Exultat opens with a beautiful, airy, irresistibly aromatic accord of sweet, silky, floral-fruity notes with a bolder, darker and mystical base of olibanum and patchouli, plus also ginger and slight spices. The floral-fruity accord is completely new to me, unusual and great, it's basically a fresh, sparkling, zesty but also sweet and silky blend, really tasty and incredibly, well, simply "good", sweetened by vanilla, resins, perhaps sandalwood. Basically a sort of "candied flowers" accord with a sparkling, slightly boozy (almost champagne-like), lively and bubbly personality. First time I smell something like this, and it's really good, plus it blends utterly well and gently with the incense side. The main flower here is violet, devoid of any waxy/powdery "heaviness", it is rather bright, fresh, light, almost juicy thanks to the juxtaposition with fresh citrus and bergamot notes. All is great here: materials, ideas, composition. I would define this basically a fruity-floral-resinous incense totally on the fresh, colourful, bright, sparkling side, still with a genius shady and mysterious side. I rarely smelled something so new, nice and charming – not "avant-garde" new, just a smart and bright variation on some rather common themes. Plus it's totally refined and versatile, cozy, with a perfect persistence (all day long). My congratulations to Maria Candida Gentile for having been able to come up with such a great idea (finally a non-liturgical/heavy incense) and having managed to compose it so well!
Exultat, the name says it. It exceeds my expectations. A very well balanced fragrance made with passion. Round and edgy at the same time. I tried this on recommendation of a friend and fell in love. The oranges give just a nearly undetectable wiff of sourness and freshness to the depart which is yet essential for the balance of the fragrance. Then you immediately perceive the dry elegant cedar, the earthy vetiver and by this point you should already be in love. The incense is balsamic, eccelsiastic, yet not too tamed. It curls through the whole construction like a clean grey smoke directed to heaven but clearly coming from earth. Exultat has depth, is resoundingly spiritual and creates a bridge between you and your reflecting inner self. A cloud of soft ethereal violets embrace the feminine side of this beauty. Wearabel for both genders a real discovery. Worth every penny. I adour
I will soon head off to get a bottle
A weird central spicy (sweet spices and hints of pepper) and orangy olibanum/vetiver accord masters in my opinion this particular italian creation. Since the beginning Exultat strikes for its own (all individual) weird peculiarity (probably uniqueness). There is by soon all around an eccentric and barely boozy sort of smooth (musky) spicy accord with a sheer candied approach effectively conjuring vaguely the mediterranean Chinotto taste with its barely fizzy (and cola type) rhubarb/myrtle sparkling feel which in this case is anyway kind of sticky-candied, spicy orangy, violet/cherry flavoured and almost ostensibly leathery in the long final trail. The incense is by soon exceptionally candied, softly musky, kind of berrish (because of the spicy orange/violet accord) and spicy/ambery (with a virile and almost organic ambery-dusty undertone fizzing under your nose). Perfumed and seasoned woods plus a soft musky vetiver take part to the candied ceremony absolutely mastered by this note of dark syrupy olibanum with a rhubarb undertone, a spicy rhum vibe and a final vetiver/musk/suede velvety silkiness. The candy/suede type of intriguing temperament retains its run slightly enriched in my opinion by minimal hints of soft vanilla and probably by a secret ambergris virile caress (I don't think this fragrance leans towards the feminine side, being on the contrary unisex or probably slightly more properly manly). I have to say that the violet is central in this olfactory experiment, together with a weird bitter/boozy (myrtle-citrus-rhubarb) secret touch and an hight quality of modern and sensual olibanum (anything but liturgical) wonderfully soothed and enriched by musks, vetiver and may be balsams (further the overmentioned ambergris). The previous olfactory connection provided en exceptional modern sensuality disgorging in to the carnal/organic territories. Stout longevity and more than good projection. With no hesitation a huge thumbs up by me.
01st March, 2014 (last edited: 25th May, 2014)
My nose exults! Such a white, perfec incense. On my skin fortunately loses al the sweetness I smell on the mouillette, and become as pure as a prayer. A pity it doesn't last much. Such a great unexpected creation!!!!
Citrus to begin, but an unusual treatment of citrus, not sharp, or clear, but softly clouded, and a little woody. Petitgrain, joined by vetiver and peppery incense. If I say that Exultat is powdery I will have to explain that it is not powdery in the usual sense, rather it has a quality a bit like steamed fragrant rice, but drier. A fragrant cloud.
The notes are listed as;
Top; Somalian Incense, Sicilian Orange, Bitter Orange, Lime
Heart; Violet and Violet Leaf
Base; "Legni Preciosi", Haiti Vetiver, Texas Cedar
Don't expect Toulouse Volets or Parma Violets. The Violet is not dominant for me, although I see that it is for some others. What I do detect throughout is a beautifully aromatic quality. I wonder if that is the contribution of the violets and the violet leaf, in concert with the peppery incense, the vetiver and of course the cedar when it arrives.
Briefly, in my view, a woody, soft, citrus/frankincense/vetiver/cedar with an ethereal aromatic quality. Very arresting, spellbinding. At once classical but yet very modern. Not at all typical of the naturals school. Incredibly beautiful. Sillage and longevity are good.
I'll skip the inspiration anecdote regarding Exultat because, being myself Italian, I find it a bit stereotyped and, therefore, uninteresting. Now, onto the fragrance...
Exultat opens with bitter notes of orange and lime which pair perfectly with the massive dose of frankincese immediately detectable since the very beginning. Simply fantastic in its severity. A candied violet note, which I'm usually not a big fan of, takes over right away smoothing the general austerity and leading the composition towards more friendly territories where the incense brings to mind of clean liturgical vestments stored in antique chests of drawers. Slightly dusty, slightly powdery with a good dose of mistery. The violet-incense accord settles down and merges with a thick base of cedarwood and vetiver giving birth to an incredibly long lasting drydown which, together with the opening, is the best part of this composition.
Do I like it? Not completely. I actually can't get past the candied violet driven mid-phase (in this case, this is just a matter of personal taste) but, if you're fine with the accord, Exultat represents one of the most original renditions of liturgical frankincense.