Quite impressed by testing this excellent amber on my skin, guys. Huitieme Art Ambre Ceruleen is an amazing fragrance for real. I have a controversial "relationship" with the amber-centered concoctions since I tend to be basically annoyed by those overly powdery and monothematic ambers while I'm delighted by the dark-chic floral ambers or the multifaceted darkly resinous ones. In this case the main element is not just talky-organic and "white" dusty but all at once humid-medicinal (for a part of the development at least), classic-chypre in style, earthy-camphoraceous (patchouli, orris root??), vaguely honeyed-resinous (though basically sharp), glorious, licentious and decadent as a gala night "at Palace" during the Venice's Carnival. I detect a liquid pulsating core in the middle of the central amber accord, this extremely baroque feel is probably elicited by an interaction of hesperides (gorgeous bergamot), woodsy, resinous-animalic (castoreum, opoponax??) and green-aromatic notes providing a structure rich by a moltitude of facets. The well calibrated talkiness is vorticous, profound, aristocratic and velvety (not simply "poudrey" in a boring way). Tonka bean is a central note under my nose, with all its herbal, honeyed, almondy, spicy and vanillic complexity. The spicy vibe in particular is sweet (in a fair way) and piquant-cool (in a way it seems to detect a cinnamon-cloves-cumin's presence in middle of an aromatic "minty" air). The dry down is woodsy-mossy, moderately resinous (is like a "sticky" core outlives beyond the general sharp-chypre aura) and basically dark, preserving anyway a velvety-chic silkiness that seems a dark cloak for a fatal night down the "coolest" (the most exclusive) of the metropolitain venues.
13th May, 2015 (last edited: 05th September, 2015)
Ambre Céruléen opens with a gloomy, "chypre-esque" amber accord, with almost an "animalic" and castoreum-like note (it's not that, but has the same "feel"), and a general earthy and carnal vibe, blended with a balsamic-medicinal accord of cloves and spices. Bolder and denser than other works by Guillaume, still with his signature "simplicity" of style and composition, quite powerful too. Powdery notes of white musks with a hint of iris roots complete the composition. A dense, dirty, poisonously sweet and bold accord of tonka, sandalwood and opoponax with a dry, boozy, "animalic" tone gives the scent a shady, sweetish, woody, vanilla-resins heart, which after a while turns into a fairly cloying camphor-sweet note (a sort of gingerbread-like note). The amber accord is honestly not that well executed in my opinion, or better said, it sounds a bit flat and "put aside", not much dense nor deep, it's dusty and velvety but in a sort of uninspired way. Plus it kind of smells "separated" from the opoponax-tonka-sandalwood accord which to me is kind of prominent (and since I don't like these notes, especially the first two which soon create a sort of warm sweet bread feel I can not stand, I kind of wished it was less powerful). Anyway, as minutes pass it all gets instead more interesting, the blend kind of mixes together in a more thick and harmonic accord getting drier and less sweet-ish (it stays sweet, just losing the –ish), the powdery-medicinal side emerges with more strength, always keeping it ambery (finally more clearly) and resinous but in a darker, drier and more "martial" way. Nonetheless, despite the amber emerges more clearly later one, overall more than ambery it's definitely a woody-resinous-balsamic scent with an ambery base and a bittersweet, almost edible prominent accord of resins and woods. A nice sort of classic chypre played on different notes, less animalic, musky and rooty than classic chypres, more ambery and sweet with a soapy side, still somehow dark, dirty and stale that way. Persistence is light, as almost all Guillaume's work I've tested. Not a bad scent, not my cup of tea surely, but quite interesting and maybe even pleasant, or even great, if you like those notes.