I bought this blind ... as it is impossible to find anywhere. For those of you who are fans of rich, dark, and sweet fragrances ... here she is. I usually shy away from such frags but for some reason love this. It starts off a bit strong as you would expect from an eau de parfum, but soon mellows into a lush rich patchouli/chocolate/vanilla mix. Sillage is fair, but it has nice lasting power (about 6 hours on me). As most others alluded to, this is not your hippy-ish patchouli but rather a rich, smooth, well constructed fragrance that you won't smell on every other Joe passing by. Interestingly enough, the other fragrance that sort of reminds me of this take on patchouli is Jacomo Rouge (albeit a bit brighter out of the gate). I found a 'tester' of this for around $21 online ... how can you beat that? Well worth the investment.
Very good take on patchouli mix for the price. I get a flavor of Muglar's AMen minus the tar notes, though Molinard's Patchouli Intense does focus heavy on the patchouli aspect of this fragrance. I have to admit helps cut down on the scent becoming overly sweet like AMen. Puzzles me why Molinard did not market this as unisex it's very masculine by today's standards of what is on the market for men and feel most women would shy away as finding this too masculine.
Don't expect it to swear on the bible to tell patchouli, the whole patchouli, and nothing but patchouli. It's more of a corky, tannic, vanillic, cocoa-powder floral, anchored to a prominent but pared note of patchouli.
Zooming in on the patchouli note, it exhibits only the buttery and the earthy facets of patchouli. The camphor is absent. The sweet-sour hum is silent. Esters are absent. It's quite a sedate rendition, not actively seductive, but perhaps open to offers.
Clearly, we are seeing mostly the patchoulol/terpene component of patchouli, and little of the norpatcholenol/tricyclic terpenoid component. To achieve this result, would require additional steps in the process: probably enzymatc maceration of the raw plant material prior to distillation, perhaps with hemicellulase. Then, an additional refinement process to isolate the patch alcohol from the mix. Why would they go to the trouble do this, I puzzle to myself, only to end up with the less interesting slice of the cake?
Then it occurs to me: patchulol is an important constituent in the systhesis of the chemotherapy drug paclitaxel. MAybe somebody has set up a large-scale patchoulol production operation, and as a consequence, this terpene is now cheap.
Then, the missing limbs of the patchouli can be provided with prostheses in the form of neroli, vanilla, labdanum. Those clever chaps in Grasse.
The vanilla, unfortunately, causes me ennui. My problem. I have surfeited on the pod of late.
I appreciate this, in the way one might marvel at the beautiful Rolex Submariner with the sweep second hand, that one can buy for $15 from a man on the street in Kowloon.
A Dark Sweet Patchouli Scent
A sweet dark chocolate like liquor with patchouli is what I'm mainly picking up. It is rich and gourmondish and smells very nice if you like dark sweet scents. Underneath this is a dose of sandalwood supporting the star of the show notes.
I get about seven hours longevity and projection is pretty good.
Where's all the fuss about this one? It's a fraction of the cost of all those fancy niche patchoulis, yet totally ignored. A wonderful blend of dark, smooth patchouli with orange and vanilla, initially reminiscent of the scent of a dark chocolate orange. As time progresses, the patch dominates more, the initial sweetness wears off a little, and it gains more of a licorice flavour. It's not too sweet (unlike, as far as I'm concerned, Noir Patchouli by HdP, or Chanel's Coromandel). In terms of scent, it's a kissing cousin of Borneo 1834; not the same, but it may give you a rough idea. Longevity and sillage are very good. Unisex and eminently wearable.