The top notes come on aldehydic, and almost chalky. Gradually it subsides into a soft but subtle and remarkably dry accord of tuberose, vetiver, and the least sweet coconut I've ever encountered ( quite a world away from Carnal Flower ).
The sillage on this is quite remarkable to my nose: it is beautifully light and diffuse, like an eau de toilette, yet it endures like a heavier eau de parfum. It's the most airy tuberose encountered, yet it lasts. Apollonian tuberose, painted with watercolor.
Though I'm a wear-what-you-want, when-you-want type, if you love tuberose and need a classy tuberose soliflore for work that's subtle yet lasts, get this.
Such a sophisticated and complex fragrance. It is very different from other tuberose fragrances out there. Earthy, green and interesting. I can't get enough of it. I love the way the peppery note is overtaken by a delicate tuberose when it dries down.
The tuberose note in Tubereuse is surprisingly toned down, barely perceptible as part of a citrusy-powdery white floral. Granted, I've never smelt actual tuberose but this fragrance doesn't feature any of the two faces of tuberose common in perfumery - neither the lushly indolic nor the weirdly, chemically candy-sweet. Perhaps it's more the Fracas "type" - I have only a vague recollection of the scent but I think it's powdery like Tubereuse, though with a much more pronounced tuberose note.
As Tubereuse warms up and melllows on skin the florals melt into a general creaminess. Hiddena at the heart of the composition is a spicy tang I can't quite identify as Mona di Orio's signature civet but which nevertheless radiates an animalwarmth - perhaps cumin? As it's not clearly discernible it never gets obscene. I find this intriguingly elusive animalic note to be the best thing about the fragrance, but unfortunately it soon disappears completely as the composition turns from creamy to sugary. It ends up candy-sweet, not in the fashion typical for tuberose (think Tubereuse Criminelle, Narciso Rodriquez or Histoire des parfums) but in a powdery way that reminds me quite a bit of Habit Rouge.
A completely different take on tuberose . I watched a youtube interview of Mona saying how she came up with the 'story' for her Tubereuse . She was inspired by her own tuberose plant - the smell of it at night kept her from sleeping .
This tuberose scent has been described as not a night blooming flower but as a twilight one- greener ,earthier and less lush .
The opening is a spicey ,earthy pink pepper and bergamot explosion- it's very vivid - doesn't disappear quickly and slowly, little peeps of a sweet tuberose come through . The tuberose is not wild and overwhelming but it's smooth and quieter.
In the dry down as the white florals take over, this scent reminds me of Fracas in pure parfum extrait- rich ,smooth ,quiet ,golden and humming along with your heartbeat.
This is not a just a soliflore but a scent story of a tuberose plant ,flowers and all . It's still very much in the Mona di Orio style . It's not squeaky clean , quite french and sophisticated.
12th March, 2012 (last edited: 13th March, 2012)
First sniff I thought Rubj and their openings are alike, but Mona's Tubereuse is a revelation. Decidedly not sweet like Rubj and good deal less expensive, thankfully. While definitely a tubereuse it is so much quieter, really a lovely hypnotic scent that has good but not over powering sillage. As I move my arm I'm catching whiffs of it and each time is a lovely surprise. Mona's comment about it being a twilight tubereuse is spot on, it isn't the full blown suffocating night time flower, but the light whiff of the fragrance as the flower begins to open. Truly masterful perfumery with obviously very good material. Oh Mona, how we'll miss you!