I get a strong oud that has a tobacco like effect, though none is listed...a thick rich smell - a dirty gourmand - opulent animalic honey dripping over caramel - very comforting smell - kind of wraps itself around me - the combo of oud/flower gives me a little bit of a boozy feel - very well blended - hard to pinpoint individual notes - just comes across as one big beautiful flowery/honey/caramel oudball accord...for sure an oud gourmand...if you like SoOud Asmar, A*Men, Animale Animale, etc...I would check this out...I find this to be a friendly oud - comfortable wearing this in public...unisex...as it goes down the oud mellows out and gets more of a regular woody scent accented with musk...at the end it gets very smooth soft animalic musky and reminds me of Al Oudh and MKK...color of fragarance is light brown with darker brown spots floating around...Overall the fragrance gives me an image of a vase carved out of oud, lightly rubbed with vanilla/musk holding a bouquet of flowers and a hot honey/caramel sauce drizzled over it all...love smelling this...big thumbs up...
Maluk wins me over each time I try it, because, truth to tell, the thought of a supersaturated honey fragrance breeds no anticipation in me. However, I end up enjoying it, despite my prejudices and preferences. For a warm scent it wears surprisingly well in all weathers.
The honey is the main event in Mamluk, rich, unctuous, supersweet; but also, it would appear, buzzing with pheromones, like being part of the hive and rubbing up against one’s hairy cohort. It’s this influence from nature that brings the honey theme alive, because Mamluk’s makers also load it up with caramel and fat, nectar-laden jasmine. Such a combination would normally make me shudder, but somehow along with its excess there’s also a smoothness to the composition that makes it unforced and quite enticing. Underneath this lazy river of honey there is the merest dab of dry oud and some pretty piercing musks that brighten the more torpid notes.
Mamluk is the Xerjoff's gourmandic take on oud. Honey and caramel are joined in the opening by a refined osmanthus note while a subdued yet sort of dirty, oud note serves as a necessary counterpart to balance the overall sweetness. Everything is so calibrated to never result challenging or particularly exotic. Full bodied yet not heavy but, while extremely nicely executed, a bit too polite and safe to my tastes.
If you like a easily approachable take on oud but don't want to sacrifice quality, this is for you. Me? I stick to zafar,
Mamluk is a buttermilky, caramelized floral. I never thought Oud could be so mouth-watering, though it is hard to appreciate the Oud here until a bit later in the journey. Mamluk mellows into a golden woody base with a warm and velvety glow. And yes, completely unisex. Competent and comforting, but at this elevated price point, there are other toffee gourmands out that do this as well. In fact, I find Lira (from Xerjoff´s own Casamoratti line) to be a more adventurous rendition of this delicious Caramel accord in pairing it with some appropriately tart citrus and lavender.
After application I'm picking up a bouquet of musky jasmine and osmanthus which is very pretty and floral with a lovely caramel sweetness in the background. And because these notes dominate the whole fragrance I just cannot pick out the Oud, I'm sure its in the mix but I cannot detect it.
Now the balance of the scent is good and the carmel sweetness is not heavy but within the goldilocks zone of been just right. It's this note thats stops the scent been too feminine from the jasmine/osmanthus floral notes.
I have to say this is the best smelling one I have tried so far and the caramel sweetness behind the floral bouquet is really lovely. This fragrance is easy to like and approachable for everyone without any of the Oud funk that could be off putting. A thumbs up from me.