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I'm giving a hesitant thumbs up to Oakmoss. Honestly, it's taken many many wears and sniffs for me to accept it as anything other than just plain gross, but it's definitely growing on me.
To me, it smells like a fairly simple chypre with the galbanum, patchouli, and moss in the base ratcheted way up, making the bergamot on top so musty and green that it smells kind of awful, almost rotten. There's a buzz of talcum powder and the dirtiness inherent in lavender, but the mossy green base is the star of the show.
In terms of comparisons, Oakmoss reminds me of a cross between a late-70's mossy green chypre and a powdery mens barbershop scent, but coming together in a slightly gross way that's very 1920's-30's French. Oakmoss strikes me as being in the same spirit as other old-school French stinkers like vintage Habanita or Pour Un Homme. It doesn't smell like them, mind you - it just isn't afraid to be a bit challenging at first in order to achieve a great payoff later.
Basically, if you give the perfume enough time to settle, it gets really nice. There's that old-school magic that happens as a proper chypre slips from bergamot into labdanum and as the sweet labdanum flavors the incoming patchouli, which in turn gives depth to the earthy forest-floor smell of the oakmoss. This perfume does this all wonderfully, despite the roughness of the first hour or so, and that's the reason for the thumbs up.
13 March, 2012