In perfect Humiecki&Graef's style Multiple Rouge strikes us for its "askew" juxtapositions of apparently classic final (juicy and finally minimally balmy in this case) sophistication and initial disorientating (and yes more than vaguely "pulp") damp dissonance (it happens on my skin with Askew and almost all the others of the same line). I don't quote this juice such a particularly genial or innovative one but frankly "inter nos said" I like it. Multiple Rouge is not actually a veritable "multiple" one as can be evalued an Habit Rouge (a real rouge and multiple creation) for instance. This one is problematically fruity for sure but I don't detect the fruity jammy vibe some talk about but more properly a sort of almost angular complex fruitiness. At the beginning I don't see at all the "multiple" side while detect on the contrary an almost linear radiant fruitiness (powerful infamous grapefruit plus wet peaches) I was on the point to dismiss. What about later? Well, after a really humid and almost fleshy fruity welcome the aroma tends to retrocede towards a more restrained and subtle level. I keep at this point to detect the deep red berries based more intense juiciness juxtaposed to a less intense orangy one and to a further grapefruit oriented intensity in a sort of kaleidoscopic game of red/fruity overlappings. I catch a minimal touch of earthy/burnt sugar centered bitterness (probably afforded by a patchouli/seasoned cinnamon accord) slightly counteracting the "skattered" fruity juiciness. What else? There is a general cool/vegetal, slightly ozonic and musky freshness around (after the initial almost angular and citric wetness) possibly provided by coriander and immortelle while the final trail performs a subtle violet/red berries fruity/floral spark really acute and fizzy (but finally almost laundry/cosmetical). The final aroma works in a carnal/exotic and really intense (almost gassy) way whether you put your nose close to skin while at distance you can catch in the air all the Multiple Rouge's feminine subtle fruity/floral sophisticated sensuality. A really interesting potion possibly appealing to all those exuberant funs of the olfactory hyper (acid) freak experimentations.
Multiple Rouge is crazy stuff. As most of the other fragrances in the Humiecki & Graef's range, it is way too easy to dismiss it because of its weirdness, complexity and for the fact it runs on a thin line between mainstream pop and pure avant-garde, between glory and precipice, between being an absolute masterpiece and a total prank. Personally, I've learned that when it comes to Humiecki & Graef and, more in general, to Mr.Laudamiel, nothing is like it seems and a second chance is always highly recommended. Even a third or a fourth if necessary…
As a matter of fact, it took me a couple of years to completely get Multiple Rouge but I'm so glad I didn't give up. This is an incredibly alive composition of red and sparkling fruity notes enriched by other sourish citric accords and soft cinnamon patterns. There's a great juxtaposition between the bitter cilantro and a moderate sweetness inherent to fruit while immortelle provides depth and body to an otherwise too transparent composition. Ozonic notes are remarkable but Laudamiel's mastery preserves the fragrance to cross the border of cheap-smelling and mainstream girly stuff. In fact, Multiple Rouge smells incredibly unique.
Most definitely not an easy fragrance and, most of all, definitely not to everyone's tastes but I'm more and more convinced that Laudamiel is a true genius of our times.
Gee, lets sing along with Justin Bieber as we skip down the lane...