The ‘smell of a high end tailor’s shop’ was so hyped on this one when it came out, that people felt inclined to go into rhapsodies about steaming hot irons and offcuts of twill and what have you. Thank goodness I didn’t test it then – who knows, maybe I’d have succumbed to all that nonsense, too.
In any event, I approached Sartorial with caution, applying just a tiny bit first and got quite puzzled with what my poor nose was smelling. It was sweet, it was daddy-o, it was Brut as I remembered it from my teenage years, with what seemed like a massive aromachemicals cloud that threatened to trigger headaches.
However that’s no way to treat a perfume, and so I finally gave it a decent spraying and this, surprisingly, worked much better. Sure the Brut reference was still prominent, but now I could appreciate that this was a somewhat more complex and engineered composition. So beyond the lavender and tonka sweeties which acted as traditional ‘man cologne’ signifiers complete with non-specific woody backing, there were several subordinate notes playing little harmonies from the wings.
A faint hiss of something metallic at the start, a mellowing touch of cardamom in the heart, floral notes, aldehydic and ozonic twists, resinous murmurs, and oh yes, ‘white musk’, yards and yards of it.
Ultimately Sartorial is backward looking, a typically sweet ‘English’ barbershop fougère, and I’ve had my bellyful of those. Still, there is no denying it has been crafted with skill.
Interesting. Like a cross between Brut and Grey Flannel, heavy on the metallic violet leaf and minty lavender. There's an ozone element as well, like the smell of aluminum foil, as well as some cinnamon/mace pie spices. The whole thing comes together to smell like an abstract warm brown mix of woody earth, dank greens, pie, and outer space.
Personally, though I can see how they contribute quite a bit to the modernization and artistry of this scent, I find the ozone distracting and unnecessary, so I'm only voting neutral. Personally, I'll just stick to Brut.
Whenever I hear the word “Sartorial”, I think of the song Victoria by the Fall and substitute “Sartorial” for the chorus, “Victoria”. Sartorial is a complex and updated take on the Fougère genre. Daring in its creation as Fougères are not very popular these days and tinkering with the classic structure that the old guard still wears may not have been the best decision. Despite this, Sartorial triumphs over all these obstacles and Duchaufour has created an outstanding fragrance.
Satorial’s opening is a waft of violet leaf and ginger and some other complementary notes. Smells sophisticated and deep. Hints of black pepper and those heady aldehyde notes chime in as well. The heart deepens with a waxy and slightly sweet Beeswax note combined with lush lavender and leather. Where the heart notes teased with a light sweetness, the base notes bring them to the forefront with tonka, vanilla and amber standing tall. But there is also some moss and woody notes that keep things from going too far into the candy store. Not quite sure what Gurgum wood and “Old wood effect” are but I do know that there’s a new clothes accord that I detect in Sartorial.
In the end, Sartorial is more than the sum of its parts and is definitely in the shortlist of top men’s fragrances to come out in the last 5 years.
Clean and beautifully made...
This is a fragrance which I have no problem loving. As soon as I smelled it I realised it pleased me. For me it's honey and beeswax and lavender, surrounded by green herbs and mossy woods. A very grown up, very "gentleman" like fragrance.
This one gives me the impression of being clean and groomed, like trying on a brand new suit in a shop, which I guess was the intention, given the brief and description of the fragrance (ie that it should smell like a tailor's workshop). I would happily wear this formally. I find nothing wrong with it whatsoever in terms of style and character. It gives me a good feeling to wear. The feeling it gives is gender neutral. Just a lovely, impressive aroma of brand new fabric and of wearing nice clothes. I do find it would suit a well dressed man perfectly, but a woman could pull this off too.
Some people say the smell is old fashioned. I don't. I think it's quite modern. The use of aromachemicals here is very cleverly done, and by a very talented perfumer (Bertrand Duchaufour). I would recommend this one to gentlemen for formal wear, and for anyone who not only likes to be well dressed, but who would like to smell like that too. Very well made. Impressive.
I absolutely love this fragrance! It's warm and inviting with a touch of mystery. It's a perfect fall winter scent! I was wondering if anyone also found The Satorial smells very similar to Lothair?
I wonder if penhaligons description of this fragrance has influenced my judgement but i honestly smell clean linen and engine oil, now this may sound an odd combination and one that shouldn't work but it does..This scent grew on me and by the third time I wore it i was utterly convinced that this is a superb fragrance. I usually like citrus fragrances like trumpers gft but this is a great alternative, I really like the waxy pepper dry down too...a modern classic from penhaligons