Private Label (2011)
    by Jovoy



    Private Label Fragrance notes

    Papyrus, Vetiver, Leather, Labdanum, Birch, Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood

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    $180.00
    100ml EdP
    $117.10*
    50ml EdP
    (*converted from GBP 70.00)

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    Showing 1 to of 6 reviews.
    positive 6 Positive Reviewsneutral No Neutral Reviews • negative No Negative Reviews

    Darvant's avatar
    Darvant
    Italy Italy

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    Superb woody/leathery potion and frankly one of the most beautiful olfactory creations I had the pleasure to test in the last two years. An incredibly hypnotic and austere dark vetiver with the entry card in the clan of my favorite obscure vetivers as Sigilli Athunis, Les Nombres d'Or Vetyver, Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie, Gianfranco Ferre For Man, Vintage Etro Vetiver, several O'driu' creations and few others. Private Label by Jovoy, in spite of the not listed oudh's presence (in its recipe), conjures me by soon more than vaguely several By Kilian Pure Oud's nuances due to a stout leather/woods/resins basic agreement. The beginning is surprising and opens soon by an almost boozy blast of resinous/damp woodiness (woods and papyrus) in a while encompassed by a sort of leather/boots polish velvety vibe of irresistible beauty and depth. I feel in this opening phase the aroma really close to Pure Oud, just Private Label appearing far less medicinal (equally smoky) and anyway more velvety and rounded. I'm sure several animalic patterns (castoreum or fur) enrich the almost liturgical intensity of the exhalations. There is a subtle burnt incense sort of undertone which probably is afforded by smoky labdanum in association with moss, birch tar, bucolic vetiver and dry sandalwood. I still detect (in the central stage) a marvellous boozy/incensey undertone which joins itself to the general leathery/rubbery silkiness. The consistency is surprisingly velvety and smooth despite the determinant presence of smoke, dry spices, dry incense and arid woods (which work as stout holy undertone uncompromising the general silkiness in an almost miracolous olfactory process of balances). Vetiver and patchouli play their central role in this marvellous orchestra enhancing darkness and soft earthiness which seem anyway to partake in a different olfactory parallel level (uncompromising the general olfactory fluidity). In particular the vetiver appears finally dark and rooty with serious conjurations about the wonderful Vetiver by Etro, dark and rooty but not utterly harsh or wild, anyway its "agricole" vibe is perfectly presenved by a dominant purified and polishing silkiness in an elevated sleight of hand by a refined olfactory craftsmanship (How can I say? May be something like...polished but not too much). The note of sandalwood is just a tiny step under vetiver in the hierarchical order, influencing the whole dry down with its deep woody starkness. (It conjures me more than vaguely the Etro Sandalo's rich spicy/dusty burnt woodiness and the Montale Dark Aoud's stark intensity though in a less arid and more leathery way). The final outcome is a really uncompromising woody/smoky leather with a vetiver notable label. This fragrance, with its hardly paralleling olfactory beauty, jumps in a second among my personal wish list top fives. Fantastic work by Jovoy.

    P.S: the profound dry down enhances the dry sandalwood in all its woodsy magnificence and the aroma becomes deeper and even more austere as a huge millenary cavern appalling in all its musty immensity.

    27 March, 2014 (Last Edited: 28 March, 2014)

    Kain's avatar
    Kain
    Iran Iran

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    Another stunning fragrance from the house which is bottle worthy for me.
    A really modern take on vetiver with extremely masculine aroma.
    I don't know why they put this in the unisex group but for me it's definitely masculine!
    This fragrance opens up with bitter herbal smell of vetiver, patchouli, some spices and some leather.
    The scent is green and herbal but bitter and dark at the same time. it's not sweet at all.
    The vetiver and patchouli notes are not earthy at the beginning. it's just dry bitter herbal smell that you can smell with a little smoky feeling from leather.
    As time goes by and in the mid, you have that smell at the opening but now the earthy nature of patchouli and vetiver shows up.
    I can clearly smell patchouli and vetiver (patchouli a little more) with their earthy aroma and there is a good support of leather to make it darker and a little smoky.
    While the opening was great, the mid is even better.
    I can smell a very weak sweetness too but it's completely in the background.
    Both projection and longevity is great.
    I will buy a bottle of this without any doubt.

    23 December, 2013

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    Probably my favorite among this line...at least so far.

    A no-compromise, extremely woody-earthy, peatchouli-vetiver concoction enriched by warm leathery undertones (castoreum?) and dry sandalwood facets. What's not to like? Absolutely assertive and straight forward. It has an overall "familiar" vibe which I can't currently put my finger on but the general feel of the composition, is of something "pushed to the limits".

    If you like unapologetic, masculine, dark-&-dry fragrances, you have to try this.

    Outstanding projection and extremely good lasting power.

    01st November, 2013

    alfarom's avatar
    alfarom
    Italy Italy

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    unapologetic beauty

    Probably my favorite among this line...at least so far.
    A no-compromise, extremely woody-earthy, peatchouli-vetiver concoction enriched by warm leathery undertones (castoreum?) and dry sandalwood facets. What's not to like? Absolutely assertive and straight forward. It has an overall "familiar" vibe which I can't currently put my finger on but the general feel of the composition, is of something "pushed to the limits".
    If you like unapologetic, masculine, dark-&-dry fragrances, you have to try this.
    Outstanding projection and extremely good lasting power.

    05 June, 2013

    drseid's avatar
    drseid
    United States United States

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    Hardcore Vetiver...

    Private Label opens with a whiff of carbon paper-like papyrus before quickly morphing into sharp woody vetiver that continues to build as the fragrance transitions to its heart phase. During the early heart, the sharp woody vetiver evolves into the sole star of the composition as it adds nutty and leathery facets with hints of lemon popping in and out from time-to-time. As it enters the late dry-down the still starring vetiver now melds with relatively dry sandalwood to soften its sharp sting as the composition slowly fades. Projection is very good and longevity is just shy of outstanding at nearly 12 hours on skin.

    Private Label is billed as a leather focused fragrance but to my nose it is much more a minimalist sharp woody vetiver with an underlying leathery vibe rather than focus. The vetiver is raw and largely untamed until the composition utilizes sandalwood late to counter the rough edges and forcefulness of the woody vetiver, allowing for a softer sendoff. Due to the unpolished nature of the vetiver used I can see Private Label being a bit polarizing where vetiver purists most likely will love it and those looking for a softer, polished presentation will be put-off. The bottom line is as a hardcore vetiver lover it's no surprise I love the 4 star out of 5 "excellent" rated Private Label and highly recommend this $180 a 100ml bottle composition to other hardcore vetiver purists for trial and prospective purchase.

    Pros: Superb sharp woody vetiver that pulls no punches.
    Cons: Could be polarizing due to its somewhat rough and unpolished nature.

    30th May, 2013

    Jamethiel's avatar
    Jamethiel
    Australia Australia

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    Absolutely fantastic

    It actually starts off with a boozy, almost rum-like scent as you put it on. But that dries down to the most austere leather-and-smoky-vetiver I have ever smelled. I would swear there's a note of old paper in there, but I may be projecting as it smells like my Grandfather's study.

    Fantastic silage, lasts well. Quite strong. I bought a sample, but I am wearing this continuously for three days and then buying it if I still like it. An absolute must-have.

    Pros: Dry, leathery vetiver
    Cons: None.

    22 May, 2013

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