This thing’s nuts. It’s a variant on the rose / oud / saffron theme but they’ve thrown in two unnerving accords for the hell of it. One’s a soapy floral that juts out like a busted limb, and the other smells like, well, dung. The florals seem like a cross between geranium and lavender, which is probably what’s making it so damn soapy. The oud, while a bit barnyard, is no more terrifying than some of the other poo-ey ouds out there. However, it’s the synthesis of synthy Eastern tropes, the soap, and the oud that brews up an olfactory image of a highly-trafficked restroom for me (albeit a ritzy, perfumed one). The note combination doesn’t work at all in my opinion, and the whole thing’s way out of balance (the soapy florals are high, the oud accord and the rose/saffron are low). After a while, the oud vanishes altogether and you’re left with something that smells a bit like Salvador Dali PH—that same kind of cacophony of notes. Jarring, clumsy, and generally unsure of itself.
Xerjoff Fars is impressive smelling, typically Xerjoff as I understand the house, and therefore just ok.
Xerjoff isn't bad, as long as you don't expect too much going in (like most things).
If you like Tom Ford Noir de Noir and/or Oud Wood, you might like this. I'm not sure I like any of them, but they could be growing on me. Or maybe I'm being too open minded.
29th April, 2015 (last edited: 20th June, 2015)
Fars (or “Farts”, as a friend of mine correctly referred to this) opens as a fairly pleasant patchouli-ambergris floral scent with sweet-anisic notes and a juicy-herbal, and slightly fruity touch which kind of reminded me of tea. Sandalwood and vetiver on the base, both quite conventional but pleasant (the sort of “juicy” sweetness may come from sandalwood, probably). That’s it for quite long, also oud-ish somehow, even if it is not listed. Then it slowly becomes more dry, more astringent and decidedly muskier, in a partially pleasant way; the muskiness is “real”, grayish and dusty, but also revealing a synthetic bitterness which won’t go away. Still counter-balanced but sweet-floral and ambery notes. Overall a globally inoffensive musky-earthy-woody scent with floral-sweet nuances, posh and restrained, resembling to any Montale just replacing oud with a patchouli-ambroxan-woods accord. That same kind of synthetic, trendy “elegance” is here too. Conventionally sophisticated, safely uncreative and not particularly distinctive, “smelling expensive” (before than “good”), fairly plastic and utterly pretentious. But long-lasting. The price tag is hilariously pathetic, but if you find it on sale for 30/40 EUR, then it’s worthy the purchase.
Xerjoff Oud Stars: Fars is clearly an attempt (decently concretized) to perform a modern-light floral aromatic/fougere with an oudh centered resinous (musky-boise) dry down. The way in which juniper berries, aromatic lavender, citrus, pepper and geranium/jasmine are combined with the woody resins hangs out in a really pleasant and wearable aromatic way. Paradoxically the oudh's "spicy gassiness" is more notable in the top for few minutes (it seems to detect a touch of saffron too) while gradually a pleasant aromatic/floral presence starts disclosing its fresh drier subtleness providing class and distinction. Anyway, I prefer a more classically sharp woods-moss-ambergris dry down in these cases while in this fragrance an intense forest resin's presence and the ordinary agarwood resinous substance (less dusty-synthetic than in the opening and more properly creamy-woody) lead finally the aroma towards the woody-resinous-balmy-oriental territories (I would write better "semi-oriental", anyway the aroma is finally light and floral, slightly soapy, never massive or deep). I detect frankly several points in common with Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud Concentree which shares with the Xerjoff's one a fresh/citric/aromatic backbone based on musk, citrus, aromatic lavender, coriander e/o juniper (in a far less floral way to be honest) being anyway finally more leather oriented and less properly woody resinous. The "long tail" dry down is really subtle, delicate, floral (in a spicy sophisticated way), almost soapy. A nice, basically not innovative and easy to wear woodsy oudh for us.
07th January, 2015 (last edited: 08th January, 2015)
Fars has received the least comment of the Oud Stars. Is it because in attempting something a bit different it actually comes across as quite familiar? Let me explain...
The intention was to make a West meets East kind of perfume, combining the essentially European notes of bergamot and lavender with the heavier nagarmotha and oud. The marriage seems to be blessed, as the resulting creation is exquisitely wearable, though also recognizably Eastern – one suspects many an attar merchant could have something a bit similar in their wares.
The most striking aspect of Fars is how easily the lavender floats over the oud – I think this may be because there is great dynamism in the heart and base notes here, the notes positively shoot up the nostrils. The impression is bit like the strongly scented arecanut (supari) sold on the Indian subcontinent, with a splash of acetone thrown in for good measure. The main thing is that it’s bewitching and addictive, a bit like (whisper it!) a Montale oud. Geranium at the heart which combines really well with sandalwood probably contributes much to the forward motion of this (if you’ve encountered this accord in Czech and Speake’s No 88 you’ll know what I’m on about).
All in all, an oud with personality and punch, that can be worn comfortably in warm weather.