Several of Lorenzo Villoresi’s fragrances open on cacophonous assemblies of clashing notes that only organize themselves into coherent accords after some time on the skin. Theseus, in contrast, launches directly into a crisp, harmonious, and uplifting accord of bergamot and lemon, then settles quickly upon a straightforward hesperidic fougère formula of citrus, coumarin, and lavender. As citrus fougères go, Theseus hews to the light and simple side, with an imphasis upon the citrus, rather than aromatic herbs, moss, or woody notes. The advantages of this uncomplicated approach include an air of unambiguously sunny good cheer and an unusually clear expression of the fundamental fougère structure. The downside is a certain lack of character that risks flagging interest over long periods of wear.
Speaking of extended wear, one point regarding Theseus is very much worth mentioning. I shares with a very few hesperidic scents –Monsieur Balmain and CK One come to mind – exceptionally tenacious citrus notes. So if you enjoy citrus scents, but find traditional eaux de Cologne formulae too ephemeral, or if you’re looking for a citrus fougère that’s less complicated, dense, or confrontational than say, Lauder for Men or Tuscany Uomo, Theseus is worth a try. It may be hard to get excited about, but it’s easy to like and easy to wear.
Theseus, namely mediterranean silky humid class on the same sphere with Keiko Mecheri Taormine and in line with some Mark Buxton-Eau d'Italie-Xerjoff's olfactory performances (nuances of Black Angel, Baume du Doge and Casamorati Fiero jump indeed on mind for instance despite the sheer unquestionable differences among the overmentioned concoctions). I appreciate this type of scents, in particular the (barely) balmy/woody humidity, the dry freshness, the subtle class and distinguished elegance. The aroma is soon luxurious, hesperidic, spicy and green aromatic in order to morph towards a silky musky/leathery direction with a wonderful bitter/soapy undertone and a plain vetiver dominant dry down. The sweet spices are cleverly combined with soothing balsams and iris in order to provide an almost balmy accomodation for resins and woods. I detect the vetiver for sure which is soothed by soft musk and powdery/soapy iris (iris, vanilla, amber-benzoin) but the magistral sleight of hand is represented by a marvellous herbal tobacco bitter twist supported by spicy and floral undertones. I don't catch a marine type of saltiness for sure but a typical citrus/vetiver/woods/leather ostensibly salty (almost metallic) "backstage", just that. The (by balsams) tamed green/medicinal leather dry down is simply gorgeous. Frankly I find Theseus an excellent civilized (spicy/soapy/leathery) vetiver which I appreciate for its smooth silkiness, the measure, the complexity and the virile and humid bitter tobacco aftertaste (with a vague conjuration about juices a la SMN Acqua di Cuba, Berkana Torre of Tuscany and Cigar by Remy Latour- all humid, cool, yellow/white and musky). The final fresh vegetal soapiness (soft "white" vetiver-dominant-, smooth leather-accessorial) is simply to die for. Recommend.
Pleasant and classic opening, even a bit "retrò", of spices, suede leather, citrus notes, translucent but dense and with a bold salty/metallic undertone. Green/mossy counterpart of oak moss, vetiver and patchouli, elegant and dusty, which emerges more and more strongly as minutes pass, until it basically becomes a straightforward, refined, pleasant, aerial and modern vetiver, still slightly salty and aquatic, really pleasant and fresh. A subtle animalic note with amber and vanilla enriches the base, which eventually becomes drier on leather and oud (however much subtle and delicate). A sort of light, contemporary vetiver-based fougère with just a hint of "trendy" (Iso E, oud), that basically smells like a self-tribute made by Villoresi to his 1994's Vetiver - which was however richer, darker, rougher, earthier and more classic (in short, for me: better). However this Theseus is really nice to wear, surely well-made and balanced; an elegant "crowdpleaser" which may suit any vetiver fan as well as any man who wants to smell classy and good, yet not boring or mainstream. Decent persistence.
09th May, 2014 (last edited: 10th May, 2014)
Theseus is clearly the starting point from which Lorenzo Villoresi developed his fragrance *Forever Now* for the Gucci Museo. It strikes as a woody aromatic composition with a remarkable green / herbal element and subtle / undefined floral patterns. Fresh and spicy, perfectly unisex, very easy to like, not overly complicated and with a decent lasting power. Personally I'm not excited but I can see this becoming a great all-rounder for anyone looking for an easy-wear which takes the distance from the sticky sportsy fragrances available on the market.
I'll stick to *Forever Now* which I find overall more refined, more vetiver prominent (which is always a plus in my book) and with nicer spicy-floral patterns.
Green/ Spicy..nice in hot weather, good sillage and duration.