The perfect bright & balanced fragrance...
L'Eau Neuve by Lubin is a fragrance that I always come to love more and more. It is fresh, vibrant, happy and also a little clever.
It opens up with a bright citrus combination of lemon, orange and bergamot, followed by a hint of lavender. It's very zesty and fresh, like the opening of a classic eau de cologne (for example a Guerlain Eau de Cologne). But what really sets this one apart is the very interesting use of herbs in the mid. Thyme, sage, marjoram & coriander... this combined with the bright, zesty top notes is what makes it so intriguing. I love the combination and it does keep you interested in the fragrance and makes it last longer. Finally the base has a light patchouli, cedar wood, sandalwood & oak moss.
So this fragrance was inspired by the 1960's feeling of optimism and hope. It does strike me as a very optimistic and bright fragrance. There is a camomile note which reminds me of camomile herbal tea, with a hint of very fresh lemon. It's very relaxing and the entire fragrance gives you such a good feeling. To me this fragrance epitomises the bright colours of yellow, blue, green and orange. There is nothing heavy or "dark" here. It's like walking in the park in spring... or camping in the outdoors, amongst nature. This is a fantastic fragrance for spring. If you like fragrances like Dior Eau Sauvage or the classic feel of a sparkling traditional herbs & citrus Eau de Cologne, then I think you will really love this. Modern, fresh and unisex. This is an underrated bright, fresh classic!
The reissued L’Eau Neuve opens with very brisk citrus top notes suggestive of both bergamot and grapefruit, dry herbs, and just a dab of gentle lavender. These are soon joined by what smells to me distinctly like civet (unlisted), sweet floral notes, and woods in a moderately animalic, citrus-and-woods heart accord that’s somewhere between Eau d’Hermès and Déclaration on one side and Eau Sauvage and Cristalle on the other. L’Eau Neuve is drier than all of these, save perhaps Déclaration, and comparatively quiet as well, which leaves it feeling both sophisticated and civilized, despite its animalic content.
As it dries down L’Eau Neuve’s citrus notes inevitably fade, and the composition grows more and more woody. The foundation consists of a luxuriously creamy sandalwood, moss, and lingering animalic note (civet). The final impression is of rich understatement and quiet elegance. It is, if you will, a softened, and ever so slightly “naughtier” take on the classic citrus chypre represented by Eau Sauvage and Cristalle – the former of which was a near-contemporary of the original L’Eau Neuve. I’d hold the current L’Eau Neuve as a fine example of gender neutrality in fragrance, equally easy to wear for men and women. With its discreet sillage and projection and its quiet poise, I can’t imagine a setting or situation where it would be objectionable. It would make a fine everyday scent, especially in warm weather, where its refreshing citrus notes would be most welcome.
A mossy citrus aromatic of high quality and versatility. Smells mossier in cooler weather, more herbal in the heat. Very unisex.
A blast of orange citrus is what I'm picking up on the intial application with lemon and its juicy fresh. I'm now beginning to notice the lavender which is paired with the orange and lemon fruity blast. After a while I'm getting a floral touch with some woods peeking through the citrus and it smells like jasmine.
This is really nice and complex fragrance and now the citrus has gone and its starting to smell to my nose like chaomile and woods mixed together with that floral touch to sweeten the notes. The fragrance is light and breezy though it has quietened down and reigned itself in after the amazing highy quality citrus blast.
After time has passed I am getting patchouli with woods and a touch of oakmoss in the basenotes. It does smell really nice though I cannot help feeling that it does not deliver the goods from that great opening citrus blast. You kind of expected something more after that fanfare opening and it does become a skin scent and starts to whisper more on the skin.
To sum up a very fruity citrus blast that quietens down to what smells like chamomile and woods with a floral touch. It smells good but starts to become a skin scent. I get five to six hours or so out of it though the projection in the later stages is poor. A very likable fragrance.
24th February, 2012 (last edited: 04th March, 2012)