Beautifully sweet fragrance...
How nice this one is! A sweet, old fashioned, decadent kind of borderline gourmand. Mamluk is a fragrance that is my kind of style.
If you have tried vintage Guerlain - Shalimar, or Serge Lutens - Muscs Koublaï Khän, you will appreciate this one I think.
So to my nose it's all about oud, honey, caramel and jasmine. It's a sweet one, but not overbearingly so. It has a "dirtiness" that comes I think from the oud mixed with honey and indolic jasmine. I've encountered this kind of jasmine before. It can have an almost "fecal" note to it which I think may disturb some people. Personally I don't think it crosses over into "gross" territory. I thin the notes are blended exceptionally well. Almost like a honeyed, caramelised oud and a hit of over ripe jasmine garlands. Personally, I like it. I like some "dirtiness" in my fragrances. Needless to say, with the price on this one, you MUST try before you buy it.
Side note about the name: The name, Mamluk (مملوك) is an Arabic word meaning "owned". It refers to the slave warriors who ruled parts of the middle east and who spent their lives in service of a lord or ruler, as personal bodyguards. Very much like the Samurai of Japan. They were highly trained warriors who had great status and privilege in society. So this fragrance has the equivalent of the name "Samurai" in the Middle East. An interesting connection, but whether they smelled like this is anyone's guess!
Honey. Lots of honey. Then jasmine, then more honey. At one point I think I detect some caramel, but it’s tripled dipped in honey. There’s a hint of something green and alluringly musky (indole?), but even it’s marinated and then stuffed full of honey.
No. Hell, no.
Mamluk is exactly the type of scent that will make people in social events look at you with desbelief, all raised eyebrows and such, trying to decipher whether you haven't bathed for two weeks, covering your stench by spraying huge amounts of Angel in the meantime, or you are simply wearing some outrageously priced, high-end niche perfume. And just out of political correctness, or maybe fear of embarassing themselves, they'll never dare to ask for an answer, allowing you to deliberately suffocate people in your wake, and get away with it.
I get a strong oud that has a tobacco like effect, though none is listed...a thick rich smell - a dirty gourmand - opulent animalic honey dripping over caramel - very comforting smell - kind of wraps itself around me - the combo of oud/flower gives me a little bit of a boozy feel - very well blended - hard to pinpoint individual notes - just comes across as one big beautiful flowery/honey/caramel oudball accord...for sure an oud gourmand...if you like SoOud Asmar, A*Men, Animale Animale, etc...I would check this out...I find this to be a friendly oud - comfortable wearing this in public...unisex...as it goes down the oud mellows out and gets more of a regular woody scent accented with musk...at the end it gets very smooth soft animalic musky and reminds me of Al Oudh and MKK...color of fragarance is light brown with darker brown spots floating around...Overall the fragrance gives me an image of a vase carved out of oud, lightly rubbed with vanilla/musk holding a bouquet of flowers and a hot honey/caramel sauce drizzled over it all...love smelling this...big thumbs up...
Maluk wins me over each time I try it, because, truth to tell, the thought of a supersaturated honey fragrance breeds no anticipation in me. However, I end up enjoying it, despite my prejudices and preferences. For a warm scent it wears surprisingly well in all weathers.
The honey is the main event in Mamluk, rich, unctuous, supersweet; but also, it would appear, buzzing with pheromones, like being part of the hive and rubbing up against one’s hairy cohort. It’s this influence from nature that brings the honey theme alive, because Mamluk’s makers also load it up with caramel and fat, nectar-laden jasmine. Such a combination would normally make me shudder, but somehow along with its excess there’s also a smoothness to the composition that makes it unforced and quite enticing. Underneath this lazy river of honey there is the merest dab of dry oud and some pretty piercing musks that brighten the more torpid notes.
Mamluk is the Xerjoff's gourmandic take on oud. Honey and caramel are joined in the opening by a refined osmanthus note while a subdued yet sort of dirty, oud note serves as a necessary counterpart to balance the overall sweetness. Everything is so calibrated to never result challenging or particularly exotic. Full bodied yet not heavy but, while extremely nicely executed, a bit too polite and safe to my tastes.
If you like a easily approachable take on oud but don't want to sacrifice quality, this is for you. Me? I stick to zafar,