The opening is nice and interesting, and unlike other Humiecki & Graef scents, at least here it manages to stay like this for its whole life cycle. Aldehydes, some camphor-medicinal vibe, a lot of spices, an anise-amber base, some sticky/silky note I do not get entirely but fits perfectly, aerial and geometrical floral notes which smell almost like magnolia and tuberose, some slight honey notes, and finally a balsamic-incense subtle accord. A bit hard to describe: in fact it's a round, thick and dense smell, overall really nice, wearable, interesting and fresh, which feels like a double face half-velvety half-metallic piece of some avant-garde cloth, icy and intriguing at the same time, although a bit cold and unfriendly like a "non-place" (airport lounges and those kind of "non-lieux" as Marc Augé called them). As minutes pass the scent gets a simpler and more defined shape, becoming a pleasant, cozy and well-executed narcotic and musky floral on amber and aromatic woods. Really nice, still with a bit of "weird", which is cool and keeps your attention and curiosity up. It then slowly kind of loses this contemporary "avantgardeness" and goes back in time, settling on a rich, nostalgic, bold central note of honeysuckle on vanilla, quite dusty and round, pleasant and with a slight boozy feel. This is what remains from the initial structure, like a futuristic building collapsing and revealing ancient ruins. It's an interesting and nice feeling, although the the "con" counterpart of this is that at this stage it is also a bit more predictable and dull – in fact, the drydown is nice, soapy, silky and floral: tons of scents do that, but if you want to, say, "reach it" via a different way, then this is worth a try.
Lovely Violets, But...
This has a quite lovely opening of fresh, lightly powdery, woody violets, quickly joined by a slightly salty note reminiscent of a softer Dans Tes Bras. Then ten minutes in, l get a note l can only describe as "lightly used ladies underthings". This is not a "dirty" note exactly, more the scent of underwear which has been worn for just an hour or two after bathing. Not altogether unpleasant, but an unmistakeable scent nonetheless! l'm guessing this arises from whatever variety of musk is being used here, but l have never detected this disconcerting note in a perfume before. From here, the fragrance does not develop any further, & stays close to the skin, but it lasts a very respectable ten hours before fading.
l really love the opening of this one, but "that" note would prevent me from ever wearing it in public; way too embarrassing!
07th June, 2013 (last edited: 21st April, 2014)