. The scent opens on a very lively and pleasing accord of bergamot, pink peppercorns, and cardamom, with dry frankincense following very closely behind. The rose and powdery iris root slide in after a few more minutes, while mildly animalic labdanum and luxuriously creamy woods shore up the foundation. For all its layered complexity, Dandy remains remarkably luminous and transparent on the skin, with little of the Edwardian bombast one might expect from the name and the contents. Too bad this couldn’t have been Guerlain Homme.
leather but atypical
It's not leathery like Knize Ten, Cuirnde Russe and Bandit. It's a sweet'ish violets, cardamom & leather with a subtle myrrh & sandalwood dry down.
I enjoyed the opening & dry down more than the middle bits. At certain points it becomes neatly identical to Cuir Amethyste (which I own& enjoy).
But where C. Amethyste is dominated by birch & vanilla accord, Dandy is predominantly myrrh, sandalwood & the Guerlinade but severely toned down.
Pros: above average complexity
Cons: a bit uninspiring in the middle section
Mmmmmm, this is lovely. A creamy suede leather, violets and cardamom (one of my favourite notes in perfumery) on a Guerlinade backbone. Warm, enveloping and more-ish. Yes, it is similar to Dia Man, but bolder, less shy. Sillage and longevity are good. Well worth the money in my book.