Well, nothing more and nothing less than one may expect from an “oud” take on Acqua di Parma Colonia. A wannabe-posh, soapy, sheer, very smooth (and very synthetic) sort of citrus-floral-musk blend infused with a dark, rubbery, bitter yet overall quite tamed down and exceedingly artificial woody accord of oud and birch, becoming drier and muskier as hours pass. I must say that somehow, the initial “fizzy-soapy” frame which comprises the oud accord works, and makes Colonia Oud smell as a fairly pleasant sort of “bright oud” with a laundry vibe. There’s a tangy sort of citrus-geranium accord which fits in surprisingly well. Given the bitter rubbery dirtiness of the synthetic oud note, it creates quite a pleasant play of contrasts – which will eventually fade away and leave the stage mostly to rubber and synthetic woods, but until it’s there, it’s nice. Still though, even considering that, it’s all really too cheap and ultimately uninspired to sparkle some interest. The “Colonia” side is just as flat and artificial as in the Intensa version (I’m still wondering how the Colonia line can comprise gems like the Assoluta next to utter garbage like the Intensa), and the oud accord is for me nothing different from any drugstore oud accord you can find anywhere these days. The price and the “luxury” packaging would let you think we’re in the same ballpark of something like, say, Dior Leather Oud, but truth is, we’re more close to Ferrari Oud, or Versace Oud, a Montale imitation dupe or whatever other lower-key designer ouds. Just a matter of quality: flat, synthetic, as much generically refined as completely “muted”. Nothing against that class of scents by the way, but there’s a reason if they cost three or four times less than this.
Not sure why (or well, reading what I just wrote until now, I can see why actually), but at the very first sniff my mind just came out with a spontaneous association – “what an airport fragrance this is”. Out of the blue, I just imagined a mid-level manager waiting for his plane. Not a wealthy businessman snorting fine complimentary cocaine in some vip lounge, just some ordinary businessman playing with an empty cracked bottle of water, boring the hell out of himself, probably needing a shower after a two hours taxi ride to the airport. Think of focusing your nose on some details – the citrus musky cologne he wore before leaving the motel now mixing with sweat, the cheap smell of his ready-to-wear laundered suit, the rubbery smell of his trolley bag and of the airport seats, the overall sense of suspended, depressing boredom which fills such “non-places” like airports. That’s the mood of Acqua di Parma Oud, basically somehow a sort of slightly more pretentious “office scent” with a professional look (not refined, not sophisticated, just “professional”) and subtle dirtier vein. And by that I don’t mean something “sexy” , just literally dirty, sweaty and rubbery. It’s all filled with a nondescript, quite deep feeling of restrained, unemotional “nothingness”. And well, it smells a bit more cheap than it should anyway. Not blatantly cheap and not completely tragic, but definitely unworthy the price tag. Kind of similar to Indonesian Oud by Zegna (and just as much dull as that).
Acqua di Parma's Colonia Oud does for Oud what Colonia Leather does for leather--softens the main ingredient by adding some citrus, making it more year-round-appropriate. Whereas the opening was a bit harsh, this dried down into something very similar to Colonia Leather. I don't get much of a sense of the other notes--it comes off as mainly a blend of citrus, a little neroli perhaps, and the main oud aspect.
Projection and longevity are slightly weaker for the "cologne concentree"--performance was somewhat better on Colonia Leather---so the value is lost somewhat.
This rounds out the concentree trio for me, and it's a very strong group overall. It might be worth trying Colonia Oud on one arm and Colonia Leather on the other, since they end up drying down similarly. Definitely a good exploration by Acqua di Parma---Oud, Leather, and Ambra are each worth trying.
7 out of 10
One of the best Oud scents I've come across. Very complex. Starts fresh, and dries down to a dark sophisticated, gentleman's Oud scent. No doubt this is a high quality scent. Very refined and unique. The longevity is amazing, and the sillage is perfectly moderate. Acqua di Parma has impressed me with their Ingredient Collection. Oud, Leather and Ambra. All of them are excellent!
One of the best Oud scents that I have tried. Hands down beats either of the offerings from Tom Ford and at a much better price.
Opening is mostly citrus with a touch of something sweet, but within 30 minutes the Oud, spice and cedar wood kicks in and makes this fragrance ultra fantastic. It's sweeter than one might expect and not dark or as warm as some of the other Oud fragrances I have sampled. It's really elegant though, and although some reviews describe this as a synthetic oud, I can't complain at all about it. It's just a great scent.
Dry down is a slowly developing musk, but the scent retains most of the middle heart notes and stays almost the same throughout. Really good longevity, and I smelled this on my wrist and clothes 12+ hours later.
I'm no Oud expert, but this is one good scent. Big Thumbs Up.
17th September, 2015 (last edited: 18th September, 2015)
Strongest oud beats tom ford oud any day of the week.
This is not a typical oud based fragrance.
If you're into dark, rich and bitter type of oud, you have to test this because it's not like that.
I have a friend which is into oud professionally and he has been tested different type of natural oud oils and he said this is more toward combodian oud which is very smooth and oily with slightly dark aura.
At the opening I can smell a smooth, mellow sweet and oily woody aroma along with some fresh notes and some floral notes. it's kind of hard to describe because it's strange and maybe mysterious, but very smooth and watery as well!
The sweetness is warm and smells like honey.
As time passes I can smell pretty the same scent but now less oily and woody and a little more sweet and floral (rosy).
When I smell this it reminds me of a good demon! something like a hell-hound that may look scary but actually it's charming and inoffensive!
Projection is average but longevity is good. I do get around 7-8 hours longevity out of this.
Good scent but not my type of oud!