Perfume Directory

Prima T (1977)
by Bruno Acampora


Prima T information

Year of Launch1977
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
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HouseBruno Acampora

About Prima T

Prima T is a feminine perfume by Bruno Acampora. The scent was launched in 1977

Reviews of Prima T

This is perfume!

Prima T is a mark of how my tastes have developed. It's a familiar smell to me from my childhood, from my grandaunts and maybe even my grandmother (who died when I was 4). They, or their clothes, smelled something like this and I thought it was old-fashioned or 'perfumy'. So I wandered into my teens and twenties in a haze of green and citrus and sometimes floral, but always on the fresh side.

Then, a few years ago I got samples of this and Iranzol (in oil form) with an order. I tried Iranzol and was put off by the 'mushroom' opening but after an hour I was huffing my wrist as if my life depended on it. A while later I tried this one, and it's been a love of mine since. I was lucky enough to later get 10ml bottles of this and Iranzol. These are the oils - they're now available as extraits and edps but I've never tried them in that form. The only problem with the oils is one of dosage - as the scent develops it gets quite massive for a while and then fades to a skin scent.

It's a chypre, I guess, but it has a certain simplicity or almost a roughness - what I mean is that both this and Iranzol have an architectural feeling, grander but simpler than more refined French scents. Maybe it's because they're Italian - I get something similar with Paloma Picasso (Spanish). Could be that, as with food, these have that quality of great ingredients done perfectly without any fripperies. Anyway, it opens with a tiny bit of bitter dankness followed by a gorgeous sharp but balmy and somehow salty floral hit - this is one of the few perfumes where I can distinguish rose. I don't know what it's called but that sharpish but oily floral and saline feeling is what I associate with perfumes of a couple of generations back. I have no contemporary experience with vintage, but this is the smell of my grandmother's generation when they were in their prime, while my mother's generation were less austere, if these rich chypres can be called austere. It could be because Prima T and other chypres are more complex and less describable. But great!

I can't see myself wearing this every day, as it has such a spellbinding effect on me when I do wear it that I'd prefer to keep the magic alive rather than get too comfortable with it! For me, it knocks the socks off other chypres I have known (even Aromatics Elixir!) and is my perfect special occasion wear (it may even edge out Tiaré).
06th July, 2017
smells of old things without the beauty of something retro or vintage.
21st November, 2015
A classic, uncompromising, straightforward genuine floral/chypre scent, quite on the "organic, rural & botanical" side, with a stunning, narcotic initial narcissus note and a fresh balsamic breeze as if there was a slight geranium note too. A discreet, more powdery side (violet) adds a nice soapy and gentle note, which "refines" the haunting rawness of narcissus. Something darker and more animalic hiding below, subtle and shady. Realistic and powerful, extremely elegant in Acampora's Mediterranean way – no aldehydated/resinous French elegance, no Oriental opulence, more the graceful, crisp elegance of a flowers bouquet lying on a garden table, in a sleepy Autumn afternoon. Evocative and timeless, slightly melancholic and gloomy, without any specific "reference", more an eternally romantic, neoclassic personality, lively and vibrant as a Leighton painting. Mellow and cozy drydown. Understated elegance at its best – which is the kind I appreciate the most, and perhaps the most difficult to achieve.

25th May, 2014
Acampora Prima T is another giant, an absolutely gorgeous and royal musky/floral chypre in which a massive floral bouquet is rooted over a perfect (and obscure) musk/galbanum slightly soapy-animalic base. Yes, a coronal by gems dotted, this is what this complex aroma elicits. I detect orange blossoms at the beginning perfectly connected to dark moss and hesperides. The bouquet is rich, decadent and retro, conjuring parisian attics populated by old sinister madame, misogynist fellows and elusive ghosts. The violet is heady in my opinion, a sinister violet full of mystery and conjuring brown/dark ambiences impregnated by the hypnotic (obsessive) smell of indolic floral compositions and stale vegetal water. The rose is there, velvety and red, luxurious and decadent while the lily of the valley enhances the floral melancholic depth. The floral miasm is swirling, velvety, kaleidoscopic, spinning. There is a classic bergamot/patchouli accord in my humble opinion while hints of sandalwood provide stableness for the musky foundations. The aroma re-proposes in a modern key a classic massive chypre accord a la First or Diva but all is "polished", boise, velvety animalic in a silky/vegetal way. There is a final marvellous rosey/musky laundriness so perfect and refined. The Prima T's type of woman is spectral, forbidding, mysterious, nobody knows about the obscure past of her. Chapeau.
01st May, 2014

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