Not for me this one. One of the green mossy notes doesn't sit well on my skin and repels me a bit. The dry-down comes not quick enough and after about 4 hours the unpleasantness wears away to reveal some more appealing scents. I really tried to like memoir but it just didn't work out.
It seems to me there are two ways of doing incense. One is the Ellena-esque minimalist style pioneered by Comme des Garcons in their Incense series. Montale Full Incense pretty much conforms to that. The other one is to take incense and mix it up with citrus, spices, woods, resins and deliver a final fragrance that is sumptuous, breathtaking in its depth and intoxicating with its delightful array of notes when done right. Amouage seems to do this better than most, and Memoir Man could almost be a testimony to that fact. What prevents it from being so is the flinty, almost mineral-like direction it takes from about the end of heart phase to its base. The other issue at hand is that it seems to refer to, in its own way, most of the classic masculines of the 70s and the 80s. That is something that unfortunately doesn't work here.
Nonetheless it's still a solid release. As with most Amouages, very good projection and longevity.
Not my thing honestly!. Tried a lot to like it , to understand the typical Amouge complexity as a huge admirer of their work and ingredients being used in perfumes, but after repeated attempts , i am really not impressed.
A clash of notes is apparently making it unwearable , it gets very thick and cloying since the start, cant detect and enjoy the composition.
I will definitely try it again to see if I can wear it.
Memoir Man opens on a wonderfully crisp, camphoraceous, green aromatic accord, with basil and bitter-astringent artemisia leading the charge. A big, big frankincense note rolls up after a few minutes’ wear, and then holds court over the composition for the next hour or so. Among the more recent Amouage releases, only Jubilation XXV matches Memoir Man in its emphasis on frankincense. But where Jubilation XXV sets frankincense against a rich, dense oriental backdrop of spices, resins, and dried fruit, Memoir remains spare, stark, and dry. Indeed, in a line characterized by opulent and heady olfactory textures, Memoir Man stands out as particularly austere.
While it may be severe, Memoir Man is not an opaque or heavy scent. Indeed, by house standards, it’s downright transparent. I find that Memoir Man wears quite close to the skin, and while I wouldn’t call it feeble, I’d have a hard time over-applying it. So long as the frankincense holds sway and the echoes of the opening aromatics linger, I enjoy Memoir Man as a serious, sophisticated – even cerebral – incense composition. It’s when the frankincense recedes and the last remnants of basil and artemisia fade that my affection starts to waver.
If the oakmoss, leather, and tobacco base notes in the pyramid have you anticipating a bold, 1970’s throwback drydown experience, you’ll have to look elsewhere – Epic Man, to be precise. Memoir Man’s drydown is very powdery, with an emphasis on soft woods, clean musk, and a not-too-sweet vanillic amber. The oakmoss is applied with a very light hand, and the leather doesn’t register with me at all. The tobacco is as dry and brittle as the rest of the scent: more discarded cigarette butt than Cuban cigar. The musk employed in Memoir Man flirts dangerously with fabric softener, which is a shame, as it grows progressively dominant over the scent’s final hours. Memoir Man is one of the in fact one of the few Amouage scents I can recall whose base notes smell more suggestive of aromachemicals than anything occurring in nature. The nifty top notes and well-rendered frankincense heart make me want to like this more than I do, but with each wearing ends in an unsatisfying anticlimax.
Absent an interesting drink. Basil and daisy-like plant is very pleasant. Serge Lutens and Amouage elements terrific analogy. I can feel very clear, even mint. This is not as cold as in mint gum, dried mint flavor consistency.
When it comes to middle notes of incense, and I see a dominant oak moss. Vetiver is also already being felt. I think there's also a sage.
When we come to the end of last stayed in the dusty smell like patchouli. Used very little and light of tobacco and vanilla. Odor does not work wonders but good quality.
Top: Absenthe drink, basil, tarragon plants (Asteraceae), Mint.
Heart: lavender, rose, incense.
Base: amber, oak moss, wood Gaiac, Leather, Musk, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla, Vetiver.