Eau Radieuse, namely an exotic cocktail with an immediate intense angular fizzy energy (red orange/pomegranate/watermelon/black cherry sort of) and a joyful tropical radiant/carefree fruitiness aroused all around. There is effectively a sort of un-ripe banana minty greenness as enveloping undertone throughout. The mint is a key element which joined with rhubarb and bamboo provides to enhance the general exoticism with its sort of Mojito type of undertone. Well, the aroma is synthetic for sure, slightly pharmaceutical and candied but this is not surprising for Humiecki&Graef and not so astonishing in reference with the final goal of this easy/youthful aroma destined to a people which probably could result slightly bored by the realistic masterworks of botanic alchemy. Just this, I find this aroma functional to its main object and not so monstrous for sure. Effectively I tend to love so much the implementation of the rhubarb note in perfumery and even in this case (as well as in the notorious renditions of the element in Buxton's Devil in Disguise, Les Liquides Imaginaire Bloody wood, may be Guerlain Homme, Apparition Homme Ungaro etc.) this element provides aqueous, slightly boozy/medicinal fizziness which is so congenial to summery sultry nights out with feasts, alcohol and parties. Yes I detect the "calonic" vibe, the aldehydic/hyper-futuristic/deodorant type/freezing/weirdly poisonous approach which Colin Maillard talked about but all the Humiecki&Graef's connoisseurs well know all this "vile pharmaceutical avant-gardism" is deliberately appointed by the "terrible guys" of this controversial brand. The rhubarb/bamboo accord is absolutely sparkling, fluidy, tea-like in vibe and exotic, exactly what the performer intended to arouse all around with a perfumed liquid like this named Eau Radieuse. Well, Humiecki&Graef does never make us to be bored about conformism or stuffs like that and in any case I really appreciate all the "debatable weirdness" this interesting brand is carring out in perfumery.
P.S= the deep dry down produces a sort of fat/humid vegetal saltiness (counteracting the fruity sweetness) which penetrates your brain in depth for long. Be ready to all this weirdness.
25th May, 2014 (last edited: 28th April, 2015)
Quite a peculiar fragrance which (spoiler alert!) sadly does "too much" and just goes wrong, like a Frankenstein monster that escapes the lab before being "completed" and receiving the sacred gift of consistency and coherence. The opening is unique and interesting, a bit unpleasant but somehow intriguing: a cold metallic accord both citrusy and aquatic, a ton of aldehydes, a geometric and freezing linear blend with bitter green notes and a really sour heart that somehow manages to mix with a delicate floral mentholated note, coming from a sort of decomposed, futuristic geranium. Perhaps there's also verbena or something like that, I smell a cold, freezing breezy note which smells like a bag of those sugarfree, super-icy eucalipthol candies – it refreshes your nose so much you better not inspire with too much strenght. It's an interesting and avant-garde "smell" which however I frankly can not manage to keep on my skin, there is an angular and ambiguous aldehydated/metallic/breezy feel that makes it quite elusive and too unfriendly to stay there. But as I said, it's interesting. After a while, a "weird but cool" poisonous subtle note emerges, a herbal/green touch somehow icy somehow narcotic with a boozy vibe, halfway between cold gin and ether. Cool and odd, however it then vanishes quite soon. So far so good, but then, sadly it all starts going worse and worse; if until now it somehow managed to keep it interesting, it just goes more simply "wrong". The horrible sort of "tropical" note emerges with a really unwanted strenght, and finds its way adding a disturbing and totally unrelated fruity touch which really does not fit, no matter efforts you make. And with that, we're basically on the drydown, which is persistent as hell, and sadly it's the worst part: a sort of half-aquatic (calonic), half-fruity cheap deodorant, with that same exact metallic freshness of the cheapest one on the market, that just stays there for hours with all its morbid and unpleasant presence. I hardly feel anything "radieuse" here, but I guess it's ironic.
Smells like a tropical fruit candy or chewing gum or a fruit punch.
Quite fruity with some odd unripe green notes, fairly sweet. Citrus - check. Mint - check.
It is not ghastly but it is rather bizarre and not appealing.
Too quirky for a young person, too juvenile for anyone over 18.
Mandarin and orange galore, unripe banana and green notes. A bizarre mash up between a sport fragrance and a dish-washing liquid with an extotic vibe. Smells like Ajax Tropical. Terrifying!