I've tested Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition (the new current well re-orchestrated version of the classic) directly nearby the Floris boutique in London 89 Jermyn Street. Floris intended to re-interpret (in accordance with a current more minimalistic taste) a old historical formula originally appointed in order to celebrate the Queen's birthday in the april of 1926. The old recipe (according with the Floris statement) has been just faintly "polished" in order to set down a more contemporary, clean and wearable type of concoction, preserving untouched anyway the original (almost baroque) "Grandeur". Well, actually the fragrance is still excellent, one of the most satisfactory violet/rose musky animalic and hesperidic bouquet around in perfumery, in my humble opinion of course. Royal, almost forbidding and extremely, extremely sophisticated. The initial royal bergamot (by soon caressed by soft jasmine, fresh lavender, orris root, patchouli and neutral rose) is superb, decadent and typically british. The fragrance seems by soon indeed articulated, luxurious, somewhat angular and hyper classy. The real protagonist is anyway a majestic violet (conjuring me vaguely- surely in a less dusty/incensey way- the same floral element mastering in Jul et Mad Amour de Palazzo) perfectly combined with ylang-ylang (airy, spacious, exotic-laundry), romantic jasmine, animalic musk and amber. It seems sometimes to catch in the air a sort of "cardamomish/musky/liquid tobacco veined" undertone (vaguely a la Bvlgari Blv for men, with all the necessary proportions and without any adumbration of synthetic balminess) but probably the feeling is just illusory. The rose, heady at the beginning, is still present in the background, conceited and luxuriant. A touch of vanilla, probably combined with honey and hints of fir resin, closes the round. Probably fresher musk and a touch of honeyed moss provide the animalic twist in the original version afforded in a thicker way by castoreum or civet. The final issue is simply gorgeous, devoted to tradition (classic, measured, aristocratic and luxurious) but at once surprisingly versatile, youthful and joyful. Highly recommended.
17th August, 2014 (last edited: 03rd February, 2015)