Such a bold statement to combine these very different notes to arrive at a new accord that is deeply soft, warm, overripe resinous and animalic, while maintaining accepability due to the nice balance of ingredients. Balance is something you come to accept with Francis Kurkdjian's fragrances because his palette is always artistically tuned to balance. Absolue Pour Le Soir plunges deep into the primal animal senses with a striking urinous note that remains sharp and present to balance the big fluffy sueded sweetness of benzoin and honey. As in food combining for adventurous tastes, tartness directly against sweetness is an irresistable flavor combination. This combination in Absolue Pour le Soir is why I give this fragrance a thumbs up for this clever and very compelling combination. Many mention civet in the fragrance and it might well be there, but I believe the animalic tone comes from the contrasts of rose honey with cumin and how incredily this combines with the soft and low register of rough powdery benzoin. This perfume is a beautiful work of art that is oddly compelling because there are aspects to criticize, but the sum of the parts really works for an interesting experience. I rate it 3 of 5 stars for wearability, but 5 of 5 stars for artistic creativity.
A rich, opulent, thick and satisfying assault of oriental delight from start to finish.
Even the transitions between top/middle/base are filled with layers (if that makes sense!).
The notes are geometrically parallel in a way that you could smell every single note.
Honey, benzoin, cumin, rose and a smokey incense base all feeding off each other in a relentless broadway performance where no one has the leading role... yet everyone does.
The smokey incense has the last word in the drydown, but everyone else is still there on the stage.
Loud and proud. No hidden notes or tricks. What you smell is what you get. Take it or leave it.
Me? I'll take it.
19th August, 2014 (last edited: 20th August, 2014)
Absolue pour le Soir is a classical – even classicizing – amber oriental fragrance, distinguished by the balance of its sweet balsamic and smoky, animalic facets. It is cousin to scents like Ambre Russe, Ambre Précieux, Ambre Sultan, and L’Ombre Fauve, to name but a few genre contemporaries. It is less boozy than Ambre Russe and far more overtly animalic than Ambre Précieux, though to my nose rather less so than Ambre Sultan or L’Ombre Fauve. It is perhaps the most obviously floral composition of this little clan, yet not so much so that I’d be uncomfortable wearing it in public as a man.
This fragrance largely eschews conventional top notes and gets right down to business with a sweet, spicy, animalic blend of honey, cumin, benzoin-based amber, and rose. The rose employed here has a jammy, liqueur-like quality, which accentuates the boozy tang of the amber. Woody base notes are assertive enough to counter any gourmand tendencies, and despite its sweetness, the composition never feels overtly foody. The development is relatively linear, and sillage and projection are both ample. As might be deduced from its content, Absolue pour le Soir is also a tenacious fragrance. A few sprays ought to last you the whole soir long. The drydown, when it arrives, is an exceptionally smoky mélange of sandalwood and cedar.
After some acquaintance, Absolue pour le Soir feels well-made and even mildly provocative, if not particularly innovative. I’m rather taken with this fragrance myself, but whether you choose it from among the crowded field of high quality niche amber orientals will be a matter solely of personal taste.
Oh, the opening ain't pretty. The urinous aspects of honey are played up to the max here. It smells musky, and dark, and utterly wrong, like when you walk through a passageway at night and you realize that the town drunk has been there a couple of hours before you and has left his "mark". Honey actually smells a bit like that. Heavy, strong, pissy, deep, and straddling the boundaries between sweet innocence and the arse end of the bee. Every time I wear a little bit from my sample, I spend the first half hour regretting my choice. I loudly proclaim, "Hell NO, Francis! You are not getting me to part with my hard-earned cash for what smells like soiled underpants and stale piss, I'm no fool me!"
But I AM a fool, me. Because what happens after the horrific start is wonderful. Entrancing even. It is the smell of burning incense, real smoke and all, and the rich, pounding thrum of benzoin and other dark resins. The honey stops being so pissy and mellows out to a warm, sweet, musky base. It is strongly animalic, but thankfully it is not suggestive of the business end of a bee now, but rather the dirty musks of sweaty barn animals, in fact, reminiscent of Muscs Khoublai Khan with its cozy, animal-fur feel. It is delicious, warm, filthy dirty, resinous and extraordinarily sensual. I can't top sniffing myself. Me want.
This is a really nice fragrance.
The opening is a strong resinous incensy scent with some sweetness in the background.
You can clearly smell the resins and the incense note that give that resinous scent a dark and almost powdery ashy feeling.
They sweetness is very warm, sensual and smell like honey.
The opening does have a very strong masculine aroma, but that honey sweetness give the scent a really nice and smart kick and push the scent to the unisex side!
After a while and in the dry down, the incense and resin combo settle down and the honey sweetness become stronger. now the woods, caraway, small amount of rose kick in and all of them give the scent much more depth and character.
It's quite pleasing that because of great quality and really good balance of the notes, you can smell all of them!
In the base the rose note which was weak at the mid, disappears and all other notes are in the background.
The yummy and sensual honey sweetness dominate in the base and all the notes which are in the background, give the scent a very beautiful aroma.
Projection is good and longevity is great. 12+ hours on skin without any doubt.
A really good sensual and at the same time strange and dark fragrance with good quality and great balance of the notes.