Finally I've stumbled over the notorious Montale Aoud Cuir d'Arabie (one of the first Montale's qualified steps before the brand sliding down towards the abysses of the mediocre redundancy) and have to say that my general impressions do not basically differ from the main opinion down here. This fragrance is indeed simply a compelling (somewhat forbidding, vintage, elusive) oudh/leather/tobacco accord supported by decidedly influencing resinous woodsy notes and probably subtle floral nuances. The beginning is effectively brutal (medicinal, camphoraceous, slightly spicy, almost fecal-a touch civet?), I mean the leather (soon heady) collides with medicinal synthetic agarwood resins, probably a touch of saffron and with birch tar in to a sort of boisterous smokey connection conjuring me vaguely several Profumum Arso's nuances (also Torre of Tuscany Berkana jumps on mind for several of its facets). It takes a while before the raw (medicinal, spicy, almost incensey) aoud recedes and a stout rounded (tobacco veined) leather/woods accord takes the scene as veined by soft floral (somewhat soapy-rosey) accents. Effectively the dry down is smoother, animalistic, slightly aromatic and rounded, providing an elusive, leathery, decidedly virile vibe. Is like to figure in mind a cozy "brown" ambience, a leather sofà, a stale smokey atmosphere, a touch of single malt exhaling the aroma and a distinguished man (on the coach) wearing a classic barbershop aromatic lingering cologne. All of it (combined in a unique mixture) unfolds this somewhat mysterious final aroma which performs in a smoother and incredibly sexy way. Probably the one I prefer of the line together with Black Aoud, Black Musk, Aoud Lime, Aoud Flowers, Aromatic Lime and Moon Aoud.
This is something kind of different from all Montale fragrances that I've tested before with some new notes to my nose and some oldies!
The opening is definitely a challenging scent that may back you off or get your attention.
At the beginning I can smell a heavy, I'm saying it again, heavy dose of musk followed by sweet saffron and something new that many of you never smelled before called "salix aegyptiaca's blossom extract" and some darker notes.
This "salix aegyptiaca's blossom extract" is some kind of extract that using it is very common in my country for making a very famous and local beverage. it has an intense floral and kind of herbal tone which has many fans and also many haters! at the opening I can smell the scent of it beside MUSK, saffron and some leather.
The musk note as I said before is very strong and it has a dirty, sweaty and kind of animalic vibe that many of people may hate it. specially because of that sweaty part.
The sweet saffron and that salix aegyptiaca's blossom extract notes covering up the heavy musky scent and making it more pleasant but still it's challenging!
There are some darker notes specially leather to give the scent more depth and darker vibe.
If you don't like that sweaty feeling wait for about 5 minutes.
In the dry down that sweaty feeling is gone but heavy musky note does exist and dominate. now I can smell less salix aegyptiaca's blossom extract but more saffron and that dark part of the scent moves from leathery, smoky toward the dark woody (oud).
The mid is a very familiar scent to my nose only with a little bit differences.
Semi sweet and kind of heavy animalic musk, saffron, some floral notes and some oud in the background. sounds very familiar right?!
The scent didn't change in the base.
Projection is good and longevity is around 6-7 hours on my skin.
Definitely try it before buying it. not a safe blind buy at all!
Yes, don't be put off by the initial bombardment of barnyard smells. For then follow a couple hours of blissful deep quiet leather, followed by a gorgeous aoud reminiscent of Mona di Orio's (at a third of the price.)
I can appreciate this fragrance for what it is and what it is meant to be. I get the oud and I get the leather however unfortunately I also get a giant fecal note that I just can't shake from this regardless of how long I've been wearing it.
Is it a bad fragrance? Absolutely not.
Is it for me? No
Opens with a strange fecal note, that disappears almost immediately. Then A wonderful leather and warm oud unfolds with an astringent tone. A very nice fragrance, but not one to blind-buy. As with most Montale fragrances, Monster projection and longevity.
11th September, 2012 (last edited: 19th May, 2016)