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An interesting one from hyper-indie perfumer and BN member Olympic Orchids. It's a mix of fruits, flowers and herbs meant to symbolize a French garden, built on an amber base.
On me, it all comes together to smell like the best cough drop ever. The flowers add sweetness, while the fruits make a sort of faux-cherry smell and the herbs give everything a sort of minty, mentholated twang. It's mostly an essential oil mix at high concentration, so it never smells like a fruity floral perfume (or like Joop, which it could were it not for the natural ingredients). It's interesting, if not really my style, but the real payoff comes hours in when it dries down to a beautiful honey smell, still flavored by the fruits and herbs.
At their worst, essential oil blends can smell simultaneously cheap and overly complex. At their best, they can be a brilliant expression of a natural smell that chemicals could never recreate. In my opinion, Siam Proun fits in towards the natural expression end of that spectrum - it's never a hot mess and seems to clearly know what it wants to do. But honestly, the mentholated aspect is a little strange (though I can see how the sweet fruit mix would probably have smelled like a cheap candle without it). All in all, I'm enjoying it and the base notes are fantastic, but I'm still not totally sold. Definitely not a thumbs down, but probably not a thumbs up either, but that's just my opinion. Definitely worth a test.
23 May, 2012