Perfume Directory

Azemour les Orangers (2011)
by Parfum d'Empire


Azemour les Orangers information

Year of Launch2011
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 60 votes)

People and companies

HouseParfum d'Empire
PerfumerMarc-Antoine Corticchiato

About Azemour les Orangers

Azemour is a tribute to the perfumers parents’ orange groves on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. It is named after the ancient city of Azemmour.

Azemour les Orangers fragrance notes

Reviews of Azemour les Orangers

I rarely try citrus fragrances because so many are disappointing. They often suffer from the pumpkin carriage tendency, fleeing just as you’re beginning to enjoy yourself. And those that linger are usually too synthetic smelling by half. After one too many bottled screeches, it’s easy to give up. But Luca Turin’s five star review of Azemour Les Orangers piqued my interest enough to order a sample.
This is a perfume with a big personality and a world apart from other citruses out there. It’s based on a juxtaposition of a rich and luxurious blend of citrus notes (leaning towards oranges and mandarins rather than the sharper siblings) and a strong dose of humid soil, full of mould, almost choking. A world championship clash between oriental opulence and chypric ruggedness. My skin, alas, plays up the earthiness, so that what sang sweetly like a siren on a strip of paper pitch shifts considerably. I love that Azemour is so natural, full to the brim and rich, but I’m laid low by the humus – it’s all a bit ‘freshly dug grave in the orange orchard’.
It’s only a good two or three hours into the wear that Azemour settles on my skin, the mulchy soil dying back to a more acceptable level and turning woodier, resinous tones emerging and a bit of candied peel finding its way into the mix. The classic ideals of harmony and restraint now govern and a place has been earned in the gallery of greats. That this place may be right next to Nicolai’s New York has been observed by Turin, who cites Azemour as being a more natural iteration of that idea. Be that as it may, New York is my friend from start to finish, Azemour takes its time to warm to me.
11th October, 2018
Olive Trees with the Alpilles in the Background by Vincent Van Gogh 1889
16th May, 2018
I hate to be the first non-positive reviewer for this scent, but I have to be honest. It doesn't interest or excite me.

I get the sweet orange/cumin burst upon first application. Twenty minutes later this has faded, still there but only slightly. The moss enters to give quiet support. Of the 19 ingredients (the official blurb adds cypress to the list above), I only detect these three.

The other Basenoter noses reviewing on this page are fortunate that they can experience the entire spectrum of notes, but for me it's pretty much a simple linear dark fruit/spice combo. It's nothing like Sous Le Vent, my favorite spice fragrance, (alluded to in another review here), to my nose.

Nice, but not special or outstanding in any way.
16th January, 2016
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Azemour opens with juicy orange citrus over traces of underlying cumin spice. As the composition moves to its early heart the initial juicy orange morphs to sharp relatively dry, slightly bitter, fresh green grapefruit-infused neroli as the underlying cumin spice grows slightly in its intensity. As the composition makes its way through its middle the cumin dissipates as the composition turns more green through the infusion of a mossy accord rising from the base that couples with orange flower and the green neroli, resulting in a slightly dirty bitter-green orange accord. During the late dry-down the cumin spice completely vacates the composition leaving remnants of the green moss to add additional support to the starring slightly sharp woods and supporting coumarin derived hay base notes. Projection is minimal with the composition just a little more than a skin scent and longevity average at about 7-9 hours on skin.

Azemour les Orangers is a very different composition than I expected. Yes, the orange fruit is definitely there early-on in particular, but the composition is much more about the fresh green neroli aspect of the orange tree, incorporating even aspects of the tree itself late. The presentation is quite a welcome departure from the usual "orange". Something *not* as welcome is the subtle to moderate use of dirty cumin spice through the early heart of the composition. The cumin is never intrusive, thankfully, but it does seem unnecessary and the composition shines brightest when it is unnoticeable. The late dry-down is quite different than the rest of the composition, with the moss and coumarin in the base completing the chypre structure but its focus turns quite woody with almost a sharp vetiver-like bent, and an extremely slight saltiness noticeable only if one pays close attention. Save for the unnecessary cumin the whole thing is quite well put together and exudes some of the spirit of the great Monsieur de Givenchy at times (without the orange, of course). The bottom line is the $145 per 100ml bottle Azemour could have been truly excellent had it not marred its presentation slightly with its relatively minor use of dirty cumin, but even "as is" the end result still merits a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 and a solid recommendation to all.
24th August, 2014
There is not so much to add to the previous detailed Colin Maillard's review, I agree for sure, great class (a classic foundation for a modern approach), balance and subtleness for this Corticchiato's orangy neo-classic which retains its fair dose of herbal/hesperidic slightly smokey bitterness even along the softly vanillic/mossy dry down. Mandarine is the standout note in its association with neroli, herbal patterns, pepper and cumin, the balsams dosage is masterly appointed, several sharp floral patterns provide their subtle spark while the dry down is basically (but moderately) mossy with a notable patchouli, some herbs/bitter peels sourness, a whiff of fruity/mineral and minimal hints of "leathery-vanillic softness". The latter is never unbalanced or pretentious and for this reason this skilfully crafted fragrance stands out there where several others fail (as for instance Bvlgari Aqva Amara). Finally the Azemous L.O's touch of leather emerges (I waited it for a while thinking of not being able to detect it) and the note appears marvellously bitter-tobacco veined with a touch of smoke. I see the connection with Eau d'Hermes which performs anyway a deeper leathery and floral presence (with a touch of vintage potpourri). The dry down manages to be at same time light and visceral overall in the fences of measure. Perfect for the sultry climates, versatile and elegant.
11th June, 2014 (last edited: 05th September, 2015)
... and another win from Parfum d'Empire. The opening is perfect: orange, neroli, orange blossoms, a light and mossy oakmoss/patchouli base which will eventually emerge better once the scent "dries" from the fresh opening notes. White musks with a hint of wet hay - that creamy, earthy/powdery light roundness which is perhaps the most recognisable among Corticchiato's favourite signature accords. Dense, elegant resinous-vanillin notes, with a perfect flavor of dusty tobacco and soft sandalwood, a touch of fruit which feels like apricot or peach, bright floral notes, and even a hint of aniseed – this somehow makes this close to Eau de Gloire. A soft suede note on the base – another trait d'union with many other Parfum d'Empire's fragrances. The scent is filled so well and so perfectly you wish it lasts forever. Sweet, elegant, graceful and pleasant – that kind of invigorating, soothing perfumery pleasure which today seems a bit "demodé" sometimes – I would just say "classic" craft at its best. Great drydown with a vibrant earthy-herbaceous feel, always with a warm base accord. Flawless class.

28th April, 2014 (last edited: 09th November, 2014)

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