Characterised by a flat coca cola accord, spiciness and woods. No oud here. Significantly overpriced, I see no reason why this should command a premium over the rest of the MFK range, which itself is pricy.
Oud perfumes are the new “orientals”. Like their early 20th century predecessors, their fantasy/reality ratio is sky-high. They are less overtly culturally offensive, but in terms of authenticity, they are just as much a bill of goods.
Francis Kurkdjian avoided the pitfall of attempting to mimic Arabic style. Instead, he treated oud like any other centerpiece note in western traditional perfumery. His Oud has some of the characteristic scent of oud materials, particularly the band-aid note, but the setting is unexpected. Rather than pairing oud with rose, syrup or smoke, Kurkdjian made a sort of woody-floral with a soft oud note. (Though the brand’s list of notes doesn’t include florals.)
Kurkdjian approaches oud as a material rather than a genre. He seems to have given it the same scrutiny he might ambroxan or rosewood, breaking it down into its constituent notes and evaluating the olfactory dynamics, seeing how it interacts with other materials. Some of oud’s traits are underscored, others are played down. By treating it to classical western perfume analysis and technique, Kurkdjian assimilated oud.
In skipping the Arabian fantasy, he avoids the stereotypes of the material. Of the hundreds of oud perfumes to hit the market in the past 5-10 years, not many stray from a narrow interpretation of the material. Kurkdjian took a measured approach and demonstrated his signature talent for composing a perfume that is somewhat unusual but not at all strange. It smells deliciously of shoe polish + lipstick + floor wax. It is cool to the touch and reserved. Kurkdjian aligned oud with patchouli, a material with some similar characteristics, to create a new style of woody-floral perfume. Oud and patchouli are both woody materials that range from pitchy highs to durable, resinous bass ranges. Patchouli’s camphorous chill matches oud’s rubber band-aid note and both share a dusty, woody feel. They don’t smell alike, but the behave similarly.
Classical perfumery has always had a loving appreciation of ‘off’ notes. The most effective materials of traditional perfumery tended to have a stark, asymmetric beauty at their core. Modulating them created a well-proportioned aesthetic that captured the interest and the imagination. Oud is well suited for a similar use—it is idiosyncratic and quintessentially jolie-laide. Kurkdjian didn’t disguise oud, but he did make it his own and proposed a new, western style of oud perfume.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud is a romantic and saturnine "silent" musky oud's rendition with a central rose/patchouli saffrony accord and a general musky-honeyed silkiness surrounding all the elements. Super smooth chic velvet. This juice is never watery, wild, fizzy or provocative but exactly the opposite (smooth, hyper classy, velvety, silky, incensey-resinous and sophisticated). Yes, basically "barbaric" elements as oudh, patchouli, cedar and also saffron are (by a sleight of hand) in here alchemically combined in to an exquisite, finally honeyed and perfectly balanced piece of musky refinement. The final cedar is honeyed to die for. Not a complex or multifaceted fragrance but surely a dreamy graceful scent for us. A divinely soapy-languid "pure soul of oud".
Not bad. This is not too earthy (a positive thing IMO)and it will catch some attention. I didn't think too highly of this one and received a few compliments on this one. A decent rose and patchouli note with a touch of saffron. Well played. 8.5/10
17th August, 2015 (last edited: 05th April, 2017)
A superb and distinguished fragrance;that captivates and allure, even the most discriminating of taste.OUD MAISON is one of the best oud scent indeed that when you walk into a room with it,you are sure to get everyones attention because you know that not other people will oud scent as great as you.just two sprays can boost your confidence.a artistic mix of opulent oud and the most gorgeous saffron by a genius FRANCIS KURKDJIAN. Sophisticated,Masterpiece,Classy,Gorgeous, Expensive,Special and Charismatic.
The oud,Saffron and patchouli are dominant to my nose.here oud is not as too overpowering as a lot of oud scents for me.the dry down develops soft yet distinctive and i could smell myself all day with it on.in fact when the perfume has reached it's final stage,and it is starting to fade away for good,it leaves an subtle,yet indelible trail behind.great on a cold and snowy evening use for everyone who wants to stand out in a crowd.if you want to feel something different,you should try this one.
Longevity?Remarkble on my skin.