Perfume Directory

Leather Oud (2010)
by Christian Dior

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Leather Oud information

Year of Launch2010
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 230 votes)

People and companies

HouseChristian Dior
PerfumerFrançois Demachy
Parent CompanyLVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton

About Leather Oud

François Demachy:

Oud wood exudes aromas of Leather when it is burned. It is an astonishing, very animal-like scent... Oud inspired me to make it the focus of an intense, woody Leather fragrance. A very masculine fragrance bursting with character.

Leather Oud fragrance notes

Reviews of Leather Oud

This is a tough one.

It's a fragrance that I can appreciate. I can smell the history in it. To smell this is to understand something deep and contextual regarding all fragrance. But I have a tough time wearing it.

Many reviews exclaim this as dirty. Many as masculine.

I don't see this as smelling dirty as much as smelling old. I feel decades older wearing this. I'm in my 30s (for reference).

It also doesn't really push the 'masculine' envelope either. I can definitely tell I'm wearing a unisex fragrance. If anything it opens on the feminine side.

It's called 'Leather Oud'. It neither commits to a deep oud nor a complex leather. If I want oud, I have it better in another fragrance. Likewise for leather.

It performs well. If I liked how it smells that would be a strength.

It's a neat one to have in my collection as a small decant. It helps me understand other fragrances better. But it is more a tool of a collector than it is a signature scent for a man.

Scent: 3/10

Longevity: 9/10

Sillage: 9/10
12th September, 2018
I am not privy to very many "Privé" scents, and am excluded from most "exclusifs" mainly due to prices, which can be comparable to cherished discontinued scents even when new, but through the good fortune and kind hearts that have smiled upon me, I have access to this very vivid piece of perfume art. With that having been said, I'm going to be bluntly honest: this is far from a holy grail that everyone needs in their life, nor is it even appropriate for many occasions, and like most really antique vintages, is so far out of fashion that only hobbyists and lovers of either oud or leather would even dare wear it. Perhaps this "no compromise" nature is why it is part of the Privé Collection, as it's expense coupled with it's limited appeal make it a personal artistic expression from perfumer François Demachy that you can buy, rather than a product expecting a given level of success to exist. Regardless, it's a virile, sweet, potent, and challenging piece of perfumery that may become your personal savior from modern doldrums if your nose never left the 60's chypres, 70's aromatic fougères, or 80's powerhouses.

For starters, this is very masculine despite being a classical unisex perfume, and although daring women can more than execute this well, I have a feeling this is calling fans of sex-dripping masculine-leaning scents from the late Edmond Roudnitska like Moustache Rochas (1949), Eau d'Hermés (1951) or even early YSL masculines like Yves Saint Laurent Pour Homme (1971) and Kouros (1981). I exclude most 80's powerhouses from comparison due to moss not being a part of this, save maybe Lapidus Pour Homme (1987) because a similar civet/civetone underwear funk is here despite that note not being listed by Dior. The very simple note breakdown here is almost all wood, with Indonesian oud and a leather note reminiscent of Aramis (1965) minus the aldehydes stealing the show. This baby is in no need of aldehydes, rest assured, as that fat oud/leather top sing a duet during the entire act on their own, with the other woods such as guaiac, sandal, and cedar being the backup band. If François Demachy had truly wanted this more unisex, a small pinch of jasmine may have solved the issue.

This is dirty, oh so very very dirty, but also sweet, with almost a dried honey-like resinous tone that keeps the finish from being like other ouds and burning your nostrils with an acrid fireplace smell. I also notice this oud doesn't get quite so dark as others I've tried, and the agarwood here isn't just tacked onto a burly palette to disguise it's quantity (or quality for that matter), like many more commercial oud-themed flankers. Christian Dior Leather Oud is really exactly that, and it doesn't dress up that raw animal magnetism one bit, giving a fight or flight reaction to those around the wearer. If you're the type who affectionately calls your favorite fragrance "stink juice", this might be your new best friend. As for me, some days I want to smell like Bounce dryer sheets, and I wear an aquatic for those days, but then sometimes I want to smell like the Amsterdam Red Light District in summer, and this takes me there for what is still less than a plane ticket from the US. Use wherever and whenever, this one knows not about being well-behaved anywhere.
21st February, 2018 (last edited: 22nd February, 2018)
I really am lost for words. This is a work of art. It's not just a fragrance. This juice is alive and living. It's so alive that it almost scares the shit out of me. It is VERY strong. It is an acquired taste. It can smell very dirty. Almost the wrong side of dirty.

Why the neutral vote????? As much as I appreciate what Dior have done with this I just can't see an occasion when I would feel the need to pull this one out!!

UPDATE
After much consideration and sampling I have to give this a thumbs downs. It's just too dirty. I just don't want myself or anyone around me smelling like this.
03rd October, 2017 (last edited: 07th November, 2017)
Strong smell of civet. It is a good fragrance to wear once in a while, but I couldn't wear it every day so the huge bottle is too much. Longevity is out of this world and one or two sprays is more than enough for a whole day. It is far better than Tuscan Leather and Noble Leather. I don't agree that the leather part is dirtier than Tuscan Leather though. Currently, it is only available in 125ml at the smallest, you can get it decanted in smaller amounts. 125ml cost £125 in 2012 and now it is £200!
01st April, 2017 (last edited: 05th August, 2017)
One of my all time favourites. It lasts for hours, and the civet note makes me feel grounded and powerful, like a sensual Arabian panther!
11th March, 2017 (last edited: 05th December, 2017)
Being number 16 in a series of 16 reviews on critically acclaimed and noteworthy scents.

Applied at first with great caution, and thereafter with growing confidence. This is largely because, having tried it, I quickly came to understand LO as a type of leather scent with "oud" as a supporting character. This is perhaps an observation on the naming of scents, as the convention in English is to have the noun following the adjectives; thus here, one would understand this to be a "leathery oud", rather than what I think it is, which is an oudy leather. (I do get the feeling that the use of ingredients or notes in names is often simply meant to signify that they are present, and less often to signify a type or genre.)

So in this case, I would say something like Or Black would be a better comparison than a Western oud-driven scent. This is just as well for me, as the oud, which I nearly always find to be too cloying and invasive for my tastes, is blended extremely well here and contributes to the dry earthiness of the other accords. I would concur that the later stages of LO tend to the animalistic, but acceptably so and never unpleasant to my nose. It tends to bring out the woody rather than cloying aspects of oud.

Although I cannot say that I would immediately be in the market for LO, it is a genuinely exciting creative achievement in the way that it can be so agreeable and yet so uncompromising. All in all, I would recommend to leather lovers; also, that they should apply with restraint at first, but that it might reward heavier application if you get on with it. Family reactions: taken-aback rather than repulsed. Another win for the blending of the Dior privee lines. Now to try the Floris namesake - perhaps an A/B test would be appropriate?
15th January, 2017

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