Azemour opens with juicy orange citrus over traces of underlying cumin spice. As the composition moves to its early heart the initial juicy orange morphs to sharp relatively dry, slightly bitter, fresh green grapefruit-infused neroli as the underlying cumin spice grows slightly in its intensity. As the composition makes its way through its middle the cumin dissipates as the composition turns more green through the infusion of a mossy accord rising from the base that couples with orange flower and the green neroli, resulting in a slightly dirty bitter-green orange accord. During the late dry-down the cumin spice completely vacates the composition leaving remnants of the green moss to add additional support to the starring slightly sharp woods and supporting coumarin derived hay base notes. Projection is minimal with the composition just a little more than a skin scent and longevity average at about 7-9 hours on skin.
Azemour les Orangers is a very different composition than I expected. Yes, the orange fruit is definitely there early-on in particular, but the composition is much more about the fresh green neroli aspect of the orange tree, incorporating even aspects of the tree itself late. The presentation is quite a welcome departure from the usual "orange". Something *not* as welcome is the subtle to moderate use of dirty cumin spice through the early heart of the composition. The cumin is never intrusive, thankfully, but it does seem unnecessary and the composition shines brightest when it is unnoticeable. The late dry-down is quite different than the rest of the composition, with the moss and coumarin in the base completing the chypre structure but its focus turns quite woody with almost a sharp vetiver-like bent, and an extremely slight saltiness noticeable only if one pays close attention. Save for the unnecessary cumin the whole thing is quite well put together and exudes some of the spirit of the great Monsieur de Givenchy at times (without the orange, of course). The bottom line is the $145 per 100ml bottle Azemour could have been truly excellent had it not marred its presentation slightly with its relatively minor use of dirty cumin, but even "as is" the end result still merits a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 and a solid recommendation to all.
There is not so much to add to the previous detailed Colin Maillard's review, I agree for sure, great class (a classic foundation for a modern approach), balance and subtleness for this Corticchiato's orangy neo-classic which retains its fair dose of herbal/hesperidic slightly smokey bitterness even along the softly vanillic/mossy dry down. Mandarine is the standout note in its association with neroli, herbal patterns, pepper and cumin, the balsams dosage is masterly appointed, several sharp floral patterns provide their subtle spark while the dry down is basically (but moderately) mossy with a notable patchouli, some herbs/bitter peels sourness, a whiff of fruity/mineral and minimal hints of "leathery-vanillic softness". The latter is never unbalanced or pretentious and for this reason this skilfully crafted fragrance stands out there where several others fail (as for instance Bvlgari Aqva Amara). Finally the Azemous L.O's touch of leather emerges (I waited it for a while thinking of not being able to detect it) and the note appears marvellously bitter-tobacco veined with a touch of smoke. I see the connection with Eau d'Hermes which performs anyway a deeper leathery and floral presence (with a touch of vintage potpourri). The dry down manages to be at same time light and visceral overall in the fences of measure. Perfect for the sultry climates, versatile and elegant.
11th June, 2014 (last edited: 05th September, 2015)
... and another win from Parfum d'Empire. The opening is perfect: orange, neroli, orange blossoms, a light and mossy oakmoss/patchouli base which will eventually emerge better once the scent "dries" from the fresh opening notes. White musks with a hint of wet hay - that creamy, earthy/powdery light roundness which is perhaps the most recognisable among Corticchiato's favourite signature accords. Dense, elegant resinous-vanillin notes, with a perfect flavor of dusty tobacco and soft sandalwood, a touch of fruit which feels like apricot or peach, bright floral notes, and even a hint of aniseed – this somehow makes this close to Eau de Gloire. A soft suede note on the base – another trait d'union with many other Parfum d'Empire's fragrances. The scent is filled so well and so perfectly you wish it lasts forever. Sweet, elegant, graceful and pleasant – that kind of invigorating, soothing perfumery pleasure which today seems a bit "demodé" sometimes – I would just say "classic" craft at its best. Great drydown with a vibrant earthy-herbaceous feel, always with a warm base accord. Flawless class.
28th April, 2014 (last edited: 09th November, 2014)
juicy but dry as a bone, sweet but green as hell, tart but warm. a mass of contradictions that really work. an orange chypre that is original and bold. excellent execution and a rare year-rounder.
Azemour les Orangers
Azemour les Orangers by Parfum d' Empire is a beautfully composed, austere but radiant orange chypre fragrance. The notes include a wide variety for a fragrance that calls itself "orange" and the variety of ingredients provides mystery and reward for this dry, slightly sueded, orange and green fragrance.
The opening is true to its name and begins with orange, grapefruit and citron for a very clean bright orange aroma. There is an ever-present green back note from galbanum which gives a natural lift for the citrus and florals of orange blossom, neroli, rose and geranium. These notes alone would make a wonderful and fulfilling orange fragrance with natural green that would be enough to rival any of the summery orange scents on the market. But, not so fast!
The orange floral innocence has another chapter to play out which arrives abruptly with a dry, natural, chalky base chord. As the orange top notes drift innocently along, the terrain changes to impose an outcropping of mineral notes and dry grasses that is fronted by black pepper, pink pepper and then moves on to hay, moss, henna and iodine for a dry sueded but chyprish base. The effect of this very dry base is quite an interruption to the orange floral pleasantness of the opening. The innocence is lost. There is a refreshing juxtaposition of opposites in this combination of warm citrus, hay, henna and iodine base notes that results in interesting personality, some complication, that is a strengthening feature.
I like the mystery and aloofness of this fragrance. This is a nice combination of dryness to support all the aspects of orange in here. It seems to work well all year round.
Pros: warm, orange, dry base
Cons: The dry and prickly base will limit its appeal for some