A grand floriental, dreamy and lush, is the opening impression of this perfume. A gorgeously nectary ylang (similar to the starring note in Perris’s soliflore) holds the centre ground, ringed with gourmand accents of booze and orange, deepened by heavier notes of clove and smoky guaiac, all soaking though into a woody base which has a creamy sandalwood as its quality turn. A seamless composition, blending bracing, fresh notes with richer, dirtier ones in the manner of classic perfumery. The orange and petitgrain (with its suggestion of citrus leaf) accord is a particular point of interest, always just there, lifting the congregation of other notes with its brightness. It hangs on for a good three or four hours, after which the perfume grows mellower and just a shade sweeter.
And as for the vanilla? Well, as an eager cook I’ve smelled plenty of freshly split pods and, despite what the PR may assert, they ain’t to be found here. What one does get is an abiding vanilla base note that is fine in the mix but hardly the star. The only reason why this may matter is due to the name of this perfume; disregard it and enjoy its many pleasures instead.
This has vanilla, tonka, and amber without being too sweet, with just a touch of typical tonka powderiness, and equal time for some boozy, woody aspects that give it character. There's a savory aspect in the opening I liked, and I also get an impression of cola that works well.
Textured as Silk.
Breath of Angels hits Skin.
Cream across the Pallette.
Music,Carthasis of Orgasm.
Top Shelf This.
This is a dry, not sweet, woody vanilla with a touch of incense. Petitgrain serves to cut through any sweetness that there might have been, & lends a delicate citrus-floral edge to the opening. As it develops, a leathery undertone becomes apparent, along with rum & clove notes, & the guiac wood rapidly becomes more pronounced, smoky & dark. One hour in, the vanilla fades slightly, blending into a backdrop of smoky, woody, salty, soft leather; thankfully not the barbecued, meaty leather found in Di Orio's Cuir. The projection is good until around five hours in, but the scent lasts a decent twelve hours before fading out altogether.
There are parts of this fragrance that remind me by turns of both Memoirs of a Trespasser; another boozy, woody vanilla, & the smoky-sweet drydown of Habanita. As stated elsewhere, this is not really a vanilla fragrance in the classical sense. There is a lot more going on here than gourmand sweetness, & it is very nice indeed, but if I were to add another vanilla to my collection, it would probably be Memoirs...
I really like this! I run away when I sense sweet, gourmand vanilla, but this is something entirely different. This vanilla is bone dry, but it is still a very beautiful vanilla. It is surrounded by spices, probably cloves and cinnamon and a little bit of fruit. But vanilla itself is the star.
It is certainly among my top five masculine/unisex orientals. Good silage and longevity as well.