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Despite the note list making it look like a chypre, Shiloh X is, at least on me, basically a very modern sweet, fresh grapefruit scent. Seriously, it's really sweet, lacking the pucker that I like in grapefruit. In fact, it reminds me a lot of Jo Malone's similarly hyper-sweetened Grapefruit cologne. It's got what smells to me like an interesting overdose of hedione, a weird chemical that smells like the bright freshness of citrus without actually smelling like citrus, so it has a crazy sparkle to the topnotes that's probably the most interesting thing about it.
I suppose that putting a strong base under the candied grapefruit topnotes would have added some unwanted dark undertones, so Shiloh X seems content to keep its basenotes very very weak. In fact, it took a really heavy application to be able to smell much of anything once the grapefruit burned off. It's a pity, because the base quietly lives up to the promise of its notes, a nice woody smell that slowly morphs into a tight mix of vetiver and patchouli, which eventually breaks down further into a decent mossy vanilla patchouli. Honestly, the base is much more appealing than the candy-sweet fruity top, but I'm sure this will nonetheless earn its share of fans. Lovers of Atelier's citruses will likely enjoy Shiloh X, as well as fans of TDH or Brooklyn who are looking for the interesting sparkling citrus but minus the mineral or leathery bases.
28th May, 2012