Won't give a thumbs up for uniqueness unless I could foresee wearing it. But this is almost the exception. Its the smell of a freshly opened bag of teriyaki beef jerky, smoky (sweet) salt, intermingled with a strange pepper/smoke angle.
Why you would want to smell like that is somewhat mystifying to me; its not really a leathery/masculine/animalic/other evocative words, its just beef jerky. Bridesmaid at a frenemies wedding?
smoky leather.. burnt leather.. I adore leather chypres but I was firing blanks when I bought it, once finished won't be replaced!
Testing a dab-on sample from teardrop (thanks!) on OH and me, we get coal-tar soap from the off; a dried-out creosoted fence; and the dry-down of Guerlain Vetiver/herbs. Nary a bit of leather to be had.
OH had hoped for some tobacco, given other reviews of this scent, but it was not to be.
I do like coal-tar/creosote/phenols but would I want them when I was expecting leather?
Results may differ when sprayed but when dabbed there's no leather.
Mona di Orio’s Cuir starts off with a very tart spiced citrus accord that gives way quickly to the kind of anise and artemisia blend perfumers like to associate with absinthe. The absinthe in turn recedes somewhat in the wake of a very bold, very smoky animalic leather that falls somewhere between an extinguished campfire and a well-worn saddle. It’s not quite the barbecue of, say, Tauer’s Lonestar Memories, but it is at once dark, meaty, and conspicuously charred.
A half an hour on and the citrus, absinthe and spices have disappeared without a trace, leaving a simple, monolithic presentation of the charred leather accord. Your appreciation of this scent will hence depend entirely on whether you enjoy smoke and animalic leather unencumbered by distracting ornament or detail. Your willingness to seek it out will depend on whether you judge its quality superior to other “pure” leather scents. I personally prefer my birch tar and castoreum garnished with contrasting or complimentary flavors, as in Montale’s Oud Cuir d’Arabie, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Dirty Rose, or Durbano’s Black Tourmaline.
Don't know if this was due to luck or skills (unexplicably unexpressed in most of her other scents, then...), but finally, here Mona di Orio wins. This in fact, is a totally intriguing and probably really great scent – even greater than I think, as it is much complex and "vast". Basically, to give you a bold figure naming two rather known scents that just came to my mind while testing Cuir, I would place this exactly halfway between Knize Ten and Parfum d'Empire's Eau de Gloire, as it blends some distinctive elements from both – of course, adding much else of its own. Roughly said, it blends the hieratic, monolithic dusty leather personality of Knize, with a really well-executed balsamic/anisic/earthy accord which is the signature of Eau de Gloire. Spicy, dry, bitter, almost roasted leather, pepper, juniper, tobacco, an amber/vanilla/resinous accord, an oakmoss/patchouli-like accord, and a sharp and clear anisic/liquorice note, which apparently is not in the composition but I still smell it clearly (don't know what it may be due to). The base notes are beautiful, dark and dusty. So multi-faceted it is almost confused, but it just stops a step before collapsing, and magically manages to keep this complex texture together. As minutes pass that anisic/earthy/mossy accord emerges even clearer, together with that splendid roasted leather and tobacco accord with a castoreum heart. Basically a modern shady fougère with just a hint of a fresh balsamic breeze. Quite complex but wearable and beautiful. Not much powerful, but the persistence is good to me. The only con: that "roasted leather feel" may get a bit annoying after a while (and also... better wear it at least 20 minutes before going out).
01st May, 2014 (last edited: 19th May, 2014)