There is not so much to add to the previous detailed Colin Maillard's review, I agree for sure, great class (a classic foundation for a modern approach), balance and subtleness for this Corticchiato's orangy neo-classic which retains its fair dose of herbal/hesperidic slightly smokey bitterness even along the softly vanillic/mossy dry down. Mandarine is the standout note in its association with neroli, herbal patterns, pepper and cumin, the balsams dosage is masterly appointed, several sharp floral patterns provide their subtle spark while the dry down is basically (but moderately) mossy with a notable patchouli, some herbs/bitter peels sourness, a whiff of fruity/mineral and minimal hints of "leathery-vanillic softness". The latter is never unbalanced or pretentious and for this reason this skilfully crafted fragrance stands out there where several others fail (as for instance Bvlgari Aqva Amara). Finally the Azemous L.O's touch of leather emerges (I waited it for a while thinking of not being able to detect it) and the note appears marvellously bitter-tobacco veined with a touch of smoke. I see the connection with Eau d'Hermes which performs anyway a deeper leathery and floral presence (with a touch of vintage potpourri). The dry down manages to be at once light and visceral overall in the fences of measure. Perfect for the sultry climates, versatile and elegant.
... and another win from Parfum d'Empire. The opening is perfect: orange, neroli, orange blossoms, a light and mossy oakmoss/patchouli base which will eventually emerge better once the scent "dries" from the fresh opening notes. White musks with a hint of wet hay - that creamy, earthy/powdery light roundness which is perhaps the most recognisable among Corticchiato's favourite signature accords. Dense, elegant resinous-vanillin notes, with a perfect flavor of dusty tobacco and soft sandalwood, a touch of fruit which feels like apricot or peach, bright floral notes, and even a hint of aniseed – this somehow makes this close to Eau de Gloire. A soft suede note on the base – another trait d'union with many other Parfum d'Empire's fragrances. The scent is filled so well and so perfectly you wish it lasts forever. Sweet, elegant, graceful and pleasant – that kind of invigorating, soothing perfumery pleasure which today seems a bit "demodé" sometimes – I would just say "classic" craft at its best. Great drydown with a vibrant earthy-herbaceous feel, always with a warm base accord. Flawless class.
28th April, 2014 (last edited: 09th November, 2014)
juicy but dry as a bone, sweet but green as hell, tart but warm. a mass of contradictions that really work. an orange chypre that is original and bold. excellent execution and a rare year-rounder.
Azemour les Orangers
Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d' Empire is a beautfully composed, austere but radiant orange chypre fragrance. The notes include a wide variety for a fragrance that calls itself "orange" and the variety of ingredients provides mystery and reward for this dry, slightly sueded, orange and green fragrance.
The opening is true to its name and begins with orange, grapefruit and citron for a very clean bright orange aroma. There is an ever-present green back note from galbanum which gives a natural lift for the citrus and florals of orange blossom, neroli, rose and geranium. These notes alone would make a wonderful and fulfilling orange fragrance with natural green that would be enough to rival any of the summery orange scents on the market. But, not so fast!
The orange floral innocence has another chapter to play out which arrives abruptly with a dry, natural, chalky base chord. As the orange top notes drift innocently along, the terrain changes to impose an outcropping of mineral notes and dry grasses that is fronted by black pepper, pink pepper and then moves on to hay, moss, henna and iodine for a dry sueded but chyprish base. The effect of this very dry base is quite an interruption to the orange floral pleasantness of the opening. The innocence is lost. There is a refreshing juxtaposition of opposites in this combination of warm citrus, hay, henna and iodine base notes that results in interesting personality, some complication, that is a strengthening feature.
I like the mystery and aloofness of this fragrance. This is a nice combination of dryness to support all the aspects of orange in here. It seems to work well all year round.
Pros: warm, orange, dry base
Cons: The dry and prickly base will limit its appeal for some
Azemour is my favorite scent from Parfum D'Empire, It manages to cover every aspect of the orange. You can smell the glorious juicy fruit with its sweet richness, you get the leaves and the orange blossom... So beautiful and poetic almost like classical music.
And If this wasn't enough you get loads of moss and some suede in the dry down, it couldn't be better, I like to think this is a modern take on the idea behind Sous le Vent.
If you are looking for a good chypre for the summer, look no further.
15th January, 2013 (last edited: 12th February, 2013)