A peculiar gourmand scent with a prominent boozy note, edible cocoa notes, tonka, cardamom, a vanilla base, a crunchy and bitter green accord, a fruity note (melonal like) and flowers, quite bold even if a bit overridden by the gourmand side – I smell carnation, rose, ylang. Overall as I said it's quite peculiar, it's like wandering slightly drunk in a botanical garden eating a piece of chocolate. However there is something which just doesn't work, I am not sure if it's about a dissonance or a wrong balance between the gourmand side and the floral-green notes, they just don't blend together, and it does not look like this is "on purpose" (but that's just my assumption). The fruity note which emerges later does sadly not help, as it kind of "melts" with the sweeter side of the scent getting warm and bit rancid, also because of the slightly oily/waxy tonka-vanillin base. Finally the white musks "roundness" does not help either, adding creaminess to all "that". A bit cloying, overall. In a certain way, the rendition of a slightly drunk mid-afternoon tea in a garden is quite vibrant and realistic, I just don't quite get the point.
1697 that must have been a short year like this fragrance is. My only complaint is the longevity and the price.
A rich rum aroma opens this up, darkish and booze-laden but not very heavy on my skin. A flowery drydown mainly shows jasmin with dried fruit, with a mildly peppery note in the background. Cinnamon is also present a bit later, with tonka and patchouli more evident in the base. Still, there is a good balance overall, even if the ingredients appear a bit disconnected at times. Decent silage and projection, with six hours of longevity. Autumnal without heaviness.
On first application I am getting a shot of rum which gives way to a peppery dried fruit accord. It's spicy and boozy then it becomes more sweet and flowery.
As time moves forward the flowery sweetness becomes a little musky and I can smell patchouli coming into the mix. The fragrance is now becoming soft on the skin and starts to smell like a very soft vanilla with just a hint of pepper and rum.
This is a very complex fragrance with a lot of notes. When you first spray it onto your skin there is a lot of notes coming at you from all directions. But when it settles you get a slightly buttery boozy vanille accord on your skin.
It's a nice fragrance but just a bit all over the place with the different notes before it settles.
1697 starts rich and gourmand, like a richly spiced dough, which then filled with plums and other dried fruits makes a great rich sweet tart. If you then add vanilla custard to it... voilá! Sorry, for the tart metaphor but ever since I sprayed 1697 on my wrist I thought of that particular delicacy. It is not bad at all, it is just too sweet for me. It reminds me of Mitsouko but this is not as much of a problem for me as is the linear character of this concoction. THe complexity implied by the long list of ingredients leaves me baffled because not being an expert nose I should just assume that this is a gem ... alas I see a very perfumy and a bit pretentious old-money wannabe (sorry again because I seem to describe a person not a perfume). Why so derogative you may ask? ... I think it is the chemical accord I get before the dry down that somehow makes 1697 cheap pretending to be expensive... although it may in fact be very expensive indeed. Overall a bit disappointed with 1697. I am not giving it a thumb down because as oriental, gourmand perfumes are not my forte I am probably too harsh. Potency, silage: powerful. Four hours after application, and after a lot of washing in the sauna, 1697 is still present! Wearable I think only in the evening and late night and only if you like this genre!
By the way doesn't Serge Lutens, and indeed some others too, offer for years now some great oriental and/or gourmand creations? Where is the niche in this one?