Essence de Patchouli opens with a refined patchouli accord with a subtle and graceful powdery side, melancholic and nostalgic, with talcum and iris-rose notes, slightly camphoraceous, airy and really silky. All the fragrance is actually much velvety, the patchouli note is restrained, sharp, polite and "satin", much more on the dusty-sweet side (like cocoa beans) without any earthy-rooty feature. Plus the floral powdery side brilliantly makes the scent lively and romantic. Ambroxan base providing added dusty "greyness". Pleasant and sophisticated, with a discreet but long-lasting presence on skin. A bit overpriced perhaps, but nice.
This musky articulated patchouli enchanted me by soon in a couple of minutes, jumping immediately over the top levels of my ideal luxurious patchouli based fragrances dreamy parade (despite this fragrance smells on my skin pratically identical to the previous Alyssa Ashley's Essence de Patchouli). The high quality musk-labdanum-powdery iris olfactory association manages to create a soft shelter encompassing one of the most captivating rosey/boise Patchoili of the contemporary olfactory panorama. The main note morphs down finally smooth, naïf, pure and musky/chypre over a first luxuriant stage in which the royal element appears full of decadent/baroque "cristal" nuances provided by a concert of hesperides (golden bergamot and orange), exotic mild spices, hints of almost mentholated woodsy resins, plus rosewood, probably cedarwood, ethereal rose and aristocratic geranium. I suppose minimal hints of balancing dry aromatic herbs up hold steady a sense of general (musky) mildness preventing the aroma to turn finally out overly rich, warm or heavy (it happens also due the absence of vanilla or animalic notes- just a touch of amber?). The Essence de Patchouli's dry down is slightly talky/eliotropic but still in a structured, mossy and textured/spicy way. The final aroma is an airy dry potion (emanating subtle rosey nuances) actually far from the syrupy, leathery of animalic types of patchouli around and more in line with such dry and musky patchouli out there a la Villoresi or Santa Maria Novella (with vague Heritage EdT's nuances and a tad of the Etro's landmark dry/eliotropic exoticism). Absolutely velvety and silky in its final musky wake ideally conjuring Sultan Palaces and silky fairy roads. Unisex and full bodied in longevity and sillage.
09th January, 2014 (last edited: 30th May, 2014)
this house makes only masterpieces, excellent duration and sillage