Diaghilev opens with a brief blast of concentrated citrus notes and moves into a very animalic heavy civet and oakmoss accord. It stays like this for a long time, then it's slightly brightened by Ylang Ylang with some cloves joining the skanky party. The main star of the show is the civet and oakmoss and this never goes away.
I get average projection but good longevity of several hours before it's a skin scent.
This scent is like a piece of art from over a hundred years ago in a museum which you can appreciate but would not think of taking it home and hanging it in your living room. Though those who love Leather Oud, Vintage Korous, Mouchoir de Monsieur and other heavy civet and oakmoss fragrance will find much to love here.
A flawlessly executed classically-styled floral chypré of impeccably elegant proportions. No further explanation is necessary if you're familiar with this genre. With Diaghilev, Roja Dove didn't exactly re-invent the wheel. He'd carefully repackaged the old wheel, sold them to a generation of fragrance wearers who lost their holy grails through discontinuation or reformulations, and laughed his way to the bank. Genius.
Incredibly bright and green. Opens with an in your bright, fruity character that permeates my tongue and throat every time I wear it. While not at all the same fragrance, the opening and middle of this slightly reminds of Creed's SMW. A hint of the stank is present to give this beautiful fragrance great character. The floral middle of this fragrance is undeniably intoxicating and my favorite part. As the fragrance dries down it becomes more skanky while retaining its floral character. Longevity is easily 15+ hours. If left on clothes, it will remain for several days and will become more and more skanky. Projection is 3-4 feet. Stunning.
A Stunning Masterpiece...
*This is a review of the Parfum version of Diaghilev.
Diaghilev opens with an amazing orange-laced luscious rose floral accord with a very slight dirty cumin-like undertone. As the fragrance enters the early heart phase the very full rose remains, now joined by relatively indolic jasmine and slightly powdery iris supporting florals with a minuscule measure of early patchouli driven sweetness before hints of leather and sharp vetiver quash it. The vetiver grows in intensity throughout the dry-down until by the end of the heart phase it is a solid co-star to the rose. During the late dry-down the rose finally dissipates, leaving the sharp vetiver and supporting leather to take control, with a surprising quantity of slightly powdery oakmoss underpinning the base accord. Projection is outstanding, as is longevity at nearly 15 hours on skin.
Let's get this out of the way straight off, Diaghilev is an amazing composition that conjures up visions of deep animalic's like Onda Extrait by Vero Profumo early, then leather-laced vetiver from the base of Puredistance M (another great Roja Dove composition), while infusing the composition with a similar captivating rose to the one used in Lalfeorosa by O'driu. Successfully channeling aspects of those three greats, Diaghilev is as close to a "sure thing" for lovers of those masterpieces as you will find. The bottom line is the approximately $1000 per 100ml Diaghilev in its parfum concentration is a masterpiece through and through, earning a corresponding 4.5+ stars out of 5 and an extremely strong recommendation. The near $10 per ml cost is quite dear, but compositions of this quality are extremely rare, meriting one to at least try to get their nose on a sample to witness near-perfection in a true modern day chypre composition that keeps close ties to the classics.
Pros: Channels some of the best aspects of the greats like Onda Extrait, Puredistance M and Lalfeorosa to amazing effect.
Cons: The retail price is extremely high, preventing most from being able to afford a bottle.
29th September, 2013 (last edited: 13th December, 2013)
holy moly grail!
i never EVER thought i would even contemplate spending a week's pay on a bottle of perfume. i made the fateful step of trying this juice out the other day and over the course of the day this smell just got better and better and better. i was extremely sceptical of roja dove - tried several and thought "what's this guy pulling here", but with Diaghilev, i take it all back. this is just spectacular on every level. a chypre of such depth, elegance, balance, simply a perfect fragrance. i am not going to start with notes, as this is prodigiously complex; i will say that the rose middle is the finest i've ever smelled. the sillage is quite discrete but very solid, and longevity is where it should be for an 850 euro (!!!) parfum. the long drydown has a beguiling affinity with amouage epic man (another favouite). some say this is similar to vintage mitsouko, i really can't say. it does embody everything i love about chypres in the end, i was seduced.
Pros: pinnacle of perfumery art
Cons: really, REALLY expensive"