Oud (2012)
by Maison Francis Kurkdjian


Oud information

Year of Launch2012
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 129 votes)

People and companies

HouseMaison Francis Kurkdjian
PerfumerFrancis Kurkdjian

About Oud

Oud is a shared / unisex perfume by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. The scent was launched in 2012 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian

Oud fragrance notes

Reviews of Oud

I'm traveling through the European winter storm of 2018 with this fragrance. Gentle, warm oud with touch of patchouli and something sweet, probably saffron.

Pure excellence. Sophisticated and elegant.
02nd March, 2018
This uses the same saffron as L'Agent Provocateur, which can be fun. They're similar enough to be confusing during moments when the saffron is strongest, but the general feeling of the opening of L'Agent Provocateur is better for me, with its rose notes. I don't think there's much oud in this, but what there is doesn't work as well with the saffron.

The base is the scratchy synthetic ambery woods I dislike, and it will not wash off.
19th August, 2017
A weak, nondescript, insipid, and banal offering without any redeeming characteristic. A burst of saffron followed by a flat watery-transparent note of vague woody-florals supported by MFK's signature dull patchouli accord. Disintegrates into nothingness in three hours.

16th February, 2017
Characterised by a flat coca cola accord, spiciness and woods. No oud here. Significantly overpriced, I see no reason why this should command a premium over the rest of the MFK range, which itself is pricy.
15th August, 2016
Oud perfumes are the new “orientals”. Like their early 20th century predecessors, their fantasy/reality ratio is sky-high. They are less overtly culturally offensive, but in terms of authenticity, they are just as much a bill of goods.

Francis Kurkdjian avoided the pitfall of attempting to mimic Arabic style. Instead, he treated oud like any other centerpiece note in western traditional perfumery. His Oud has some of the characteristic scent of oud materials, particularly the band-aid note, but the setting is unexpected. Rather than pairing oud with rose, syrup or smoke, Kurkdjian made a sort of woody-floral with a soft oud note. (Though the brand’s list of notes doesn’t include florals.)

Kurkdjian approaches oud as a material rather than a genre. He seems to have given it the same scrutiny he might ambroxan or rosewood, breaking it down into its constituent notes and evaluating the olfactory dynamics, seeing how it interacts with other materials. Some of oud’s traits are underscored, others are played down. By treating it to classical western perfume analysis and technique, Kurkdjian assimilated oud.

In skipping the Arabian fantasy, he avoids the stereotypes of the material. Of the hundreds of oud perfumes to hit the market in the past 5-10 years, not many stray from a narrow interpretation of the material. Kurkdjian took a measured approach and demonstrated his signature talent for composing a perfume that is somewhat unusual but not at all strange. It smells deliciously of shoe polish + lipstick + floor wax. It is cool to the touch and reserved. Kurkdjian aligned oud with patchouli, a material with some similar characteristics, to create a new style of woody-floral perfume. Oud and patchouli are both woody materials that range from pitchy highs to durable, resinous bass ranges. Patchouli’s camphorous chill matches oud’s rubber band-aid note and both share a dusty, woody feel. They don’t smell alike, but the behave similarly.

Classical perfumery has always had a loving appreciation of ‘off’ notes. The most effective materials of traditional perfumery tended to have a stark, asymmetric beauty at their core. Modulating them created a well-proportioned aesthetic that captured the interest and the imagination. Oud is well suited for a similar use—it is idiosyncratic and quintessentially jolie-laide. Kurkdjian didn’t disguise oud, but he did make it his own and proposed a new, western style of oud perfume.
21st June, 2016
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud is a romantic and saturnine "silent" musky oud's rendition with a central rose/patchouli saffrony accord and a general musky-honeyed silkiness surrounding all the elements. Super smooth chic velvet. This juice is never watery, wild, fizzy or provocative but exactly the opposite (smooth, hyper classy, velvety, silky, incensey-resinous and sophisticated). Yes, basically "barbaric" elements as oudh, patchouli, cedar and also saffron are (by a sleight of hand) in here alchemically combined in to an exquisite, finally honeyed and perfectly balanced piece of musky refinement. The final cedar is honeyed to die for. Not a complex or multifaceted fragrance but surely a dreamy graceful scent for us. A divinely soapy-languid "pure soul of oud".
02nd May, 2016

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