My debut review on Basenotes so bear with me!
Firstly, after much debate in the forum; Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud Concentrée is now called Acqua di Parma Colonia Oud Concentrée (without the ‘Intensa’) but with exactly the same content, no marketing stunt, just re-naming a few products to cater for new products coming in. Note, there is actually another Acqua di Parma - Intensa but not in the dark bottle family – confusing right.
AdP is a longevity BEAST! 100/100 in this area. This is actually an eau de cologne but do not let this deter you, as interestingly its longevity goes beyond most if not all EDTs and EDPs and mirrors typical properties of the higher end products - top notes die, middle notes slowly becoming more prominent etc. Because of its high concentrated oil content, AdP has the ability to cast you on fragrance journey lasting through the day, deep into the night, and can still be enjoyed on that morning walk of shame ;-)
AdP encompasses an array of citrus, leather, aromatic, woody and musky scents.
The first hour I find pleasant but possibly a little too overpowering (even with two small squirts), not ideal for the sardine tube journey to work when half of London may not wish to inhale your early morning AdP - This is definitely one for the brave. Contrary to some of the reviews beneath I actually find hours 2-3 the least pleasant, dare I say smelling old-man-ish, the citrus wears off gradually and can become borderline headache material! However, stick with it, as then, in indeed it blossoms… settles down and exposes its depth and complexity. Present is of course the base Oud, some coriander, leather, wood, spices to name a few.
AdP Oud definitely smells expensive which is admittedly reflected in the price, BUT, bang for buck it’s a winner due to its exceptional powers of longevity. 100ml would last a while trust! Also, looks good in the cabinet :-)
Advise against a blind buy due to the ‘horses for courses’ factor and its expense. Also, I've noticed like other quality fragrances, this does smell different depending on whose wearing it and the season/temperature.
Interested to hear what others think? I’m by no means an expert more like a nubie! :-D
03rd April, 2015 (last edited: 04th April, 2015)
This doesn't seem to have any oud at all upon initially spraying on skin. Starts out very fresh with a coriander and light citrus burst. The synthetic smelling oud doesn't kick in until about 30 minutes. With all that said, I think it smells great! If you are a compliment seeker, they will come wearing this.
Aqua di Parma - Oud
Funny how Oud never can seems to get its engine started, while on the other hand it manages to smell like a overheated car-engine...
Its opening is a mix of bitter-sour, paprika-green oily-like stuff, that not at any time reaches a level of attractiveness - it smells like cistus with warm rubber-plastic-metal edges to it. After that it gets slightly better with a more dry resinous-woody note, assisted by a sweet-like orange note of maybe neroli/orangeblossom, and bitter almonds that gives it a more rounder feel - but still not attractive. There is a red strawberry/raspberry note that doesn’t dress up the oud in a haut-couture kind of way, more like slutty (like a whore that applies too much, too red-colored lipstick) - before the salty and slight musty, tarry character of it comes through in a powdery and anisic-soapy fashion; still too bitter-sourish, in a unattractive kind of way. I guess, handling oud requires a focused and clever look at its partnering with other basenotes, to make it work as a whole - instead of dressing it up with fancy top- en middle-notes. In the end, Oud settles down in a nice, amyris/oudish-way with a 'fleshy'-leather touch, but you wonder why you have to go through some much noise, before hearing that clear note. I rather like smelling pure oud then Oud.
Citrus-cedar thunderclap for the first couple of minutes. Then the oud sweeps in: an extremely dry, woody and - my nose isn't incredible - synthetic oud that is surprisingly satisfying. Sharp but heavy, linear, cedar-y woods prevail at bruisinly high intensity for a good few hours. Five or six hours later, the amyris appears and things begin to soften and slip back into a citrus-incense drydown.
I found myself comparing this to Oud Wood, which is more medicinal - old-fashioned cough linctus as opposed to the more commonly encountered band-aids - and has less of the cedar note (and no citrus). Surprisingly I find I like the AdP better, though compared to the clever TF, this is a brute. It's like being pummelled by a huge Turkish masseur: not completely enjoyable but extremely efficient and you come out of the experience feeling, on balance, the better for it, hence a tentative, and bruised, thumbs-up.
The combination of citrus and oud is an interesting on one and quite original. The oud is here, however, not the usual earthy agarwood note, it is pretty good but thinner and probably meant not to overwhelm the citrus; unfortunately that gives it less depth and richness. Additionally, for most of the drydown the coriander is too predominant and the blending is not very smoothly and harmoniously done such as to give the oud a better role. All this is not really a big problem, but there is little development on my skin; silage and projection are quite good though, and the longevity is very good at over seven hours. Clearly an oud cologne combines notes that are quite contradictory - bright citrus with darker oud wood, and that is difficult to pull off. Compared to those masterpieces that did achieve this marriage of contradictions - see Creed's unrivalled citrus-leather dyad in Cuir de Russie - this really is a half-cooked dish. One point for trying though.