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Eau d'Ikar (2011)
by Sisley

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Eau d'Ikar information

Year of Launch2011
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 38 votes)

People and companies

HouseSisley

About Eau d'Ikar

Eau d'Ikar is a masculine fragrance by Sisley. The scent was launched in 2011

Eau d'Ikar fragrance notes

Reviews of Eau d'Ikar

Sisley bugs me a bit as a house, because they play the same niche-by-virtue pricing game as many smaller European perfumers simply by doubling their prices in foreign markets like the US. It's very tedious for local shops that have to sell a fragrance for $180 dollars when it can be had online for half that at MSRP from global shops, or even less from discounters. Similar to a lesser extent as houses like Creed that sell for triple what they go for in the home market, Sisley has the mindset that blowing smoke rings up the keisters of the tech nouveau-niche and adding a zero to the tag will snow them into thinking their fragrances are a cut above the Diors and YSLs being peddled at the local Macy's when they really aren't. With that mindset in hand, I went into testing Eau d'Ikar (2011), the first proper masculine fragrance from the house. The gorgeous bottle is offset by a designeresque plastic sprayer-in-cap format, belying the niche prestige whateveryoucallit the house wants to communicate. Supposedly, this took 20 years to develop and is based mostly around the tears of the mastic trees (lentisus) near the home of Sisley's founding family. Perfumer Larent Bruyere is listed here, but I doubt he devoted twenty years of his life developing Eau d'Ikar considering he's done a ton of work for Thierry Mugler and Costume National among other assorted houses since the 90's. Once you separate fiction from fact, what you get isn't a bad scent, but basically just in line with other dry green citric grassy scents that can be found in department stores or perfume shops for less.

Eau d'Ikar opens with a strong mastic over dry bergamot and orange peel, almost registering like old MEM English Leather (1949) without the aldehydes and isobutyl quinoline sourness. This is a very old-fashioned dryness right in line with mid-century chypre thinking and I like it a lot; this is serious, resolute, and reminds me a bit of the waxier aspects of castoreum without the crotch funk of the real deal. Dry lemon and the odd chojce of carrot seeds add an earthy vegetal feel which transitions into a stiff iris note joined with a bit of violet, continuing the grassy and semi-powdery feeling into the heart with the listed tea note not found, still serious and still interesting. It is the base where things are revealed to not be what is claimed, when mastic (which supposedly exists in all three tiers) merges with vetiver, sandalwood, oakmoss, and labdanum to reassert itself in a green chypre finish but instead waylaid in ambroxan, evernyl, and Iso E Super rather than built up with the real stuff to make the expected chypre effect. I know IFRA had something to do with this and the cost of real sandalwood is prohibitive outside artisinal houses, but no attempt was even made to simulate the stuff, like the perfumer just went home after the top and heart notes were finished. The stuff is still pleasant but the collapse on skin relegates this to little more than a mastic-flavored modern vetiver scent in the end. Something like this feels as if it would pass muster most in warmer weather, but has enough fake woods to push into early fall as well, but is a bit too formal for day to day use.

The longevity and sillage are what really seal the deal on this from being a positive to an ambivalent experience for me, as this "English Vetiver" with the lentiscus semi-animal tone and strange carrot note poofs from being detectable after only a few hours, with the skin scent lingering longer but not much. Likely due to the nose-blinding Iso E and ambrox notes, at $20 this would be a cheap thrill worth reapplying, and at $50 worth some serious thinking, but even at European MSRP is a bit of a letdown and at what Sisley wants for US customers, rather insulting. Nabbing a bottle of Lalique Encre Noir (2006) from a discounter is a much better value for an admittedly less-complex but better-performing take on the style, while something like Terre d'Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver by Hermès (2018) smacks this poor petulant child of a fragrance up and down the schoolyard and still costs a bit less. I don't know, maybe this has its fans and I tried really hard to get excited about this because I love the idea of a mastic-forward scent, plus carrot in the note pyramid just sounded so interesting, but it really is all about the base when it comes to perfumes in this price range since that's what you will smell the longest. An interesting concept on paper, with interesting packaging and a mostly-traditional dry masculine composition, Sisley Eau d'Ikar just feels like a show cancelled after ending the season on a cliffhanger, and I'm not okay with that for what they expect to charge me. Neutral
12th July, 2019



Horse Chestnut Tree in Blossom by Vincent van Gogh 1887
15th September, 2018
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
The citrus opening blast is quite nice, with a hint of bigarrade-style bitterness initially. The drydown is more mediocre, a floral jasmine-iris combination that leads to rather generic woody vetiver base.

Overall after the too notes it is lol a bit unexciting. Soft sillage, adequate projection and three hours of longevity in my skin. Pleasant on cooler summer days, albeit disappointing overall. 2.5/5
29th January, 2015
The opening of Eau d'Ikar is quite peculiar: notes of nutmeg, bergamot, a bold, sticky, warm rendition of lentiscus which smells halfway castoreum, candied dry fruits and saliva, oak moss (or better said its plain synthetic brother, evernyl), green notes, an aromatic base of spicy woods, quite sweet and warm (sandalwood, vetiver). Then vanilla, perhaps flowers (carnation?), a few spices, and a balsamic breeze all over. At first I did not even notice orris root and carrot, but then they slowly arise becoming after a while the most prominent accord, in a way that from a weird green-fruity-animalic scent it turns into a more ordinary waxy-warm powdery fragrance, where orris and carrot strongly contrast (and finally "win over") lentiscus and the initial fruity-green notes. Overall there is something I don't like here, either the consistency of lentiscus, which is weirdly soft, almost "liquid" in a kind of sickening way to my nose, or the fact that overall the fragrance smells a bit confused. It's basically a lentiscus-green galore which then turns into an iris-carrot powdery scent, with a clumsy and a bit out-of-the-blue transition which I do not appreciate much. Plus, the general quality of the materials (all of them) does not smell particularly good to me, it's all a bit weak and lacking in depth and "substance", but for nowadays' standards that is really not the first concern . I get it's all about my personal feeling so perhaps others may appreciate this – I just find it a bit messy and clumsy.

5,5-6/10
02nd July, 2014
Where's the 'meh' button? I first smelled this when I was living in Lyon back in 2011 and I so wanted it to be more than it is. I wanted it to be innovative, but instead it lacks imagination and takes absolutely no risks. For me, Eau d'Ikar leaves no lasting impression. I read somewhere that this fragrance was ten years in the making. If that is true, I think the scent suffers from over-thinking and compulsive revision --in an effort to make it well rounded and internally consistent, Eau d'Ikar has been edited down to the point where 'tasteful' reads as bland and inert. Also, curiously, this fragrance is almost twice as expensive in the US as it is in France. C'est dommage.
10th March, 2013
Opens with a citric and generic smell, then turns to something woody/sweety and when you begin to smell the base notes, it just disappears. Definetely not worth its price, since there are much better options with a much better price. Thumbs down.
20th November, 2012

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Eau D'ikar 3.3 oz Eau De Toilette Spray by Sisley for Men

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