Lalfeorosa opens with the usual, Carrollian potion you have to swallow before accessing the hall of mirrors of Pregoni's imagination. Pungent, invigorating, somehow spooky medicinal accord of cloves, nutmeg and balsamic notes, with however a dense, tasty, vivid floral heart, a load spices, a camphor accord, musky notes, everything floating and melting so tightly and so quickly I give up trying to list notes and passages. Then there's this powdery, talcum, antique rose incapsulated in a post-industrial synthetic-medicinal accord, which is totally fascinating and well-executed. More than smelling it, you're perceiving her, "spying" her, peeping from a keyhole. A dissected, androgynous, dirty, contemporary, playful and nostalgic chypre. The floral and balsamic heart emerges with increasing warmth and depth, always wrapped in O'Driù signature, bizarre herbal-medicinal accord. The feelings and the echoes are the usual ones of the "odriudism", a clinic, urban, surgical, oniric world with a palpable Brechtian feel of alienation. All smells great, still out of place... perfectly out of place. What I enjoy the most here is a dusty, sweet floral accord with a hay, rural aftertaste, incredibly well blended with a lot of more contemporary and "chemical" suggestions. The drydown lasts for ages and it's cozy, refined, totally distinctive (as all of Pregoni's fragrances), with a classic vibe and an "oddity" personality. I just love how he manages to play effortlessly and playfully with structures and clichés, and with materials, without simply "renovating" the tradition or offering "interpretations" of tradition, but just simply inventing from rough. Nothing smells, smelled and probably will ever smell like this. Again: bravissimo!
17th May, 2014 (last edited: 18th May, 2014)
One of the best fragrances released by this brand which has lots of characters and changes very much in every step and that's the reason why I'm calling it one of the best because all notes blended perfectly with each other and all together playing a masterpiece symphony in your nose!
At the opening I can smell a spicy scent with very light and bright floral notes and hint of sweetness in the background.
The spices are cinnamon and I believe turmeric which both together give the scent a spicy feel and turmeric give it a light earthy/powdery aroma (not too much)
As time goes by You have still that spices and you will get a little stronger sweetness and floral notes.
The floral notes are mostly jasmine and chamomile and they give the scent a light and pleasant white flowery scent.
I don't smell any rose or saffron in this fragrance.
With more time going on, patchouli shows up in and give the scent slightly earthy feeling but disappeared after about 15 minutes!
In the base I can smell a creamy vanilla smell with those beautiful and white feeling flowers hand to hand to the end.
Projection is good and longevity is around 5-6 hours on my skin.
Lalfeorosa is more easily approachable than many other fragrances of the great italian brand. Really smooth and almost yummy this is an atypical O'Driu', so far from the medieval conjurations. In the middle of the initial (landmark) structuring dust of culinary spices as saffron, cumin and cinnamon (with their sort of hay kind of taste), a soft and cool/herbal rose/vanilla breeze caresses your senses in a while before a deeper and more intense petitgrain/jasmine/fruity notes accord takes the stage dominating the scene till the final whistle and submitting an initial dainty rosey caress. An heady patchouli darkens a juice imprinting boldness and voluptuousness to the floral mélange. There is a certain aromatic smoothness rising up gradually as soon as the citric/floral pungent petitgrain starts fading. I don't detect any listed incense on my wrist but just a smooth vanillic floral/spicy wave really rounded, slightly smoky, even aromatic and velvety. The juice in an high quality one for sure but not my favorite O'Driu'. The dry down is indeed pleasant, soft but not utterly innovative, articulated, epic and ancestral as many other products of the brand in my opinion. A medium rating just because i have always nuclear expectations from this niche house.
Today I'm trying Lalfeorosa. I have a somewhat different reaction than others; I don't care for it although I do find some good moments.
It starts with a very vanilla - biscuit - toasty caramel note, which almost immediately disappears and then reappears and persists at the very end. Here is the deal-breaker. I don't like foody or gourmand scents and despite the other good qualities, I can't warm up to this scent.
After the opening chord, the scent moves to an aromatic stage which is smooth, substantial, spicy and which has a hint of leather. Nice.
Then, gorgeous rose notes appear, and the scent reaches its apex for me. The rose notes are lovely, and combine with the "incense" which may well be oud since oud combines well with rose and is a traditional accompaniment. Sadly, this phase is very brief, perhaps two minutes maximum.
Then, a very assertive tonka/hay/coumarin note blusters in and utterly vanquishes the rose. The coumarin increases, picks up all the stray spice molecules, and works to create a rather tangy tobacco-leaf note with hints of toasted nuts.
Finally, the scent lapses back to a semi-gourmand style, gets sweeter, and I wash it off. :/
Another outstanding delivery from O'Driù.
If you're getting sick of beautiful and catchy top notes evolving into synthetic and predictable drydowns, O'Driù is well worth checking out. In this context, among the newest brands, the italian firm has one of the most solid ranges available on the market. Ok, their fragrances are surely not the most easily approachable around and (may) need some wearings to be fully understood and appreciated but, once you've become familiar with the house challenging herbal signature, you'll be redy to discover some truly amazing compositions.
Lalfeorosa could make a perfect place to start exploring this wonderful range being, IMO, one of Pregoni's easiest to like deliveries. The usual culinary, sort of apothekary opening is toned down to quickly reveal a mindblowing drydown of spicy floral patterns (mainly rose and jasmine) and sweetish/balsamic elements such as tonka, vanilla and patchouli. Smooth yet incredibly rich, warm and extremely well balanced. A wower.
For several reasons, Lalfeorosa made me think about the most classic Guerlains (ok, I said it). Don't get me wrong, the fragrance doesn't share many objective similarities with the french firm but, at the same time, it shows the same solidity and overall top quality of ingredients. It's classic yet incredibly innovative and, most of all, when they do it right, there's no match for anyone else...
Lalfeorosa does not list dill spice as a note at all, but when I first put it on skin that is immediately what I smelled. The dill is joined shortly by other spices like fiery red pepper and maybe even a bit of saffron. The dill recedes, but the red pepper remains, coupling with a beautiful supporting rose note with hints of lavender. I confess even though tonka bean is listed in the heart notes, I did not experience it until later on in the base, combining with patchouli and the remnants of the saffron and red pepper that remain. This base is somewhat sweet due to the tonka bean and patchouli combo, but the spice keeps it well in-check. Longevity and projection both are excellent.
I am a sucker for both spicy and rose scents in general, so I have a predisposition to enjoy a combo of them both in a scent such as Lalfeorosa, but I was entirely captivated with it from the get-go and it has exceeded even my high expectations. It is innovative and unique, while accessible from a wearabilty perspective, and definitely expertly crafted with top-notch materials by a majorly talented nose in Angelo Pregoni. In short, it is a masterpiece. With only enough juice for 8 bottles created in Italy at a cost of 888 euros each, I regrettably will have to live vicariously through the lucky few that have the financial and logistical means to acquire it. That said, I will joyfully wear the sample I have of Lalfeorosa with great care, so as to be able to experience this amazing composition as long as possible. 5 of 5 stars.