I remember reading the notes list when this was launched and thinking that they seemed like a dream combination. Perhaps my fear of tampering with dreams has led to this long delay in actually trying the perfume. By now the dream has dissipated and I can smell Ambre Doré without some imaginary holy grail screeching an operatic wail of disappointment from the wings.
It’s an unconventional beauty. The opening is chocolatey richness, which makes me think there must be some patchouli in this somewhere which, combined with the styrax, gives that impression. But it quickly recedes to make way for a surprisingly feral oud – this stuff is seriously dirty old leather and runny cheese, and it’s ringed by a salty, herbal, resinous halo. From me, this draws the nostrils equivalent of a lip smack. The amber in the base is revealed slowly and it’s a proper grown up barely-sweet amber, not some sickly confection; it has the essential ambery warmth, but has the balmy quality of shoe polish that matches well with the oud, eventually enfolding it until just a residual leatheriness is all that remains of the latter. About 4 hours in it has settled into being chiefly an amber but with a strong resinous cast and a dash of rum to it. And then, late, late, late in the wear, there is that patchouli again, no longer smelling like chocolate, but blending into the ambery warmth.
Ambre Doré has a varied olfactory palette, but handles this richness well. It has medium projection so the strong personalities of some of the notes aren’t shouting at you, and the whole remains harmonious, albeit this is a harmony played on the black keys.
A favourite of many men, hazard to guess!
Salty, Leathery Amber, Herbal,Spiced stuffed with a bite of Savoury, slightly bitter Geranium and Myrrh.
With Styrax and Clary Sage it reaches the same itch spot as Vintage Bel Ami.
A Masculine celebration.
Me wants some!!!
16th November, 2016 (last edited: 09th January, 2017)
This is lovely. When it first went on, it smelt quite green and herby, but after a couple of minutes, I got a lot of the myrrh and the sandalwood. Combined with the clary sage and the agarwood (which I like ALOT) it’s a lovely combination – all of these notes play so beautifully together. After around four hours wear, it had softened into a cosy, warm, almost creamy amber scent. I don’t believe in allocating perfumes to a particular season or time (I firmly believe that if you like it, and it smells good on you, then you should enjoy it and wear it whenever and wherever you like) but I could see this being a lovely autumn or winter scent – this is so warm and soft, it brings to mind cool, crisp breezes and soft snuggly jumpers. A winner.
Nice and dirty! This is Amber and SEX!
I like this...a lot. I mean...I should finish this review, but my husband is downstairs...and...good LAWD this is nice! I really cannot think straight.
A Rose by any other name
Ambre Dore, released in the west 2012 is Soir d'Orient.
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Doré launched for the US & European market June 2012, was initially launched in 2006 exclusively for the Eastern market, as Soir D'Orient, but the current trend of oud in western perfumery has finally made way for MPG to launch Ambre Dore to the west as well as part of the collection "Les Accords Mystères". Finis.
Definitely unisex at the opening the oud is dominant, with hints, to my nose, of sour tamarind, defintely medicinal, as already covered. Thereafter in its mature phase the fragrance veers towards the feminine and many hours later a trace of Imperial Leather loiters artfully. MPG does not get enough love. The only thing that heightened appeal for Soir D'Orient was its scarcity. It has been ignored as Ambre Dore. I would put it up against Arabian Wood by Tom Ford anyday. Same strategy, marketed exclusively to Prince Ali Khan by spin doctors with degrees in advanced elephant washing.
Your loss, my gain, I've stocked up.
Pros: Collector's item?