Perfume Directory

Sartorial (2010)
by Penhaligon's

Advertisement

Sartorial information

Year of Launch2010
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 305 votes)

People and companies

HousePenhaligon's
PerfumerBertrand Duchaufour
Parent CompanyPuig Beauty & Fashion Group
Parent Company at launchFox Paine & Company > Cradle Holdings

About Sartorial

Penhaligon's say "A fragrance for a new generation of gentlemen, inspired by the scents of the workroom at Norton & Sons, bespoke Tailors of Savile Row"

Reviews of Sartorial

This day, 2018 Aug 27 :

A straight-up homage to a previous designer release from 2003 (hint: tin can) this one is very likable based on the structure alone. It's a twist on the classic anise fougere a'la Azzaro and the aforementioned YSL juice.

But for me, the balance is off and the heart becomes a one-note affair for so long that I just want it to be over by time the base is revealed.

Well-made and sample-worthy, for certain, but I think this is done better, cheaper by others (see Pasha de Cartier).

Two thumbs sideways.


27th August, 2018
Penhaligon's Sartorial (2010) has something of a hype train behind it and I can see why. Conversely, it gets a fair amount of negative blowback because of this hype, but also because of the perfumer responsible and the brand itself. Not helping matters is that Sartorial is the first Penhaligon's creation with a significant amount of chemistry involved, steering away from the old-world naturalism of their classics, which likely rubbed Penhaligon's core market the wrong way. Finally, after we unpack who made it, how it was made, and who it targets, we have to address the scent itself, which is also a tiny bit of a challenge to a throughly modern nose in spite of the technology used to create it. Sartorial is a barbershop fougère, more so in the mossy and powdery vein of the French or American styles than in the dry citrus and woods variety of classic British tonics or colognes, which is the first part of it's controversial nature. Sartorial runs right up against modern high-end niche fougères that seek to grant a similar experience, like Invasion Barbare by MDCI (2005) or even cheap drugstore classics like Canoe (1936) still stalking the earth. To make matters worse, journeyman perfumer Bertrand Duchafour created Sartorial, and he's known as a hired gun whose origins lie with the irreverent Commes de Garçons, and a man who pads entire catalogs of niche upstarts with his sometimes samey compositions; I don't feel he did that here, but I get the concern. Finally, "elitist colognoisseurs" give this tons of blowback for courting young affluent businessmen when Penhaligon's has been the center of the "what is niche?" argument, similar to Guerlain, which isn't a fashion designer either, but like Penhaligon's, hasn't directly identified with niche perfumery despite being dedicated to perfume and having products on the ultra-luxe price tier. Curiouser and curiouser...

Sartorial seeks to replicate the smell of the back room at Norton & Sons Bespoke Tailor of Saville Row, and that's not to say Sartorial is recreating the smell it had in the 19th century, but the smell it has now, marrying this aura to a timeless barbershop fougère structure. Logically, it's going to take a decent number of synthetic scent molecules to replicate the smell of metal steam irons on fabric and silk sachets of lavender or heliotrope hanging from warm-pressed jacket pockets, but it appears Mr. Duchafour achieves success. I won't try to give a breakdown of what I smell compared to the listed pyramid for this reason, as it's just a hot mess of notes, but outside the impression of a tailor's workspace, I catch a spiky lavender opening, soapy neroli like an eau de cologne, cardamom, beeswax that distantly recalls the drydown of Chanel's Antaeus (1981), vanilla like what's found in the aforementioned Canoe, and a very complex base that stays light on it's feet. You get a slight talcum note but it's not on the level of a Brut (1963) or Wild Country (1967), while the usually-buttery oakmoss is countered by the synthetic metallic note in the top, making the musk, dry myrrh and cedar do the talking. Sartorial finishes like the antithesis of something such as cK Be (1996), being clearly the scent of a heteronormative upper-class man dressed "to the nines" leaving his favorite exclusive barber, rather than a gender-fluid barbershop fougère "for everyone" like cK Be has become. Despite this, Sartorial is not intimidating like a typical Penhaligon's scent can sometimes be, as it's all impressions and not assertions. Sartorial is lavender, vanilla, oakmoss, and beeswax absolute wrapped in cedar and tonka when you parse away the synthetic filler, and that's not bad; unexciting perhaps, but not bad.

Whether or not you feel Penhaligon's has any claim to niche status or market is irrelevant to what they are and always have been: an old perfumer with long-held royal warrants that like Geo F Trumper or Ed Pinaud, has it's origins in high-end barber culture of the Victorian Age. Unlike Creed, Penhaligon's has never banked on the status of past clientele nor priced it's catalog accordingly, even if I wouldn't exactly call them affordable either, since you're going over 3 digits in price unless you buy "found" testers and the like. As for Sartorial itself, sales prove the validity of it's existence, like it or not. Ironically, replicating the smell of a tailor's room would turn away a true snob as they'd wish to avoid smelling like "the help", and that's a bit of tongue-in-cheek I can appreciate. I'm neither on the "for" nor "against" hype trains here, and see it as a nice barbershop smell with a bit of "movie magic" replicating the tailoring aesthetic; it's enjoyable for this reason but never going to be my signature. The infinitely better-crafted Rive Gauche Pour Homme (2003) already holds my heart as my ultimate barbershop fougère experience, and it doesn't need warrants or olfactory CGI to do it. Still, Sartorial is a very good fougère you won't regret picking up if you can dig the metallic "hot iron" vibe, and will make you smell like you're wearing your Sunday best, even if you're just in jeans and a t-shirt buying McDonald's. Sartorial is best-worn as a work scent or a dress-up event like a formal dinner with visiting family, or attending a wedding. Sartorial could also replace the long-gone Penhaligon's Racquets Formula (1989) as it's in that part of the family tree. Never challenging, always pleasant, with moderate performance and adequate sillage, Sartorial could easily be a work daily for a white-collar 9 to 5 guy who's more Men's Warehouse than Brooks Brothers, which is where I feel this fits the best.
02nd August, 2018 (last edited: 03rd August, 2018)
Reynolds Woodcock ( Daniel Day-Lewis ) in Phantom Thread

19th March, 2018
Starts off with a sweet and citrus twist on the mature, old-school, classic male scent. Very good projection lasts 3-4 hours. The drydown is sweet and musky with that old-school feel still coming through.

I’m not a big old-school fragrance guy but this is pretty enjoyable.

Longevity is good, lasts through the work day.
27th January, 2018
Swanky Show all reviews
United States
Many mainstream fragrances with this structure fall apart, leaving a very cheap and thin vanilla or amber the last man standing. Penhaligon shows some quality here by avoiding the devolution into the bakery-goods sweetness of many pretenders.

I found a very good deal on a small bottle of Sartorial, and I'm glad to add it to my collection, although, frankly, I don't find it nearly as complex as the notes listing would promise. It does start out with a Brut-like lavender, wood and vanilla dryness, but ultimately it diverges from Brut (I don't get the barbershop powder in Sartorial that is central to Brut's structure) with what I assume is the beeswax filling the center channel.
12th January, 2018 (last edited: 01st September, 2018)
One of my new favorites. In a world of unisex fragrances Sartorial stands out as purely man. It has a very old fashioned smell about it but in a sophisticated way. I get the comparisons to Brut but in a much more luxurious format. What I love about Sartorial is that it is what it is. It doesn't try to be something it's not. Classic alpha man in a well tailored suit comes to mind when I smell Sartorial.
29th July, 2017 (last edited: 13th September, 2017)

Add your review of Sartorial

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Sartorial products online

Search for on eBay

Penhaligon's SARTORIAL 100 mL / 3.3 Oz. Eau De Toilette For Men Unboxed

$74.00
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 10:22:25 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $74.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


penhaligon's London Sartorial Eau de toilette sample spray vial 1.5ml NEW

$6.99
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 12:26:51 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $6.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 3 5 or 10 ml Sample in Glass Spray Atomizer

$9.99
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 14:05:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 3 5 or 10 ml Sample in Glass Spray Atomizer

$14.99
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 14:05:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $14.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 3 5 or 10 ml Sample in Glass Spray Atomizer

$19.99
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 14:05:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $19.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 3 5 or 10 ml Sample in Glass Spray Atomizer

$9.99
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 14:05:44 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial Eau de Toilette, 1.7 fl. oz.

$67.09
End Date: Saturday Oct-20-2018 18:09:02 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $67.09
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon’s SARTORIAL 50 ml - 10% full

$12.00 (0 Bids)
End Date: Sunday Oct-21-2018 12:12:46 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 2ml 10ml or 30ml travel sprayer

$8.00
End Date: Monday Oct-22-2018 13:11:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $8.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 2ml 10ml or 30ml travel sprayer

$8.00
End Date: Monday Oct-22-2018 13:11:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $8.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 2ml 10ml or 30ml travel sprayer

$20.00
End Date: Monday Oct-22-2018 13:11:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $20.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon's Sartorial 2ml 10ml or 30ml travel sprayer

$50.00
End Date: Monday Oct-22-2018 13:11:58 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $50.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


NEW Penhaligon's Sartorial EDT Spray 3.4oz Mens Men's Perfume

$99.75
End Date: Monday Oct-22-2018 18:43:15 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $99.75
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon’s Sartorial New In Box 100ml RRP $229 Eau De Toilette Fragrance

$70.50 (1 Bid)
End Date: Tuesday Oct-23-2018 1:32:50 PDT
Bid now | Add to watch list


Penhaligon’s Sartorial 10ml Glass Travel Spray - Free Sample And Free Shipping

$13.00
End Date: Tuesday Oct-23-2018 7:10:02 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $13.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Member images of Sartorial

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.

Advertisement

Advertisement