Mia Murza opens with a nice, earthy and dusty patchouli note, with also cocoa beans, a resinous-camphor note similar to benzoin, on a base comprising vanillin and dry woods (like birch). As minutes pass it also emerges a balsamic breeze, until it becomes quite bold and invigorating "up your nose", with pine needles and crunchy green leaves. Plus, quite a heavy spicy tone of cumin and cloves, pepper or something equally pungent and piquant, a herbal note which resembles to bay or sage, and something candied, like resinous dry fruits à la Arabie by Lutens, which I believe is given by helichrysum on spices. A peculiar earthy-spicy chypre with a candied-floral vibe but also balsamic and pungent hints, with many interesting and diverse nuances, from mysterious spicy shades to lively and invigorating "pine-forest" balsamic notes, passing through flowers, resins and soil. All notes are decently dense and deep, with a nice overall harmony. Now it surprises me to read that this scent is supposed to be composed only by a really few notes around helichrysum, part of the notes I smell are probably due to "facets" or this beautiful and perhaps underrated flower (left free to express its several natural nuances and "personalities") but partially there are sure other ingredients – also synthetic ones. However, as a scent per se, it's interesting and decently made, but also quite bold and even pungent at some points (far too much for my tastes), with a really linear evolution and a strong persistence, so not really a versatile one – better try it first.
Mia Murza does not do what it says on the tin. It's supposed to be an immortelle fragrance, but really, it’s all about patchouli. The immortelle is there—and it’s a hops-esque profile that’s showcased (immortelle can be quite mercurial depending on the form of the raw material)—but it’s far from being spotlighted. There’s a white floral at the outset that rears its head for the first thirty minutes or so, but after that it’s patchouli-fest all the way. It’s a really good patchouli all the same—earthy, thick, green; it’s not bogged down with the acrid muck that certain patchouli harvests can bring. This one’s primped and polished for show, and it displays itself well.
The line is “all natural”—which can be a massive red flag or a red herring, depending on the scent. “All natural” scents tend to perform strangely, and in many cases, their performance is over within minutes. Because of the massive patchouli, Mia Murza actually holds up quite nicely, sticking around and remaining fairly consistent following the initial white floral burn-off. While the immortelle is clearly distinguishable upon application, that’s really the only place it stands out. And so what you end up with is a scent that feels far more hippie / counterculture than that of the wilds of Corsica—which is a bit of a letdown. But if you’re shopping for a solid, streamlined, and natural patchouli, this one’s really solid as the materials themselves are lovely.
Mia Murza is a further extremely realistic (namely somewhat typically bucolic and hardly approachable) Testa Maura's release and a sheer patchouli/immortelle combo centered aroma (slightly a la CdG Luxe Patchouli, just in a less smoky but more wild/herbal way). The everlasting flower appears in here contemporary hyspid and soft, aromatic/earthy and suede/balsams veined, herbal and floral. The note of patchouli is in my opinion an absolute protagonist as enriched by musks, balsams, may be hints of suede and vegetal/floral nuances (from the note of immortelle). Weird but interesting beginning as usual for Testa Maura (the great concerns are indeed usually in the central phase with this brand under my nose). For just a couple of seconds after a first full spray on my skin I detect a flash of soft balmy patchouli immediately followed by an aromatic, alcoholic, grassy (in an almost sticky/lymphatic disturbing way) and lemony (myrtle/laurhum/thyme ostensibly centered) immortelle/bergamot agreement soon evolving in to a deep musky woodsiness mastered by a balsams/patchouli stout touch in a sort of interesting game of juxtapositions. The note of patchouli rises up progressively till when it jumps permanently on the dry down stage as the main dark, agrestic and pungent protagonist of the olfactory fatigue as supported by an anyway finally (almost) civilized note of immortelle. I have to say that the herbal/lemony vibe hardly recedes in to a more restrained level although a counteracting drier smokiness keeps finally emerging along the deep dry down (and this is the more interesting part of the evolution for sure). This is briefly Mia Murza under my profane nose, a visceral, wild and aromatic patchouli. I absolutely appreciate the real genuinity behind the brand's phylosophy but unfortunately the wildness of the genuine raw materials sometimes jeopardizes a serious level of refinement and sophistication (the genuinity is not enough since combining naturaleness and subtle refinement is the real challenge in perfumery).
Mia Murza opens with a combination of bergamot and immortelle that pretty much remains throughout the scents limited development. The combination is reminiscent of an almost slightly sparkling ginger and olive oil concoction, for lack of a better descriptor. I must say that the immortelle really has almost no resemblance to the stereotypical presentation of the note in most scents containing it. The only other primary identifiable note is a very prominent patchouli base note that also bleeds into the heart of the scent as well, remaining through the relatively brief dry-down. Projection is below average and longevity is poor.
Mia Murza is a scent I expected to really hate as I can't stand immortelle as a general rule, and its usually exhibited caramelized, almost syrupy presentation like in Eau Noir by Dior is near intolerable... That said, I love Mia Murza because the immortelle is presented in a completely atypical manner, lacking all the characteristics of the flower that I disdain so much. If I did not know it was the primary note, I would swear it wasn't present based on my prior experiences. I actually think the atypical immortelle and patchouli combination works rather well here and I thoroughly enjoyed the overall accord, regardless of whatever is behind it. My real gripe with the scent, reducing the chance of purchase is its relatively short-lived longevity of 2 hours (with the average for me being 8-10 hours). For $140 for a 50ml edp I expect much better than that, all natural ingredients or no. Still, performance and price aside I do love the smell and certainly recommend the excellent 4 star out of 5 Mia Murza as an immortelle scent for folks like me who usually dislike immortelle.
Mia Murza is supposed to be perfumer Xavier Torre's tribute to immortelle (aka helichrysum), a flower that's typical of the mediterranean island of Corsica which is Torre's homeland. All of his fragrances are supposed to be composed using 100% organic essential oils containing no petrochemicals or synthetics products. When possible, says Torre, the ingredients are sourced locally and, in any case, they have to come strictly from certified organic farming.
What Mia Murza smells like? It opens with a green bergamot note paired with immortelle. The helichrysum is devoided of most of the typical syrupy aspect and emphasized on its aromatic-woody quality. The initial accord is pretty soon joined by a remarkable amount of patchouli with just a tad of sweetness provided by labdanum. Overall, Mia Murza could make a very nice option for anyone who's usually not into immortelle-based compositions as it completely avoids the typical heavyness of most of the fragrances listing this note among their ingredients.
My only complain is that Mia Murza is more of a patchouli than a proper immortelle-centered fragrance but, that being said, it's honestly quite well blended even if a tad too simple and fast in its evolution. Projection and lasting are both average (expecially considering this is an all natural fragrance). Nice, but not particularly exciting.