Massive masterpiece which, despite the Bertrand Duchaufour's "hand" and the listed note of incense, can't be properly labeled as a straight forward incensey concoction being it substantially an "old-school/classic in style" contemporary spicy/semi oriental chypre with hints of resinous oud (notable by soon in the top together with sandalwood--- the typical creamy oud/sandalwood effect--- and with the blackcurrant) and some spicy/fruity mellifluence in the composition. The magistrally appointed note of incense is balanced and well liked with saffron, cloves and cinnamon in order to enrich the witch's potion (slightly absorbing the sweetness from the fruity blackcurrant/amber/vanilla) while the delicious minimal touch of secret mellow fruits (apricot, plums or what the hell can be??) is perfectly amalgamated with a forbidding vetiver/patchouli, a classic oakmoss, some balsams, resinous woodsy notes and blackcurrant. The floral notes swirl around passing through the oakmoss-balsams-fruits-resins waves and affording feminine sophistication and classy elegance. The ginger/aromatic herbs/saffron accord provides a diffused sort of "aromatic/spicy gassiness" around (also due to the aoud's background work) while you can detect a characteristic fruity/floral redolent (almost syrupy and anyway resinous) aroma around (a cozy aroma odouring about a simil apricots/black cherries feel, about jasmine, vanilla and woodsy berries over a boise bed of forest covered by musks, dry leaves and soft woods). The balance between spices and the amber/vanilla/myrrh accord is undenatable as well as the sweetness is moderate and the incensey neutrality can balance the excess of "savour". I have to say that the oud/incense touch is definitely more detectable in the final part of the olfactory evolution. The more the juice evolves indeed the more the sombre and mysterious incensey coziness emerges and i start to detect woody, leathery (suede) and tobacco nuances which turn this complex aroma out such a mystic and almost decadent creation to be enjoyed by all those forbidding dark madames with the cult of the oriental mystery and the spirituality. Great longevity and projecting sillage on my skin.
Pros: Mystic and sumptuous. Fruity/incensey undertones.
Cons: Any in particular."
This scent has a very interesting profile, and I recommend giving it a sniff if just for the interesting work it makes you do in calculating what you are smelling. I've decided after several sessions of sniffing that it is a spice/suede scent. There are two lines under the general bouquet of spice! and suede! that are highly intriguing. One is a dusty bubble gum wrapper dryness....that I recall from decades ago. I'm speaking of the gum that arrived with collector baseball cards..star wars cards..what have you...so maybe it is a cardboard/woodsy dry sweetness. Two is the medicinal bitter oud bite. Is it oud? I would never offer this as an example of oud, but there is a "grab" of bandaid-y oud. These two subtle features are quite compelling for me. My complaint is this scent doesn't quite win me over. (Me me me. Yes this review is all about me!) I believe because all this complexity and harmony and chords of notes entwined stays at a single level of development..there is no transformation as you wear the perfume.
Pros: unique, chords of notes
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