Perfume Directory

Cuir Mandarine (2011)
by David Jourquin


Cuir Mandarine information

Year of Launch2011
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
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HouseDavid Jourquin

About Cuir Mandarine

Cuir Mandarine is a shared / unisex perfume by David Jourquin. The scent was launched in 2011

Reviews of Cuir Mandarine

rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom
There is a restrained tangerine-like note in he opning that is mixed with a slightly spicy counterpart, forming a pleasant start. Soon an acceptable lavender is added on, and later on I get a somewhat attenuated leather note also. It is a patchouli-leathery note, with the patchouli clearly dominating, and the leather being very soft, a touch like suede and quote ephemeral on my skin

The base is a touch more interesting with its tobacco note; but unfortunately it does not go beyond that of a third-rate overflavourised pipe tobacco. The other main component in the base is the patchouli again, still very soft and smooth. The perfomance is not bad, with soft-to-moderate sillage, adequate projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

This is not a bad scent, quite pleasant, but also pretty generic and synthetically unexciting, a mainstream, average department-store designer-like product. These characteristics make me leave it at a neutral score in total. 2.75/5.
15th December, 2015
David Jourquin Cuir Mandarine is basically a powdery/musky/resinous patchouli. The latter is "fat", smooth, ambery and temperamental, never particularly angular, earthy or sharp in my humble experience on skin. Cuir Mandarine opens with a vibrant accord of aromatic/splashing lavender (the main theme along the first five minutes of trip), earthy-spicy patchouli (black pepper is quite piquant under my nose in the top while earthiness is fleeting), (almost oily) mandarine and unmistakable synthetic tobacco. The latter, merged with the mandarine's substantial fruitiness, is one of the two main themes of the whole story. I have to say that probably the real protagonist is actually this fruity/musky central patchouli conjuring me far more sort of dense musky (slightly fleshy/resinous or animalic patchoulies a la Mazzolari Lui, Nobile 1942 Patchouli Nobile, Lutens Borneo 1834, La Via del Profumo Patchouli or Il Profvmo Patchouli Noir) than sharper spicy/fougere-like aromatic patchoulies a la Givenchy Gentleman, Yosh Sombre Negra, MPeG Parfum d'Habit or Guerlain Heritage. Finally the leather emerges strictly connected to fruity-spicy tobacco (a la Don Corleone La Via del Profumo) and patchouli while the aromatic piquancy (still anyway lurking around) progressively starts receding. The connection between leather, tobacco, patchouli and mandarine is responsible of the typical aroma of this juice. It seems to detect a floral (neroli-like) presence as subtle undertone. Honestly I find this fragrance pleasant, decently constructed, basically simplistic, not particularly evolving and tolerable on its synthetic approach (quite ordinary and never disturbing or overly on the edge). It seems to detect hints of resinous smoky frankincense on my skin. Dry down smells like a really musky, warm, leathery-resinous and dense mandarine/patchouli accord surrounded by an almost exotic mellowness provided by musky-fruity tobacco, resins and powder. I'm sure amber is combined in the mix with its charge of woody cedary powder. The final envelop is warm and sexy, quite elegant and virile. Probably dry down is kind of "collapsing" and is not ideal for all those looking for a more structured aroma (I get also a sort of sultry-greasy tad of acidity on skin) but the aroma is still in its complex pleasant and sexy. A solution for all the lovers of those fat/dense (orange/brown) patchoulies around.
22nd November, 2015 (last edited: 06th January, 2019)
There’s not a lot of leather on show here, and if this is supposed to be mandarine, it’s failing in that department too. But, once you get past the disingenuous name, the overall scent doesn’t smell too shabby. It’s clearly aiming for a kind of refined, but generic businessmen approach as it comes off quite serious and grown-up.

I’d describe it as a gourmand marmalade style preserve — vaguely stewed and slightly bitter oranges with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and various other spices. When it does venture toward leather, it’s more of the “new car spray” variety, spiraling the perfume into somewhat meh territories. Even though the composition appears complex, it starts to come apart a little too fast to reveal some fairly expected and predictable tricks beneath. This could have been better if it weren’t so hung up on being “refined” and “classy” and maybe showed a bit of adventure. As it stands, it’s a predictable mall-style scent with some extra shine.
04th March, 2015
Cuir Mandarin opens with a bitter, herbal patchouli paired with something silky-dusty and slightly sweet (I thought of some synthetic, “cashmerish” wood, but it must be rather ambroxan as it’s more ambery than woody), then cloves, a citric note, and something metallic, pungent, slightly dirty, a bit salty-sweaty, and overall not really that pleasant to smell on yourself. I get the lavender (just a barbershop soapy feel) and the tobacco note, which will emerge better after some 30/40 minutes, and it’s a really conventional, a bit unsubstantial synthetic tobacco note with that sweetness you find in many (way) cheaper tobacco scents. Nothing “cuir” really, except for the cloves perhaps, but it does indeed remind me of several ‘90s fougères – the cheaper ones; I get the attempt to look “dignified” and refined, but honestly this smells all... too low-mainstream quality to succeed. On the drydown Cuir Mandarin becomes basically a tobacco-lavender “barbershop” scent with herbs, dusty patchouli and spices on amber. Something like a sort of cheaper, thinner, more boring Guerlain’s Héritage. Pathetic price.

27th February, 2015
Best in show

This one has grown on me. I was mildly disappointed initially only to start liking it after some full wearings. Very well blended with a seemless interplay of orange and blond tobacco at the core. My misgivings on what I thought was becoming a tiresome orange and tobacco accord were put aside the more I wear the stuff. There is something very classy about Cuir Mandarine. One of the few uber niche fragrances I could safely see the average joe wear and actually like it. So full marks for being warm and approachable . Still the fact remains , this style of fragrance seems to become boring and lacks depth or complexity. Very safe and maybe good for more formal events rather than a casual setting.

Pros: seductive , rich , masculine, alluring
Cons: expensive , black touch is similar at a fraction of the price"

01st August, 2013
Agree with EDJA on the longevity. Important to note that, despite the name, this scent has essentially nothing do do with leather beyond the packaging of the bottle. What it is is a potent and FRESH (where I find it bottle-worthy is in the wonderful citris top) patchouli blend! The official notes list several different patchouli varieties in all phases of the dry down, and the combo is smooth and sophisticated without being head-shoppy. Along with Dior's Patchouli imperial and HdP Noir Patchouli, this is a great scent for path lovers that prefer the saltier, woodier qualities of the plant but sweetened with the signature mandarin note. Not ground-breaking, but very nice.
18th March, 2013

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