A beautifully realized dry, woody and spiced rose perfume that unmistakeably gestures towards Arabia – one can almost hear the maqam in the background. A rare, desiccated thing, pitched just right, not smelling fusty like many oud accords do, not overwhelming in its power, the various components rising to the nostrils like a most civilized yet exotic vapour. Guerlain claim the Western debut of the Persian rose of Iran in this perfume, but equally impressive is the soft as velvet patchouli used, all combined with wood shavings, a touch of saffron, cardamom, to sophisticated effect.
Late in the wear the patchouli does become increasingly prominent as is its wont, so that this becomes similar to other rose-patchouli creations with the other elements receded somewhat. Still, a fine outing, though the ho-hum later stages do make the price point questionable.
Got to say I'm really enjoying the lush syrupy rose, saffron and oud. The opening and heart are rich for sure, but I don't find the sweetness gets to cloying levels. The drydown is transformative where everything losses density and dries off as a musty patch base dominates and fades towards the close.
Colourwise up front is all velvet burgundy with black and green streaks intensifying during the drydown. Definitely a fragrance of two dominant and diverse stages. Longevity perfectly acceptable, for me at least. All in all, good stuff, rich, decadent but with a slightly macabre ending, and all the better for it IMO.
Powdery Oud Amber Rose
Rose Nacree is fairly similar to Encens Mythique but minus the slight frankincense in it . There is also less patchouli and Rose Nacree is a bit sweeter .Yes, I know, I know, I am a philistine !
The dark rose in the opening is great- I get that sense of dark rose + oud and swirls of amber smoke and a bit of spice too . The Guerlain powder is there again .
I find it quite simple in total . This is a powdery rose with just touches *again* of the exotic. There is not enough oud to hit you over the head and not enough spice to curl your toes . Completely unisex though I suspect some men will not wear these.
So far after sampling 2 of these scents- I get the feel Guerlain wants exotic without too much edge and daring.
Less interesting than Encens Mythique but still a good quality Guerlain fragrance. Honestly, Nahema has more personality . Just sayin'.
Pros: Good quality exotic Rose
Cons: Price and availability"
When I first tried Rose Nacree du Desert I was a bit concerned that the rose blast that it opens with could be too feminine. But it turned out to be a dry rose scent, and it quickly transforms into a sweet, but not too sweet, spicy wonderful blend. The oud is there and the scent lasts for a long time with good outreach. This fragrance has made more of an impression on me than most - as I normally do not give much thoughts to a fragrance once I wear it. But with Rose Nacree I am constantly reminded of being in a Persian Garden..
There may be other fragrances with a similar combination of rose, spiciness and oud, but I am in no position to make a comparison. I just know that this perfume is wonderful.
As I understand, this is a limited release foremost for the Middle East. It is available at airports in Dubai, Doha and Beirut and possibly elsewhere in the ME and also in Paris at the Guerlain store.
01st July, 2012 (last edited: 07th July, 2012)
Rose Nacree du Desert opens with a beautiful natural rose note that approaches the best in the genre, while the oud and patchouli supporting notes both make themselves known almost immediately afterwards, creating a classic combo of the scents that seems to be everywhere nowadays. Saffron spice sits far in the background, but provides just the slightest presence to dirty up the rose a hair to finish off the key notes in this linear composition. My guess is that the scent pyramid on this page above is inaccurate, as I do not get most of the notes listed in it at all. Projection and longevity are both exceptional.
With all the recent rose patch oud releases over the past few years it is almost too easy to dismiss Rose Nacree du Desert as yet *another* "me too" scent in the super-saturated category. On first glance it is indeed treading where so many have already done so before, but while it is not going to score any points for originality or innovation, it does score soundly in the quality and execution departments. The rose note is truly beautiful and the fine oud meshes extremely well with it, combining better in my opinion than what many consider the standard in the "rose patch oud" genre, Black Aoud by Montale. I guess if you are going to be derivative, you have to do things better in order to soundly compete. The only problem with Rose Nacree is its price point. At approximately $300 for 75 ml, this is quite an expensive composition and for that kind of money you can nearly buy 100 ml of the superior Portrait of a Lady that occupies a similar space (sans the strong oud focus). While purchase of Rose Nacree du Desert is a difficult sell, if you prefer more of an oud focus to your rose patch oud combo scents than Portrait of a Lady offers and have the money, then this is a very solid release from Wasser and Guerlain deserving attention. I give Rose Nacree du Desert an excellent 4 out of 5 stars.