Perfume Directory

Azemour les Orangers (2011)
by Parfum d'Empire

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Azemour les Orangers information

Year of Launch2011
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 65 votes)

People and companies

HouseParfum d'Empire
PerfumerMarc-Antoine Corticchiato

About Azemour les Orangers

Azemour is a tribute to the perfumers parents’ orange groves on the Atlantic coast of Morocco. It is named after the ancient city of Azemmour.

Azemour les Orangers fragrance notes

Reviews of Azemour les Orangers

It is hard for any fragrance to live up to the hype around Azemour les Orangers. Luca Turin's 5 star review made it sound like the distilled essence of Indiana Jones and Robert Redford in Out of Africa.

Without question, this is an ambitious composition. It has an air of 1940s romance and adventure, filtered through the modern cinematography of Spielberg. I can appreciate it as an homage to the lost beauty of the great Chypres of the past.
I can chuckle at its thumb-in-the-eye disregard for the strictures of IFRA's atranol police. Alas, I cannot wear it.

The beauty of the classic chypres was in their confident but still delicate use of oakmoss as a supporting, atmospheric note. The oakmoss was ever present, but it did not chew the scenery. In Mitsouko, for instance, the creamy peach is the star, singing an aria while the moss provides orchestral depth.

In Azemour, the roles are reversed. An eye-watering moss dominates everything, leaving one to wonder where the juicy bits are hiding. It is Mitsouko in drag.

Overall rating: * * *
08th January, 2019
It starts off with citrus, more orange than lemon, then together with galbanum and blackcurrent to cool it of and give it some edge. It's very nice, but fades quickly on my arm, and turns into a floral experience and a woody hay, similar to Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Cuba, but without the honey, and more subtle. The end result is a very mild neroli, berry, hay and wood. The subtlety is what makes it wearable. It all mixes together well and nothing is jarring.
08th January, 2019
I rarely try citrus fragrances because so many are disappointing. They often suffer from the pumpkin carriage tendency, fleeing just as you’re beginning to enjoy yourself. And those that linger are usually too synthetic smelling by half. After one too many bottled screeches, it’s easy to give up. But Luca Turin’s five star review of Azemour Les Orangers piqued my interest enough to order a sample.
This is a perfume with a big personality and a world apart from other citruses out there. It’s based on a juxtaposition of a rich and luxurious blend of citrus notes (leaning towards oranges and mandarins rather than the sharper siblings) and a strong dose of humid soil, full of mould, almost choking. A world championship clash between oriental opulence and chypric ruggedness. My skin, alas, plays up the earthiness, so that what sang sweetly like a siren on a strip of paper pitch shifts considerably. I love that Azemour is so natural, full to the brim and rich, but I’m laid low by the humus – it’s all a bit ‘freshly dug grave in the orange orchard’.
It’s only a good two or three hours into the wear that Azemour settles on my skin, the mulchy soil dying back to a more acceptable level and turning woodier, resinous tones emerging and a bit of candied peel finding its way into the mix. The classic ideals of harmony and restraint now govern and a place has been earned in the gallery of greats. That this place may be right next to Nicolai’s New York has been observed by Turin, who cites Azemour as being a more natural iteration of that idea. Be that as it may, New York is my friend from start to finish, Azemour takes its time to warm to me.
11th October, 2018
Olive Trees with the Alpilles in the Background by Vincent Van Gogh 1889
16th May, 2018
I hate to be the first non-positive reviewer for this scent, but I have to be honest. It doesn't interest or excite me.

I get the sweet orange/cumin burst upon first application. Twenty minutes later this has faded, still there but only slightly. The moss enters to give quiet support. Of the 19 ingredients (the official blurb adds cypress to the list above), I only detect these three.

The other Basenoter noses reviewing on this page are fortunate that they can experience the entire spectrum of notes, but for me it's pretty much a simple linear dark fruit/spice combo. It's nothing like Sous Le Vent, my favorite spice fragrance, (alluded to in another review here), to my nose.

Nice, but not special or outstanding in any way.
16th January, 2016
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Azemour opens with juicy orange citrus over traces of underlying cumin spice. As the composition moves to its early heart the initial juicy orange morphs to sharp relatively dry, slightly bitter, fresh green grapefruit-infused neroli as the underlying cumin spice grows slightly in its intensity. As the composition makes its way through its middle the cumin dissipates as the composition turns more green through the infusion of a mossy accord rising from the base that couples with orange flower and the green neroli, resulting in a slightly dirty bitter-green orange accord. During the late dry-down the cumin spice completely vacates the composition leaving remnants of the green moss to add additional support to the starring slightly sharp woods and supporting coumarin derived hay base notes. Projection is minimal with the composition just a little more than a skin scent and longevity average at about 7-9 hours on skin.

Azemour les Orangers is a very different composition than I expected. Yes, the orange fruit is definitely there early-on in particular, but the composition is much more about the fresh green neroli aspect of the orange tree, incorporating even aspects of the tree itself late. The presentation is quite a welcome departure from the usual "orange". Something *not* as welcome is the subtle to moderate use of dirty cumin spice through the early heart of the composition. The cumin is never intrusive, thankfully, but it does seem unnecessary and the composition shines brightest when it is unnoticeable. The late dry-down is quite different than the rest of the composition, with the moss and coumarin in the base completing the chypre structure but its focus turns quite woody with almost a sharp vetiver-like bent, and an extremely slight saltiness noticeable only if one pays close attention. Save for the unnecessary cumin the whole thing is quite well put together and exudes some of the spirit of the great Monsieur de Givenchy at times (without the orange, of course). The bottom line is the $145 per 100ml bottle Azemour could have been truly excellent had it not marred its presentation slightly with its relatively minor use of dirty cumin, but even "as is" the end result still merits a "very good" to "excellent" 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5 and a solid recommendation to all.
24th August, 2014

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