A brilliant fragrance! Makes me think of a barn or old house in a russian countryside. To be clear, not an animal type of barn, but the storage kind (leather saddles, old tractor engines, creosote, etc). Also, there is an abundant amount of wormwood growing all over the place on the outside...
I know this one is viewed as a "winter" scent, but I find it quite appealing on cooler, non-humid summer days. Why? Because wormwood is most aromatic and abundant from July through early fall back where I am from (temperate climate zones of Eurasia) Plus the mint in the mix adds to the overall green feel.
And that leather kick (i.e. creosote)? Wow, takes the whole composition to a whole new level. An unforgettable experience and a showstopper for me.
Possibly my favorite Amouage for men, out of the four or five masculines I’ve tried from the house. Memoir Man is quite a sparse perfume – basically a mix of bitter herbs providing a layer of green crunch over dark and smoky Frankincense and a bone-dry, papery cedar. I like its austerity, and unlike the more opulently decorated Amouages, its stretched-out form allows room for each of the materials to “breathe”.
In its treatment of the famous Omani silver frankincense, Memoir is the dramatic inverse of Jubilation XXV: in Memoir, it strips the material back to a smoky, parched, and ashy skeleton, whereas the more affable Jubilation XXV piles on the honey and candied berries to counter the citric bitterness of Frankincense. If Jubilation XXV is Omar Sheriff exploding in fulsome Technicolor on our TV screens, then Memoir Man is Cary Grant in a black and white movie, smoking a cigarette and smiling wryly at poor Jimmy Stewart’s pathetic attempts to steal his woman. He doesn’t speak much, but then, he doesn’t have to.
The opening notes are a vivid one-two punch of minty basil leaf (with its hints of licorice root) and bitterish artemisia (wormwood). Artemisia is a silvery-green Mediterranean shrub that the French use to make absinthe. Absinthe, which until quite recently was illegal because of its reputation for making you hallucinate (or simply die), kind of tastes like Pernod, which is to say like aniseed, but far more bitter.
I see that both artemisia and absinthe are listed in the notes, and really, the opening does have a very pronounced “herbal bitters” flavor to it. To my nose, it is also somehow similar to the snapped-stalk astringency of fresh angelica and rhubarb. This wet, lush botanical greenness is much needed – soon after the opening, in rides this dry, smoky Frankincense and bone-dry woods combo that nearly sucks the moisture out of my airways. The dryness of the woods/incense actually reminds me of Naomi Goodsir’s Bois d’Ascese, which has a similar kind of pitch-black, charred, sooty aroma.
I’m not going to lie – there is also something fairly chemical about this phase, and something about it hurts my nostrils. But the green herbs and stalks from the opening notes are still there, in the background, offering a little flash of cool wetness here and there to relieve my nose. The dry-down is a beautifully smoky cedar, dry and papery, and wholly reminiscent of Dior’s Eau Noire’s dry-down, with its Finnish sauna and hot stones steaminess.
Mysterious, dry as a bone, and smoky as hell – I find myself thinking about Memoir Man long after I’ve finished my sample. I would drape myself over any man debonair enough to wear this.
one of those fragrances that everyone can love or hate it.a contemporary expression of masculinity,in an aura of mint,incense and woods.supremely personal creation from start to end.bitter, heavy,dry,dark,smoky and bold.
It scents instantly transports you to a dark mysterious forest.in fact it is a scent of unusual component .it is for mature&bold man but the scent is tedious for me and definitely i found female version more classy than it.
Longevity?Great on my skin.
Memoir Man is another consistent entry by Amouage, and the first fragrance of theirs I've tried that is both leathery and woody, in addition the possessing the usual smoky incense DNA of the Amouage line. Its opening is a bit sharper than its dry down, but apart from that predictable softening, it is relatively linear, the dominant notes being the wormwood, incense, and vanilla.
Projection and longevity are both stronger than average as far as Amouage and most EDPs go, and this rings mostly as a cold weather night fragrance.
Memoir reminds me of Parfums de Marly's Pegasus in that the wormwood e elements of Memoir are very similar to the anise in Pegasus. It also reminds me of Imaginary Authors' Memoirs of a Trespasser in their similarly powerful incense/vanilla combination. Especially given the availability of IA's MOAT on the market, I'd be hard-pressed to find a reason to purchase Memoir at the standard Amouage price (on Luckyscent: $300 for 100ml, $250 for 50ml) but it's certainly an intriguing take on the ideas explored in Pegasus and MOAT.
If you enjoy the sweet incense vibe, this should be one you try, since you may prefer it to Pegasus or MOAT----I simply prefer MOAT myself.
6 out of 10
Not for me this one. One of the green mossy notes doesn't sit well on my skin and repels me a bit. The dry-down comes not quick enough and after about 4 hours the unpleasantness wears away to reveal some more appealing scents. I really tried to like memoir but it just didn't work out.