Iris on sandpaper
Rum and iris feature prominently in Xerjoff Shingl to great effect. The same combo is used in Opus V albeit less impressively with Amouage eschewing orris' carroty/doughy attribute in favor of its icier more floral facets, presumably to ease in the other floral players. A rather clever idea especially when juxtaposed with oud's warmer depths. Unfortunately what ruins it for me is the slightly heavy hand in the use of 'dry woods accord', no doubt fueled by norlimbanol. It's abrasive texture cuts across the fragrance with the subtlety of a nail screeching across a chalkboard.
Pros: Good concept
Cons: No real oud, just lots of dry woods"
Though I am giving this a thumbs up, the mid and basenotes smell almost exactly like Montale Aoud Musk. I like Aoud Musk which is why I'm giving this a thumbs up. However, I prefer to pay Montale prices vs Amouage prices. Opening is better than Aoud Musk but only lasts about 10 minutes.
Prologue: UK version.
Yes, as Robert Webb quips in the new adverts, in some ways the combinations of dense earthy, civet notes in “Opus V” might be like waking up one morning and discovering one of those pesky meerkats in your bed!
However, joking aside, as the wonderful reviews below describe, this is another bold, fascinating creation from Amouage that deserves special mention as it refrains stolidly from following any comfortable generic line, rather, for my silly old nose, “Opus V” belongs in the company of such animalic, almost bizarre, strong 'outside' creations such as Montale’s “Aoud Cuir d’Arabie”; Lutens’ vintage “Muscs Koublai Khan” and vintage “Rose Poivree” by The Different Company.
I would have been intrigued to discover this theme with dark, citrusy top/middle notes up-front along the lines of its very distant cousins, “Derby” or vintage “Bel Ami”, but as it is “Opus V” is formidable and I love it!
Maybe my olfactory musings above will arrive one day as, say, Opus XI?
The rum note along with oud turns it into a very interesting fragrance. Very different smell if you're used to rose+oud combo. Definetely a must try. Projection, lasting power and sillage are huge. Thumbs up!
After encountering one too many lacklustre orris creations, I was struck by the beauty of Opus V’s opening chord: subtle but insistent like a lover who knows how to go the distance. The union of the soft, pale, delicately sweet orris with the sheerest touch of booze and an almost creamy oud note is divine. Please someone, find a way of prolonging this, bottle it and bring it on the market.
For Opus V soon goes down another path, which is ultimately less rewarding. The oud becomes brasher and gains in prominence and is preserved in the ‘dry wood accord’ mentioned in the official list. This latter is stuff you will probably have encountered before; it seems to dry out the nasal membranes and has an addictive quality like glue fumes. There is a hefty dose in Opus V which results in a wearing experience a bit like a drugs high, but it does seem a bit of a cheat after the artistry of the top.