Perfume Directory

Trayee (2011)
by Neela Vermeire


Trayee information

Year of Launch2011
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 29 votes)

People and companies

HouseNeela Vermeire
PerfumerBertrand Duchaufour

About Trayee

Trayee is a feminine perfume by Neela Vermeire. The scent was launched in 2011 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour

Reviews of Trayee

Genre: Woody Oriental

Trayee is a fascinating scent: a kind of Indian dessert with a subtle overlay of pot. It’s like eating cardamom-and-saffron rice pudding while your brother-in-law enjoys his bong in the next room. The cardamom, saffron, and vanilla far outlast the cannabis note, giving way in turn to a drydown of vanillic amber, incense, creamy sandalwood, and leathery notes. I detect none of the listed oudh or oakmoss.

Trayee is a complex scent, yet subtle, a gourmand, yet not overly sweet. I enjoy it and recommend that fans of creamy vanillic fragrances give it a try.
06th October, 2014
purush Show all reviews
United States
Smells exactly like an authentic Indian dessert: Kulfi would smell! Absolutely delicious!
12th September, 2014
I was sceptical of the ‘scents of India’ spiel that accompanied the first three Neela Vermeire releases – there are so many odours that qualify (leaving aside the stenchy side of the spectrum ever-present in any Indian urban setting), would any single perfume be evocative enough? I needn’t have doubted. One sniff of Trayee and it was obvious that I was in the presence of a transporting creation.
A quick volley of ganja smoke and the scent of wayside wood fires lifted to usher in gorgeous aromas of Indian kulfis and kheers – milky and sweet, gently wafting the promise of cardamom and saffron. Perfume critic Persolaise was right in noting that Trayee unites ‘the most refined elements of Artisan’s Traversée Du Bosphore and Safran Troublant’ which, to my mind, it artfully juxtaposes with an enticing green, smoky and woody accord, the likes of which I haven’t seen since Ormonde Man.
It’s complex without being burdensome, rich yet not lacking in subtlety, and deserving of the hosannas of praise that greeted its arrival.
However, I must add that I find the deep base (about the three-four hour mark) too demure, too similar to the Artisans mentioned and a bit flat, the life seems to go out of it at this stage. One has higher expectations at this price point.
07th August, 2014
Delicate, natural ambery-vanilla base surrounding a beautiful dense accord of jasmin, fruity notes, ginger and resins, all perfectly balanced, sparkling and colourful like a pavé diamond. Fresh herbal-earthy base notes of patchouli and basil, with just a tight but rich heart of darker notes (oud). Rich and textured but not cloying, in fact it's all lively and graceful. It eventually get more dense and vibrant as minutes pass, also more resinous and spicy, reaching a splendid peak of savoury richness with a bold balsamic feel. A really evocative, aerial, vivid, romantic and "pictorial" scent, although not that distinctive - more "really good" than "great". It is complex, in a perfect Duchaufour style, but still you can easily "see" each note and accord on its own. The projection is a bit more closer to skin than you may think, and the drydown is long-lasting, mostly comprising a cozy and warm resinous-balsamic accord – which eventually gets a bit medicinal. To be really honest the drydown is a bit disappointing, as this final accord you get is a bit generic and weak – especially if comparing with the greatness of the initial stages. Strangely I feel the oud is very light here (which is a "pro" to me!).

02nd May, 2014 (last edited: 04th May, 2014)
Creamy spicy/floral oud-sandalwood composition.

Massive masterpiece which, despite the Bertrand Duchaufour's "hand" and the listed note of incense, can't be properly labeled as a straight forward incensey concoction being it substantially an "old-school/classic in style" contemporary spicy/semi oriental chypre with hints of resinous oud (notable by soon in the top together with sandalwood--- the typical creamy oud/sandalwood effect--- and with the blackcurrant) and some spicy/fruity mellifluence in the composition. The magistrally appointed note of incense is balanced and well liked with saffron, cloves and cinnamon in order to enrich the witch's potion (slightly absorbing the sweetness from the fruity blackcurrant/amber/vanilla) while the delicious minimal touch of secret mellow fruits (apricot, plums or what the hell can be??) is perfectly amalgamated with a forbidding vetiver/patchouli, a classic oakmoss, some balsams, resinous woodsy notes and blackcurrant. The floral notes swirl around passing through the oakmoss-balsams-fruits-resins waves and affording feminine sophistication and classy elegance. The ginger/aromatic herbs/saffron accord provides a diffused sort of "aromatic/spicy gassiness" around (also due to the aoud's background work) while you can detect a characteristic fruity/floral redolent (almost syrupy and anyway resinous) aroma around (a cozy aroma odouring about a simil apricots/black cherries feel, about jasmine, vanilla and woodsy berries over a boise bed of forest covered by musks, dry leaves and soft woods). The balance between spices and the amber/vanilla/myrrh accord is undenatable as well as the sweetness is moderate and the incensey neutrality can balance the excess of "savour". I have to say that the oud/incense touch is definitely more detectable in the final part of the olfactory evolution. The more the juice evolves indeed the more the sombre and mysterious incensey coziness emerges and i start to detect woody, leathery (suede) and tobacco nuances which turn this complex aroma out such a mystic and almost decadent creation to be enjoyed by all those forbidding dark madames with the cult of the oriental mystery and the spirituality. Great longevity and projecting sillage on my skin.

Pros: Mystic and sumptuous. Fruity/incensey undertones.
Cons: Any in particular."

12th October, 2013
suede and spice

This scent has a very interesting profile, and I recommend giving it a sniff if just for the interesting work it makes you do in calculating what you are smelling. I've decided after several sessions of sniffing that it is a spice/suede scent. There are two lines under the general bouquet of spice! and suede! that are highly intriguing. One is a dusty bubble gum wrapper dryness....that I recall from decades ago. I'm speaking of the gum that arrived with collector baseball wars cards..what have maybe it is a cardboard/woodsy dry sweetness. Two is the medicinal bitter oud bite. Is it oud? I would never offer this as an example of oud, but there is a "grab" of bandaid-y oud. These two subtle features are quite compelling for me. My complaint is this scent doesn't quite win me over. (Me me me. Yes this review is all about me!) I believe because all this complexity and harmony and chords of notes entwined stays at a single level of development..there is no transformation as you wear the perfume.

Pros: unique, chords of notes
Cons: linear"

11th September, 2013

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